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My fuel pump and rewire project

Hardonyomom

Hardonyomom

New member
So i have a 01 gtp and got the 98 venturi bucket and racetronix pump. I have figured out how to put it all back together but running the rewire is tricky. I do not have the zzp rewire which looks like cake to just connect the wires and run like a sound system through the firewall. I have the prj kit which is better but more involved.

I will post pictures here.





The correct way from what im reading and see is to run it under the car(there are 20 zip ties) (the wire has plastic shielding tube covering it)

Anyways, where does the factory wiring begin? if i can figure that out then i can snake my new wire down and start attatching it under the car. Only thing i can think of right now is to fish it behind the fuel pump toward the trunk and maybe it will drop down.
 


Here is how it looks now. I'm thinking that the factory wiring goes just behind the tank by the spare tire area but i need to look into it more. Again as always i like to post pics to help anyone out in the future that is getting the same thing done.

Cheap zzp rewire HERE (believe me! if my rewire looked liked this i would probably just run it through the top and bend the fuel pump cover a little just like everyone is saying to do but i don't have a zzp one.

zzprewire.jpg

PRJ REWIRE
prjrewire.jpg


So anyways, STOP telling me to not run it under the car. This kit was designed that way and ill make it work ( I always do, whether its myself or other sources ;)

Here is a picture showing what im looking at . the front is lifted on jacks right now, which i think may be enough if i can snake the wire past the original wire. the original wire looks like it goes to the left of the pump if you are looking at it in my direction. you can stick your hand behind the middle though and there may be an opening to get the wire down there. Im gonna use a hanger and see if it works

20150124_225614.jpg
 
Yes im probably going to end up doing it that way, kinda makes more sense when something goes wrong. (or does it) i guess i havent physically put the pump back in the car yet and reattached the new wiring kit to see if it will be a problem with the fuel cover closing all the way but im sure i can make it work. I'll be at that step in a few. Just heating up the gararge till i wanna go back out.


but it does make sense to me if i can get the wire to under the car im going to do i tthat way. ONLY question i had was where is an opening from in the car to under the car from the fuel cover. Thats it
 
10410529_10101760619456463_36924281873540534_n.jpg

this picture is of the wiring goign to the fuel pump. as you can see the stock wiring is pluged into the racetronics harness and tucked back under the body.
1383817_10101760619396583_1423374616314287606_n.jpg

this picture shows the harness plugged in and also shown is the **** zzp rewire that is abandoned in the car.
10402536_10101760619346683_6501322214514322760_n.jpg

this picture shows where the optional boost a pump plug in landed in the corner of the trunk
10432470_10101760619291793_7795134235643544757_n.jpg

this picture shows where i mounted the relay to the decklid/back seat support
10923247_10101760619196983_841521701135436777_n.jpg

this picture shows where i mounted the fuse and how power comes off the power post above the fuse block
10891519_10101760619157063_2850151850832272569_n.jpg

this is the grommet that my fuel pump harness goes through. also my 2 gauge power for my stereo stuff goes through here as well so it is plenty big. this is the stock grommet where the shifter cable goes through right behind the center of the motor. its pretty easy to get to.
 
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Should have a problem.. I ran a old ZZP rewire that way and was still able to put the cover back on.. Just take one or two of the nuts off if needed. I know you can run it underneath the car but imo.. Why risk water damage or damage from the elements or heat from the exhaust.. Rather have it underneath the carpet and not worry about it.


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Lack of relay.. Look at it its very basic.. Let's be honest it's probably fine for most people but why not pay a little bit more and grab the better racetronix one.. I ordered one awhile back should be sitting in the truck of my car back in FL.


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THANKS NEB!!!! exactly what i needed. I'm gonna run it through the top. Connectors were confusing at first but then i realized its a piggy back setup and they want you to reuse the plug that has the orange green and black wire. Ok i got this! I was just thrown off a bit when i said a GPONA thread about running it under the car. seemed simple but they never explained how they even got the wire from the top of the pump to the bottom. Thanks again guys
 
REDCOMPG said:
Lack of relay.. Look at it its very basic.. Let's be honest it's probably fine for most people but why not pay a little bit more and grab the better racetronix one.. I ordered one awhile back should be sitting in the truck of my car back in FL.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I see it has no relay but no one seems to have an issue. I'm asking because i'll be getting a rewire kit for the wife soon
 


Just felt like a better kit.. I had both even though I haven't gotten around to installing the racetronix right off the bat I could tell it looked to be of way better quality.. ZZP is what $30-35.. Racetronix is $50-55. Up to you if the $20 difference is a deal breaker. Most of us spend enough time/money on mods where it shouldn't be a deal breaker.


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yeah for 210 i got the fuel pump and rewire kit.
Here are some pictures of the project now because this case is just about closed. Neb where did you run your ground to?

20150124_222522.jpg


MAD SCIENTIST AT WORK
 
NebTurboST5 said:
10410529_10101760619456463_36924281873540534_n.jpg

this picture is of the wiring goign to the fuel pump. as you can see the stock wiring is pluged into the racetronics harness and tucked back under the body.
1383817_10101760619396583_1423374616314287606_n.jpg

this picture shows the harness plugged in and also shown is the **** zzp rewire that is abandoned in the car. ( SOOOO, you USED to have the zzp rewire and ditched it for the racetronix?) Do tell why so others know


10923247_10101760619196983_841521701135436777_n.jpg

this picture shows where i mounted the fuse and how power comes off the power post above the fuse block (WE HAVE THE SAME BATTERY)
Click to expand...
 
Hardlyaninch said:
NebTurboST5 said:
10410529_10101760619456463_36924281873540534_n.jpg

this picture is of the wiring goign to the fuel pump. as you can see the stock wiring is pluged into the racetronics harness and tucked back under the body.
1383817_10101760619396583_1423374616314287606_n.jpg

this picture shows the harness plugged in and also shown is the **** zzp rewire that is abandoned in the car. ( SOOOO, you USED to have the zzp rewire and ditched it for the racetronix?) Do tell why so others know


10923247_10101760619196983_841521701135436777_n.jpg

this picture shows where i mounted the fuse and how power comes off the power post above the fuse block (WE HAVE THE SAME BATTERY)
Click to expand...

i ditched it because it was starving my 255 pump on the dyno when i was making the pull that netted 451 horse. i was up to 12.9 to 1 afr at 6300 rpm when it should have been 11.5 like the rest of the pull. i swapped it out and havent had trouble since. basically i came to the conclusion that it was no better then stock. i didnt have any more voltage at the pump. i never checked voltage or amperage under load of the stock wiring. so im not sure its just my suspicion.
Click to expand...
 


Well i got problems. I used the 1998 bottom bucket for the venturi feed line, put in the racetronix pump, use the sleeve to go around the pump. On the 98 there is a yellow floating tube or compressed tube that fits in there ( it is NOT on the 01) goes right next to the fuel pump. I ran all the wires correctly. what i did not do was take the sending unit off of the 01 and use the same floating arm. I left that as is. Anyways, i put it all back together. turn the key over let it cycle and pump turn on for 10 seconds. did this a few times. finally turned the car on. it was slow to start because it was priming and then i had it running. ran for about 20 seconds. I shut the car off looked for leaks with the cover off. no leaks or anything.

So before i took on this project i was very low on fuel. enough to wear the DIC says LOW but the HUD didn't say it yet. I go to turn on the key with the new tank setup and it shows 1/4 full (HHHMMMMM) i go to back it out of the garage and it died on me. I started it back up managed to get it in drive, it died. Put the car in neutral where it sits now in the garage. Not sure what i can do other than get some fuel and see if 5 gallons even makes the gauge move or car start but besides the point i would like my gauge to show im emtyp when im empty. NOT 1/4 full. Let me know what you think i should do.
 
1) Pull the pump out
2) Swap your old sending unit into the bucket since you know that it is a working sending unit
3)Pull the pump assembly apart and reread the instructions. double check everything.
4)Your pump should be priming if you can hear it. If you cycled it 10 times it should have started on the first crank since you "primed" the pump 10 times essentially. If it took time to start, it is not functioning correctly, check the hose from the pump to the top of the canister, sometimes they come loose, check, the check valves in the canister at the bottom to make sure they are not dry rotted the seals, this keeps the fuel in the canister, is the venturi port/line hooked up correctly???? My guess is the canister is not filling correctly and you are running out of fuel do to the assembly not put together correctly.
 
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timboku said:
1) Pull the pump out
2) Swap your old sending unit into the bucket since you know that it is a working sending unit
3)Pull the pump assembly apart and reread the instructions. double check everything.
4)Your pump should be priming if you can hear it. If you cycled it 10 times it should have started on the first crank since you "primed" the pump 10 times essentially. If it took time to start, it is not functioning correctly, check the hose from the pump to the top of the canister, sometimes they come loose, check, the check valves in the canister at the bottom to make sure they are not dry rotted the seals, this keeps the fuel in the canister, is the venturi port/line hooked up correctly???? My guess is the canister is not filling correctly and you are running out of fuel do to the assembly not put together correctly.
Click to expand...

Thanks, im going to take it all apart again at some point today or this week.
It did take 2 seconds to start my first try and then i ran it for 30 seconds.
I did let it prime a few times before starting it.
Once it ran i let it run for about 30-45 seconds.
I then waited a few mins to finish cleaning up and was ready to pull it out of the garage
as i put it in reverse i made it about 10 feet then it ran out of fuel.
I restarted it , it ran for about 2-3 seconds and shut off.
I tried again it won't start so i got some problems here but ill take it apart and have questions later here.
 
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