Turbocharged400sbc
New member
she's big and beautiful!
...fer a tranny
4t60e (source of our 7/8ths chains....and the larger drum design similar to the new billet Sonnax 3rd drum for the 65e) behind the 4t80e
thankfully, its easy to hunt down and kill a northstar and claim its transmission for your v6.
id almost swear some buick guy at gm musta really hoped they'd turbo the 3800 and bolt the 80e behind it.
it sure looks at home...snug as a bug in a rug
i cant seem to locate my pic of the flexplate with the bellhousing mod drawn out on it and drilled for the 4 bolt 80e pattern (9 3/4" bolt circle). but i did find the other stuff with the chains and diff's. ill keep looking
OEM 80e, GMR 1" 65e, OEM 65e split chain, OEM 60e "7/8ths" chainset used as an upgrade to the 65e chains.
youll notice that the 4t80e has bearins, large bearings, lots of them. while thrust washers are still used youll find lots of torringtons and roller bearings...not to mention the two massive sprocket support bearings. also shown s the 1" driveline centerline increase to fit the massive planetary's where most of the reduction occurs.
all these bearings are quite possibly why the 80e only has ~24% losses over the 65e's 21%, despite having 4 pumps and much larger rotating mass.
try to figure out which one is the 80e FDR planetary/diff (hint: the 65e FDR planetary and diff is the small one)
in this pic you can make out the 4 bolts that hold the 80e's differential to the FDR planets.
remove diff cover, pop sump tube out (be carefull with the seal, but its magnetic so you can retrieve the seal easily and rtv it to the end of the sump tube (line it up with the marks on the tube where you can see its been chillin fer a while...)
unbolt diff, set aside (btw installing spring loaded "posi" diff like the EP or the Phantom is super easy with a bolt together diff)
pop drivers side output shaft into the side diff gear (shaft stays, gear comes off), then you can yank off the sun and planets and swap in your 2.84, 3.11, 3.48, or 3.71 FDR and toss it back together.
here's a view of the reduced head arp bolts we used to keep from removing more than a hair of metal from the counterweight. the Meziere billet flexplate doesnt have this issue.
god i miss the WhippledRiv, RIP old girl.
[video]http://vid260.photobucket.com/albums/ii10/JAWSengine-uity/whippledrivburnout-1.mp4[/video]
...fer a tranny
4t60e (source of our 7/8ths chains....and the larger drum design similar to the new billet Sonnax 3rd drum for the 65e) behind the 4t80e
thankfully, its easy to hunt down and kill a northstar and claim its transmission for your v6.
id almost swear some buick guy at gm musta really hoped they'd turbo the 3800 and bolt the 80e behind it.
it sure looks at home...snug as a bug in a rug
i cant seem to locate my pic of the flexplate with the bellhousing mod drawn out on it and drilled for the 4 bolt 80e pattern (9 3/4" bolt circle). but i did find the other stuff with the chains and diff's. ill keep looking
OEM 80e, GMR 1" 65e, OEM 65e split chain, OEM 60e "7/8ths" chainset used as an upgrade to the 65e chains.
youll notice that the 4t80e has bearins, large bearings, lots of them. while thrust washers are still used youll find lots of torringtons and roller bearings...not to mention the two massive sprocket support bearings. also shown s the 1" driveline centerline increase to fit the massive planetary's where most of the reduction occurs.
all these bearings are quite possibly why the 80e only has ~24% losses over the 65e's 21%, despite having 4 pumps and much larger rotating mass.
try to figure out which one is the 80e FDR planetary/diff (hint: the 65e FDR planetary and diff is the small one)
in this pic you can make out the 4 bolts that hold the 80e's differential to the FDR planets.
remove diff cover, pop sump tube out (be carefull with the seal, but its magnetic so you can retrieve the seal easily and rtv it to the end of the sump tube (line it up with the marks on the tube where you can see its been chillin fer a while...)
unbolt diff, set aside (btw installing spring loaded "posi" diff like the EP or the Phantom is super easy with a bolt together diff)
pop drivers side output shaft into the side diff gear (shaft stays, gear comes off), then you can yank off the sun and planets and swap in your 2.84, 3.11, 3.48, or 3.71 FDR and toss it back together.
here's a view of the reduced head arp bolts we used to keep from removing more than a hair of metal from the counterweight. the Meziere billet flexplate doesnt have this issue.
god i miss the WhippledRiv, RIP old girl.
[video]http://vid260.photobucket.com/albums/ii10/JAWSengine-uity/whippledrivburnout-1.mp4[/video]
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