Looking to buy-what to watch for.
- Thread starter kc gp
- Start date
Warhellride
New member
Transmission: Take it for a good long drive, checking both upshifts and downshifts. They should be smooth. Check under both normal acceleration and WOT. Next, cruise at about 35 MPH, then go WOT to make the transmission downshift. Look for any signs of slipping (engine speed increases, but the car doesn't go any faster). Car should take off from a stop smoothly, without any slipping or shuddering.
Leaks:
Coolant: Check under the LIM gaskets for any residue. Look for signs of a greasy residue on the windshield (left by coolant evaporating in the engine bay or from the heater core). Also look around the plastic coolant elbows (2 located on the passenger side of the engine).
Oil: Check around the valve cover gaskets, and around the oil pan.
Power steering pump: Turn the wheel from side to side while driving slowly. Listen for a whining/whirring sound.
Windows: Roll all of the windows up and down several times. If a window seems to stick, the motor could be starting to fail.
Water leaks: Check the passenger side floorboard for signs of moisture or mold. The A/C condensation drain can clog, and back up into the passenger compartment. Also, the weatherstripping under the windshield can come loose, allowing water to leak into the compartment. Both of these are easy to fix, but you don't want a car that smells of mildew from prior damage.
HVAC blower motor: Check to make sure it works on all speeds. The resistor bank that controls the speeds is prone to failure. Also, check to make sure the fan is quiet (no chirping or grinding noises which could indicate it's getting ready to failure).
OnStar: Won't work on pre-2004 cars (analog hardware no longer supported). You may be able to use this to talk the price down a little.
This is just a short list of things I can think of right now. Most of these (except for the transmission) are pretty cheap/easy to fix, and shouldn't be a reason not to buy the car. They are, however, good points to help negotiate the price down.
If you're not familiar with cars, your best bet would be to have an independent mechanic look at the car before you buy it.
Leaks:
Coolant: Check under the LIM gaskets for any residue. Look for signs of a greasy residue on the windshield (left by coolant evaporating in the engine bay or from the heater core). Also look around the plastic coolant elbows (2 located on the passenger side of the engine).
Oil: Check around the valve cover gaskets, and around the oil pan.
Power steering pump: Turn the wheel from side to side while driving slowly. Listen for a whining/whirring sound.
Windows: Roll all of the windows up and down several times. If a window seems to stick, the motor could be starting to fail.
Water leaks: Check the passenger side floorboard for signs of moisture or mold. The A/C condensation drain can clog, and back up into the passenger compartment. Also, the weatherstripping under the windshield can come loose, allowing water to leak into the compartment. Both of these are easy to fix, but you don't want a car that smells of mildew from prior damage.
HVAC blower motor: Check to make sure it works on all speeds. The resistor bank that controls the speeds is prone to failure. Also, check to make sure the fan is quiet (no chirping or grinding noises which could indicate it's getting ready to failure).
OnStar: Won't work on pre-2004 cars (analog hardware no longer supported). You may be able to use this to talk the price down a little.
This is just a short list of things I can think of right now. Most of these (except for the transmission) are pretty cheap/easy to fix, and shouldn't be a reason not to buy the car. They are, however, good points to help negotiate the price down.
If you're not familiar with cars, your best bet would be to have an independent mechanic look at the car before you buy it.
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