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Leaking Trans Fluid (by axel)

T

TDgrand

New member
Hi All,

I need help diagnosing my 2005 grand prix N/A. It has 131000 miles on it; at about 124000 miles I changed the trans filter and drained and filled with new fluid.

I am noticing on the drivers side; where the axle attaches to the transmission, some trans fluid leaking.

Is there a seal that can be replaced?
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g444/TonyD5858/DSC03742copy.jpg

Or can it leak from this area?
http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g444/TonyD5858/DSC03741copy.jpg

I slightly over filled the trans fluid when refilling :th_nervous:. It seeped a little bit before, but from an area by the pan (it has stopped now). The fluid level is full, so no significant loss. The trans slips once in a great moon into 1st and shutters from 1st to 2nd constantly.

http://s1102.photobucket.com/albums/g444/TonyD5858/
 
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There is a seal that can wear out. To replace it, you need to pull the axle out then use a puller to pry it out. The new one presses back in. Sounds like your tranny might have bigger problems than a seal though.
 
definitely sounds like the output shaft seal... as for the shudder from 1 -2 mine used to do the same thing at a low speed downshift... about a month ago I changed all the solenoids in the trans and it hasn't done it since...
 
Thanks for the help. Drove today for an hour or two, seems to be leaking more (dripping on ground).

How hard it is to replace the seal? Can I remove the drive shaft without removing strut bolts?

Whats the best way to press the seal in?


As for the solenoid: where is it located?
 
Here is a write up on the CV Shaft removal http://www.grandprixforums.net/cv_shaft_replacement.php Other than that, you need a seal removal tool, the new output shaft seal and to put the new one in a socket with the same diameter and a hammer...

Yes you have to take out the strut...

The solenoids are located inside the side cover, you basically have to drop the subframe down to have access to it, not too hard to do, it took me about 1 1/2 hours...
 
As for lowering the subframe, about how far does it need to come down? Can it be lowered to far?

I do not have an engine support bar or any type of support system. I only have jack stands and a jack (do I need anything else)?

Any additional info on doing this job would be a great help.

When I plan to lower the sub-frame, the axle will be removed for replacing the outer shaft seal. (allowing me to fully remove the side cover)

I found this information on replacing the solenoid. http://www.grandprixforums.net/hard-shifting-6979.html

Replacing the solenoid is a chore and without the right support tools it makes it worse. Here are a few steps to go by.....
- Disconnect negative battery cable
- I have an engine/trans support bar setup that stradles over the fenders and I attach this to the drivers side of the engine only for this job
- Unbolt or remove the upper dogbone mounts.
- Jack up the drivers side only and support it with jack stands
- Drain trans fluid either by pumping out of the fill tube with a fluid pump or by lowering the lower pan
-Remove drivers front wheel
-Remove dust/inspection cover over trans mount
-Remove trans mount upper nuts
-Remove power steering rack bolts
-Support drivers side frame/cradle assembly with a floor jack
-Remove drivers side front and rear cradle bolts and loosen passanger side cradle bolts
-Make sure steering rack moves freely and SLOWLY lower the jack that you have supporting the cradle.
-You may need to remove lower trans mount nuts and remove mount for more access room
-Lower down drivers side engine-trans from mentioned support bar. You can also attach an engine hoist to do this as well. The engine-trans support bars have long hooks with threaded rods on the end to raise and lower the trans which you must have to do this, otherwise an engine hoist will do.
-Remove large black metal mounting bracket from side of side cover on trans if needed
-Disconnect trans electrical connector
-Remove air box if needed for access to upper side cover bolts
-Remove all side cover bolts
 
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I jacked up my car as far as I could get it then put a jack stand on each side, then after I dropped the struts out I cut a piece of 2x6 that spanned the width of the subframe with a jack under the board and that worked perfect for lowering the subframe. You need a jack that isn't quick release, one that goes down slowly so you can control how far down you take it.

Also, IF you are going to go that route, you can do what I did and replace all of those solendoids while you are in there. Here is a link to who I bought them from off of ebay... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4T65...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories The solenoids are all name brand, AC Delco and Borg Warner... It took me about 3-4 days to get them in, and for $109, you can't beat that...
 
Thanks for the help. I have the front control arms off, since I have already been in the process of replacing the ball joints and bushings. I ended up buying the **** control arms from GM. I could not find any online for a 2005 (Dorman). I attempted to refurbish the old one's, no way.

I tried getting the axle off today with my pry bar. Seems to be only pulling on one side, which I don't think is good. Head to autozone tomorrow to rent a slide puller. Then I'll do the outer shaft seal and put the new control arms on. Any recommendations/methods for removing the axle.

As for the solenoids, those will have to come later. But I need to get rid of the shudder before it hurts the trans more.
 
You need to pry between the back of the cv axle and the trans housing, I'm not thinking that a slide hammer would do the trick, if you pull on the cv itself you will just end up pulling the knuckle out of the cv housing and pulling the boot off. just get the pry bar and pry one side, then the other, it took me about three times. It has an inside clip that has to pop out so you'll have to use some elbow grease on it...
 
Just saw this. noticed the write up was the method of needing an alignment. There is another way.

Remove the balljoint cotter pin
Remove the balljoint nut.
Disconnect the sway bar end link on that side.
Pry down on lower control arm and hit side of balljoint to jolt it free.
With axle nut already loose..pull strut/caliper backwards and slide the axle out of the wheel bearing.
Pop it out of trans.

This method doesn't require you to replace the balljoint boot or get an alignment.
 


BillBoost37 said:
Just saw this. noticed the write up was the method of needing an alignment. There is another way.

Remove the balljoint cotter pin
Remove the balljoint nut.
Disconnect the sway bar end link on that side.
Pry down on lower control arm and hit side of balljoint to jolt it free.
With axle nut already loose..pull strut/caliper backwards and slide the axle out of the wheel bearing.
Pop it out of trans.

This method doesn't require you to replace the balljoint boot or get an alignment.
Click to expand...


Wish I would have read this before taking off the strut. I marked everything, but I will most likely need an alignment.

Question: when I pull the seal, will trans fluid leak out?
 
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Sorry bud.. I've worked with a mechanic for a few too many years in my past helping out. After you've worked on them enough...you learn the least intrusive and easiest ways to do stuff.

BTW not sure who didn't have an engine support fixture. ... Pick up a 4x4 and a chain. Poof.. engine supported. :th_thumbsup-wink:
 
I just ended up using a really old pry bar to get the shaft and seal out. The passenger side was a major PITA to get out, but drivers side was like butter in and out.

iirc, there was like 1/4 cup the came out when I popped pass. side. Drivers side nothing.....?
 
So replaced the seal, ended up gouging the inside of where the seal fits.

I used a seal puller but it was shredding through the inner part of the seal. So I put a small amount of JB weld in the gouge and pressed the seal in. I know this probably isn't the right fix, but hopefully it will all hold up.

Planing on doing the solenoids after the new year. Do I have to remove the drive shaft again to to replace the solenoids. In this post http://www.grandprixforums.net/hard-shifting-6979.html it says the drive shaft does not need to be removed to get to the tcc solenoid. My understanding is that cover moves back and you can access without removing.

What would you recommend? I plan on replacing all of them like brand121 suggested.
 


Have another question, hopefully someone can answer this one. :th_scratchhead:

As I mentioned above I replaced control arms because of bad bushings and ball joint and also tie rod ends. The main reason for doing this was to try and get rid of my divers side front "vibration".

I have everything back together, torqued to spec. Rides better, but the vibration is still there.

My main questions/idea is when putting the drive shaft back on/locked, I noticed I could move the shaft up and down side to side (grabbing axle it right by trans). This movement is roughly about 1/4 of inch.


So should there be some movement/play or nothing at all? Thank you in advanced.
 
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TDgrand said:
My understanding is that cover moves back and you can access without removing.
Click to expand...

You probably can, BUT, imo it would be WAY easier to completely remove the cover bc you have to be extra careful when removing the wire harness connectors from the solenoids bc they break very easy

TDgrand said:
Have another question, hopefully someone can answer this one. :th_scratchhead:

As I mentioned above I replaced control arms because of bad bushings and ball joint and also tie rod ends. The main reason for doing this was to try and get rid of my divers side front "vibration".

I have everything back together, torqued to spec. Rides better, but the vibration is still there.

My main questions/idea is when putting the drive shaft back on/locked, I noticed I could move the shaft up and down side to side (grabbing axle it right by trans). This movement is roughly about 1/4 of inch.


So should there be some movement/play or nothing at all? Thank you in advanced.
Click to expand...

Get an alignment as stated above since you did replace all of that.

It also sounds like the axle isn't in all the way...
 
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