I need to rebuild.. Procharged???

[Quicklynx]

Hey guys,
As you all know I just bought a 98 Daytona Edition. The problem is it has 126,000 miles on it. I know these cars can run a lot more miles without problems but I want to get a build done. Problem is this car is my daily driver so long downtime isn't an option. I'm thinking of buying a block, head, maybe even a trans on the side and building them with my brother in his shop.

This wouldn't be our first project like this. We've pulled the 4G63T out of my Talon and built it, and also built a sr20det and put it in his 240sx. Those 2 engines for the most part were pretty basic. Reading the threads I've heard the L67 just plain aren't...

I may be a budget guy but even if I weren't I would prefer to do my own work because I enjoy it and get a lot more out of it.

I've read the threads about buying the manuals and stuff, and how one mistake can ruin everything. I understand that and it's even more reason why I prefer to do it myself. Also I'm pretty confident in my mechanical skills to pick something up like this and learn it.

What I'm asking though is what would be a good place to obtain the block, heads, trans??? What would be a good option block on the build and why, such as the L26 over the L67???
Any experiences with their builds would be appreciated as well???
Also what parts would be recommended??? What pistons, rods, miscallaneous parts, etc..???
Also has anyone Procharged their car??? I've been a pretty big fan of Procharging and am really curious to see how that would work on our cars.

Thanks! All advice is welcome!

 

[02BlueGT]

If money isn't super short, a L32 (series 3 motor, not to be confused withe the series of the blower) block, you don't need to open it up, stock bottom ends are very stout. port and polished heads, if you have the equip a Cam and slightly bigger valves, stronger springs, and port/ gasket match all the other engine parts.... The trannys I'm not so good with though

 

[FoSHO99]

Matt M is familiar with CSC as they did one or maybe a few at ZZP.

I'd get a L26 block. They often have lower miles being the newer types of engine and have higher compression than the L67/L32. You can tear into it and get better internals, but often is expensive and there are a few turbo 3800's pushing these stock blocks past 600hp with no problems down there. If you don't want the higher compression and run more boost instead, the L32 would be the other choice. The L36/L67 are also fine blocks to build up on, but its hard finding one with low mileage and the L26/L32 have a few upgrades, better connecting rods and such as I don't really know all of them for sure. Someone will clarify...

What are your power goals or do you want to tear into the transmission too?

 

[SyntheticShield]

Just asking, but would overall mileage be such an issue if he is going to do a complete rebuild?

You should be able to get all you need with regards to block and heads from Ed Morad. There will be some other considerations when you get to the tranny as there are some internal differences between the 97 - 03 4T65E's and the 04+ 4T65E's. That information you can find on the Triple Edge Performance website and if you have any questions about that aspect, Trannyman95 should be able to answer any you have.

 

[Quicklynx]

Thanks for the info guys! Also mileage on the block really shouldn't make a difference... I plan on replacing the internals and everything as well. It is nice to know that the stock L32 may be able to handle 600hp. That is above my goal for a daily driver so that may be the block to go with. I'd still like to have the block machined, balance shafts eliminated, etc..

I'll read up on the Transmissions. I would like to build it or get it built but I'd really like to beef it up. More than it would need to be for what I want just in case I ever feel like beefing the car up even more, it will handle it. Same with my heads and block. Thats how I did the Talon. Venolia Pistons which were rated to handle over 1000hp even though I knew I'd never need them for that much.

So Ed Morad is the guy to talk to??? I'lll look him up. Thanks guys!

 

[Quicklynx]

I'm at looking Ed Morad's ebay site and he has everything I would need. I'm curious though, is there any difference between the supercharged and non supercharged block and transmission or can I save a couple of bucks and buy the non supercharged versions??? Also do these fit right into our engine bay or do I need new mounts, fabrication, etc.???

 

[Street Wolf]

I'm at looking Ed Morad's ebay site and he has everything I would need. I'm curious though, is there any difference between the supercharged and non supercharged block and transmission or can I save a couple of bucks and buy the non supercharged versions??? Also do these fit right into our engine bay or do I need new mounts, fabrication, etc.???

Yes, the motor and trans is both different from a GT to a GTP. It all bolts up the same but a GT transmission will not hold up to any kind of power unless you upgrade it to a HD set-up which the GTP already has.

The motor on the GT is higher compression than the GTP engine, which isn't a bad thing at all really. You would just be putting out more power using the GT motor with less boost than the GTP.

 

[Sabrewings]

The non-HD trans will take plenty of power since it's fundamentally the same as the HD. The only thing you would need to be careful of are burnouts. The HD has a larger diff which takes to one-wheel burnouts a lot easier than the smaller non-HD diff. Other than the differential, they are the same.

 

[Quicklynx]

The non-HD trans will take plenty of power since it's fundamentally the same as the HD. The only thing you would need to be careful of are burnouts. The HD has a larger diff which takes to one-wheel burnouts a lot easier than the smaller non-HD diff. Other than the differential, they are the same.

So if I uprgrade the differential... it's the same transmission?!?!

 

[Sabrewings]

So if I uprgrade the differential... it's the same transmission?!?!

A little more than the differential, but once that's done then yes (strength wise). The differential, sun gear, differential housing, and output shaft are all needed to do the full conversion. The only reason the output shaft is on there is the HD one is a bit longer to fit in the HD diff right. Not a strength increase.

The only difference between a 4T65E-HD and a non-HD with the upgrade is the drive chain. Again, not a strength difference, but the gearing is different to provide a different gear ratio to the HD. It actually works out easier for non-HD owners since 3.29s only require a diff upgrade. For HD owners to get 3.29s they have to take their side cover off and swap the chain/sprockets.

 

[Quicklynx]

A little more than the differential, but once that's done then yes (strength wise). The differential, sun gear, differential housing, and output shaft are all needed to do the full conversion. The only reason the output shaft is on there is the HD one is a bit longer to fit in the HD diff right. Not a strength increase.

The only difference between a 4T65E-HD and a non-HD with the upgrade is the drive chain. Again, not a strength difference, but the gearing is different to provide a different gear ratio to the HD. It actually works out easier for non-HD owners since 3.29s only require a diff upgrade. For HD owners to get 3.29s they have to take their side cover off and swap the chain/sprockets.

Thanks I'll have to look into it. I'm thinking of maybe building the trans first. From the readings it seems the higher mileage trans have a pretty good amount of potential problems that I'd like to eliminate to the best of my ability.

Now I've never built an automatic transmission before, only reallly worked on the manual trans in my talon. Is this trans a pain to work on? Any advice?