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I hear a tapping from what I think is on of the valves..

joelee669

joelee669

New member
2000 GTP 120,000 new computer revs to 6200 I think that is too high..K&N intake, 3.25 pulley volt booster and aluminum lifters I think... but anyway I just floored it ever since now i hear a ping or a tap from what I suspect is a valve.. but the car runs pretty good kind ruff at idle.. any easy way to tell if it is or is not a valve? and about a month ago the piston hit a spark plug and i replaced all of them for a NGK colder plug
 


Hmm.

Got any more info on the mods to the car?

3.25 pulley size calls for some pretty stout mods.

IMO you may have a bigger problem than just some noisey lifters.
 
Wut?

3.25 pulley on rather stock. 6200 rpms on stock valvetrain. Aluminum lifters.

276253_papel-de-parede-meme-jackie-chan_1280x1024.jpg
 
Oh boy, I can understand your frustration joelee. It sounds like your engine is hating you... I hope you know how to install a new one. But seriously, if you're hitting plugs that usually means there is play in your bottom end. That ping you hear is probably your crank saying let me outta here to your block. Which given the mods stated, I wouldn't doubt it.
 
If you found a destroyed plug, then the piston didn't hit it. Most likely a piece of the piston that chipped off hit it.

On the lifters, if they've been replaced they could be OER Comp Cam lifters, which are known for being noisy because most people assume they will work like stock lifters and soak up a ton of space in the valvetrain area. They don't and therefore need rods properly sized to them in order to work properly.
 
I pulled the heads off and sure enough I had a cracked piston!!! FML Dropped the oil pan and pulled the piston and have a spare long block so I took a piston from that motor and installed the used piston and put it ALL back together!!! never done anything this serious on a car before!! took almost 40hrs of non-stop work on the car to wrap it all up... started right up and had to turn it right off!! serious exhaust leak, fixed the exhaust leak and the car sounded 10x worse the before i tore it apart... after doing a ton of research i thought it was a rod bearing... dropped the oil pan and turned the motor by hand until i heard the sound it was making!!!!!! FLEX PLATE WAS CRACKED!!!!! nightmare.. pulled the motor and changed the flex plate and put the motor back and she started right up, exhaust leak again, fix that check engine light on... pulled the engine harness out and patched and repaired all the crappy wires, no more check engine light.. YAY now the car has a pretty decent vibration when accelerating or when holding the brake and the car in drive with the RPMs at 1500 it is very noticeable shakes the mirrors and such!!! and when i first accelerate it kinda feels like something is sticking like a brake then it goes away and i get a vibration only when i accelerate slowly, but nothing when i accelerate fast!!! I know i prob. put too much info but any help would be great!!!

But i must say doing all this work was SOOO much fun to me!!! it just felt great to be able to tear apart a motor and bring it back to life!! just hope i can find the cause of the vibration!! thanks again
 


you should have just swapped the other block in the car, swapping one piston does not work well most of the time, because the crank is worn.
 
yes it is stock exhaust
i have another supercharger with the stock pulley should i just swap it and see what happens?
 
i do have a misfire code and the check engine light is on again and i put the stock rockers from my other engine in this car
 
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There was grease from the passenger side cv on the sub frame that was never there before so i don't know if that has anything to do with it
 


No it doesn't, but you now have a frankensteined bottom end, with a 3.2 pulley on it. If you haven't chipped another piston yet, you will. I hope you installed NEW rod bolts when you installed that piston as they are not reuseable (TTY).

Get that 3.2 off there and put the stocker back on. Give us the misfire code(s), and any other codes its throwing. The misfire is probably what's holding it back. Is the CEL flashing when it is feeling sluggish? If so that is a good indication of a catalyst damaging misfire is occuring (I.E.- get out of the gas!!). You should also be running copper plugs in it, NO platinums. Oh, and be sure to run 91+ octane in it at all times.
 
P0134,P0135,P0300, (P1380,P1571) no longer there since fixed the wire. I will change the supercharger tomorrow to my stock one, and why copper plugs? i checked all the plugs today and there is one that you can tell looks like something is going on with that cylinder. CEL not flashing but all the lights are dimming and going back to normal when it is idling, i did reuse the rod bolts!!! well looks like i am pulling the oil pan off again for the 3rd time!!! with the motor still in the car truly sucks!!! i checked the injectors with an ohm meter all good there.. the spark plug wires seem ok, i have always run 91+
 
Right after you swapped a flex..you got the vibration. The vibration you describe ...is it there at idle?

I think I took this vid with the car still on jackstands. The camera didn't do the reality of the vibration justice.


What happened when I had removed and put the flex back on was that I started all the bolts with my fingers a couple of threads. Then I zipped them in with a baby airgun. (ball less). The flex was actually 180* off.

I marked the flex and crank.
IMG_1710.jpg


And upon repositioning .. found I could also line up the holes 180 from where it was
IMG_1708.jpg


The one bolt is only off from the rest by a little bit. It is possible to get the flex bolted up with it 180 off. Which is why I now put those bolts in completely by hand.
 
I don't have the vibration at idle.. just the misfire, the vibration in only in drive with foot on the brake and bringing the rpms up to ruffly 2k, but does not do it with the car in reverse, and when i first take off it feels like something sticks and the it vibrates with slight acceleration but not with heavy acceleration!!!! I am positive that i put the flex plate back in the same spot as when i took it out, put all the bolts in first by hand then in three stages torqued them down...

I don't know if it helps but the car is burning gas like crazy ruffly 14mpg
 
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If it's overfueling then it sounds like you have either a huge vac leak, a bad MAF, or possibly a air leak between the air intake box and the S/C letting unmetered air in after the MAF.

It's too early for me to look up code descriptions, lol... What cylinder seems to be having the issue since the plug looks odd?

And as far as the rod bolt goes, it may work but I dunno. Never tried it. Just always read/heard that they should be changed w/ new ones when removed. Bill or someone may be able to shed some light on that one. Not trying to make you do extra work but then again don't want to see the bottom end come apart again, ya know?
 


cylinder #2, i checked all of the vac lines and all were replaced 3 months ago with silicone lines and they are all good.. i pulled them of 1 at a time to see how much it affected the idle but nothing made it better.. knew it wouldn't but couldn't hurt to try.. well i could care less if the bottom end falls out i have a spare and it would be a good excuse to build a motor the right way.. just want to get this running right... didn't get the chance to change the supercharger today, but did drive it and noticed that when i am coasting the car idle is perfect... but sitting still it is at almost 1k RPM and jumps around...
 
I need some help I've had a misfire for a while and was pretty sure it was because i torqued the rocker arm wrong or something...
now the book says tighten to 11ft-lbs +90degrees, but what i want to know do i have to have the valve all to the way open, or all the way closed? I did it with the valves all the way open, car ran ok could idle lower but it have been like that for a while. took it for a test drive runs good no misfire pulls real hard... on the way back just cruising i think now i have a valve tick.. or exhaust leak but leaning towards a tick... i just want to know the proper way to torque the rocker arms? thank you
 
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