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How to tell if CV halfshafts bad?

brettstoner

brettstoner

New member
I am working on a top swap for my 04 GP GT with 85k miles. I pulled the axles and the left one has a little more play on the inner cv joint then the right. Makes a clicking sound when I twist the inner joint. I am debating on whether to replace both with new Cardone axles or reinstall my old ones. No boots are torn. No sign of grease leaking.

Is there a bench test to determine whether or not to replace half shafts?

Are new Cardone half shafts as good quality as 12 yr old OEM 85k? I don't paying the $110 for new ones if it means they will last.
 


[TABLE="width: 450"]
[TR]
[TD]Symptom[/TD]
[TD="width: 33%"]Condition[/TD]
[TD="width: 34%"]Solution[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Vibration that increases with speed or kicks in at different speeds[/TD]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Excessive play in the inner or outer joints or a bent driveshaft[/TD]
[TD="width: 34%, align: left"]Replace worn shaft assembly[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Clunking noise when engaging automatic transmission.[/TD]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Worn inner or outer joints.[/TD]
[TD="width: 34%, align: left"]Replace worn shaft assembly.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Continuous knock at low speed[/TD]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Indicates a worn CV joint[/TD]
[TD="width: 34%, align: left"]Replace worn assembly.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Continuous humming or growling noise.[/TD]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Inadequate lubrication on inner or outer joints (check boots for leaks). May also be worn gears or wheel bearings.[/TD]
[TD="width: 34%, align: left"]Inspect CV joint - replace necessary.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Clunking noise during acceleration or deceleration.[/TD]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Worn inboard joint or differential problem in the transaxle.[/TD]
[TD="width: 34%, align: left"]replace worn shaft assembly or repair transaxle as necessary.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Clicking or popping noise.[/TD]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Worn outer joint.[/TD]
[TD="width: 34%, align: left"]Replace worn shaft assembly.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Shudder while acceleration or deceleration.[/TD]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Worn inner CV joint.[/TD]
[TD="width: 34%, align: left"]Replace worn shaft assembly.[/TD]
[/TR]
[TR]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Cyclic vibration.[/TD]
[TD="width: 33%, align: left"]Worn inner tripod CV joint.[/TD]
[TD="width: 34%, align: left"]Replace worn shaft assembly.[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]

​

Here is some information that may help others out.....

 
Last edited:
Mine pops/clicks when I go from park to reverse or drive. Already replaced the wheel bearing (7? times). and just replaced the axle a few weeks ago. Still happens.
 
If you hear any noise or any resistance, change them. Cardone is fine as a mfg, but any mfg can send out crappy product.
 
buck531 said:
Mine pops/clicks when I go from park to reverse or drive. Already replaced the wheel bearing (7? times). and just replaced the axle a few weeks ago. Still happens.
Click to expand...


lower mounts could be bad, watch the engine shifting it in and out of gear, see how much it moves. should only move a inch or 2.
 
Scottydoggs said:
lower mounts could be bad, watch the engine shifting it in and out of gear, see how much it moves. should only move a inch or 2.
Click to expand...

Mounts are brand new. The motor doesn't move at all. It's clicking from the hub. I've always had issues since I replaced the passenger front hub 5-6 years ago.
 


id watch the axle shaft as its shifted in and out of gear, hold on to it too, that way you can feel and hear it click to narrow it down, you may also see the tranny side shaft turn and the hub side not. indicating a sloppy cv joint.
 
out of car i hold the shaft in a vise, put tq on the inner and plunge it in and out to feel for a "wear ramp" usually on the accel side. then i check radial and axial play.

outer i move through its range of motion while checking backlash.

ive felt tight OEM's to 50kish, usually good to 100k, right side always seems worse, right hand turns are often the tightest and its the wheel with the most potholes on most roads.

ive felt play in new "aftermarket" cv's that just plain got silly bad by 20k.
beware aftermarkets with the round inner tripod housings....you want to see 3 lobes like the OEM powdered metal "forgings"....otherwise the inner tripod is about the size of a honda's....and we make far more Tq with far heavier cars...

all you finicky/ocd ****ers should probably be snagging CV's from newer W's in the yards....
 
Here's the video I took years ago. Wait for it..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q584X7zbSa0

I've noticed that if I use my impact to put on the axle nut it will make the popping sound. If I use my torque wrench and do it nut by hand it didn't do it. but then starts again later.

Changing the wheel hub fixed it for about a month and then it came back. The pop above is going from park to reverse. Or even park to drive. Anything from park to any gear does it.
 
I ended up ordering new Cardone halfshafts. Napa halfshafts are also made by Cardone FYI. The new halfshafts are much tighter, less play, and no noise. It was worth it to change them at 85k miles.
 
Are they remans? I just bought a pair to replace my originals that had 167k only installed driver side so far but what a difference
 


he said new cardones.

I put a new cardone in the gf's car and she loves it. I went with new because cardone is having issues with balancing remans lately.
 
I still can't figure out my popping noise. I might take off the wheel and pull the nut on the axle and throw the impact back on it. Frustrating every time I go from park to reverse or drive. Feels like something is going to snap in the trans.
 
Interesting. I know when I looked last time they were fine. I've never had the LCA off or anything since I've owned it. This happened immediately after replacing the hub.
 
Worth looking at and double checking those and the strut bushing, tie rod too it'll give you peace of mind that those are secure at the least. If noise is not gone after installing new hub it could be the axle like Scotty mentioned
 


It's not the axle. It's brand new. The other one did it too. I'll swap the hub again but it's going to do the same thing eventually.
 
how corroded are your knuckles? Cleaning away the corrosion on some of the ones I've worked on the bearing is not supported by the register anymore and only by the bolts. that means the bearings and the three bolt housing can deflect
 
Honestly they're not that bad. If I get around to it i'll pop off the wheel/hub and take a look this weekend.

Also when I took off the bearing the last time there was no play in it.. very smooth. It was less than a year old. My other one is nearly perfect too. Normally it would only do it in from park to reverse but now when I back into my spot at work it'll pop when going from Drive to reverse too.
 
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