Booba5185
New member
Hey everyone,
In this write up I'll be showing you how to clean and rebuild your injectors. I had to pull mine during my L32 swap, so I figured why not rebuild them? The process is very simple, but you'll need to let the injectors soak over night or more.
Parts:
Canned air or an Air Compressor
This Kit, or something similar
A vice
Vice Gripps
A drywall or machine screw
A bottle of B12 Injector Cleaner
A pot to soak the injectors in
Okay, so to get started, pull your Injectors. If you don't know how to do this, look it up or consult your Haynes Manual. Next, screw your screw into the top of your injector, like this:
Screw it in a little bit, but not too far, you just want the screw to grip the screen so you can pull it out, like this:
Now if your injectors are stubborn like mine were, the screens won't want to come out. At that point, I put my injectors in the vice. Now do NOT TIGHTEN THE VICE THAT MUCH you only want the vice to support the weight of the injector, so it doesn't fall after you pull the screen out. The injector has ridges on the side that will keep it from sliding up in the vice when you tug up and pull the screen out:
Old screen removed:
Then pull the bottom pintle cap off of the injector, along with the o-rings, so you'll have this:
Do this to all of your injectors, and soak them in the B12 over night. The next day, blow the injectors out, I used my air compressor, but canned air would work. If you have a spare injector pigtail laying around you can "back wash" the injector. Connect the injector pigtail to the injector, then go over to your truck\car battery. Have a helper hold the injector (pointed AWAY from the battery) with your canned air\blower nozzle on your air compressor blowing on the bottom (engine side) of the injector while you connect one wire to ground and one wire to the (+) of the battery (doesn't matter which wire goes where). I don't leave the injector connected to power, I just tap one of the wires on ground so it only turns the injector on momentarily, the injector doesn't stay on. Your helper should feel the injector "click" every time you tap the wire to ground.
Once all the injectors are clean, reassembly begins. Take your new screens out and set them in the end of the injectors. Like this:
Now you'll be putting your injector into the vice horizontally, and gently closing the vice until the screen is pressed into the injector, again, you will NOT tighten the vice down:
After you put new screens in all of your injectors, put new o-rings on both sides, and snap the new pintle cap on the bottom of the injectors. There are a few different styles of caps in the kit, but there is one that matches the stock style. Here's all 6 of mine done:
That's it, you are done! Now you just have to put them back on your engine , remember dip your finger in engine oil and lube up the O-rings before you install the injectors!
In this write up I'll be showing you how to clean and rebuild your injectors. I had to pull mine during my L32 swap, so I figured why not rebuild them? The process is very simple, but you'll need to let the injectors soak over night or more.
Parts:
Canned air or an Air Compressor
This Kit, or something similar
A vice
Vice Gripps
A drywall or machine screw
A bottle of B12 Injector Cleaner
A pot to soak the injectors in
Okay, so to get started, pull your Injectors. If you don't know how to do this, look it up or consult your Haynes Manual. Next, screw your screw into the top of your injector, like this:
Screw it in a little bit, but not too far, you just want the screw to grip the screen so you can pull it out, like this:
Now if your injectors are stubborn like mine were, the screens won't want to come out. At that point, I put my injectors in the vice. Now do NOT TIGHTEN THE VICE THAT MUCH you only want the vice to support the weight of the injector, so it doesn't fall after you pull the screen out. The injector has ridges on the side that will keep it from sliding up in the vice when you tug up and pull the screen out:
Old screen removed:
Then pull the bottom pintle cap off of the injector, along with the o-rings, so you'll have this:
Do this to all of your injectors, and soak them in the B12 over night. The next day, blow the injectors out, I used my air compressor, but canned air would work. If you have a spare injector pigtail laying around you can "back wash" the injector. Connect the injector pigtail to the injector, then go over to your truck\car battery. Have a helper hold the injector (pointed AWAY from the battery) with your canned air\blower nozzle on your air compressor blowing on the bottom (engine side) of the injector while you connect one wire to ground and one wire to the (+) of the battery (doesn't matter which wire goes where). I don't leave the injector connected to power, I just tap one of the wires on ground so it only turns the injector on momentarily, the injector doesn't stay on. Your helper should feel the injector "click" every time you tap the wire to ground.
Once all the injectors are clean, reassembly begins. Take your new screens out and set them in the end of the injectors. Like this:
Now you'll be putting your injector into the vice horizontally, and gently closing the vice until the screen is pressed into the injector, again, you will NOT tighten the vice down:
After you put new screens in all of your injectors, put new o-rings on both sides, and snap the new pintle cap on the bottom of the injectors. There are a few different styles of caps in the kit, but there is one that matches the stock style. Here's all 6 of mine done:
That's it, you are done! Now you just have to put them back on your engine , remember dip your finger in engine oil and lube up the O-rings before you install the injectors!
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