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how to change the plugs!?!?!

L

loganrick

New member
okay i can get at the front 3 plugs but how in the world do you get at the back ones? ive heard you can remove the motor mounts and "rock" the motor forward but im not sure how to do this or if its safe. i have a misfire problem so im changing the plugs wires and coil packs but need to get these plugs out first

2002 GTP
173k
 


You can remove the engine pull brackets, and relocate several other accessories to get an easier reach at bank 2's plugs.
Honestly, I don't even need to remove the upper engine mounts or move the engine.
I change my rear plugs with my strut tower brace still right in the way.
 
Easiest way if you really want some room is to take the two dog bones loose and get a ratchet strap and hook somewhere on the back of the motor and somewhere on the radiator support and ratchet til you have enough.
 
loganrick said:
okay i can get at the front 3 plugs but how in the world do you get at the back ones? ive heard you can remove the motor mounts and "rock" the motor forward but im not sure how to do this or if its safe. i have a misfire problem so im changing the plugs wires and coil packs but need to get these plugs out first

2002 GTP
173k
Click to expand...
Actually, not that any advice has been wrong, but the easiest way to “rock” the engine forward is take the bolts out of the two dog bones. Pull the engine forward just using your hand. Then here is the trick GM made just for you. If you notice the engine mount has an extra little area that you can re-insert the bolt (to hold the engine forward) and wham bam thank you mamma no strap needed.:cool: If you do it the way GM intended you won’t hurt a thing, and changing your plugs will be a bit easier.

Do yourself a favor and only replace one “piece” at a time. You would be amazed how many ppl come on here desperate because they messed up the plug wire routing.

 
cerick08GP said:
Actually, not that any advice has been wrong, but the easiest way to “rock” the engine forward is take the bolts out of the two dog bones. Pull the engine forward just using your hand. Then here is the trick GM made just for you. If you notice the engine mount has an extra little area that you can re-insert the bolt (to hold the engine forward) and wham bam thank you mamma no strap needed.:cool: If you do it the way GM intended you won’t hurt a thing, and changing your plugs will be a bit easier.

Do yourself a favor and only replace one “piece” at a time. You would be amazed how many ppl come on here desperate because they messed up the plug wire routing.
Click to expand...

Very good info. right now my L36 doesnt have the topswap on yet, but i have had no problems changing plugs back there. i do pull the STB for more access though. then again the engine bay is a little diff on the 1.5 Gen Wbody vs the 2nd gen Wbody most have here. i noticed that starters are a pain to pull vs on my Monte. the GP's lower radiator skirt blocked the bolts on the starter. my Z it was so easy. but back to the plugs... i would suggest knowing where each wire goes esp if it is a new to you car. tear it all apart and put it together correctly.
 
I just unbolt the dog bones, rock the car back and forth hit the parking brake when the engine is as forward as it will go safely. You'll have plenty of room to work. Even more if you have headers and some of the crap in the rear removed.
 


just squeeze your hand back there and do it by feel it would be handy to have a magnet on a stick to get the plugs out after you loosen them, it will take some time (like 2 hours if you take your time) but its doable
 
jdmgtp said:
I just unbolt the dog bones, rock the car back and forth hit the parking brake when the engine is as forward as it will go safely. You'll have plenty of room to work. Even more if you have headers and some of the crap in the rear removed.
Click to expand...
^ x2
 
I dont really have a problem with the plugs. The hardest one is #6 of course. The little trick is to put the socket on the plug then put the rachet on, no need to take the O2 off if you do it that way. It usually takes me ~20 minutes to do them.
 
I fail to understand when there are those who think changing the plugs to be difficult, try to make it easier by adding more work such as taking the engine mounts apart, etc., that time spent would complete the plug job if uninterrupted. Just my $.02...

If you're planning to do your own plugs invest in a swivel head for your ratchet and a PLUG socket that has the rubber grommet inside that holds the plug. Those two things will make the plug removal and replacement easier. Other than that just have some patience especially if they've been on there a while and the plug boots are stuck, they will break free with some elbow grease. Talking about grease, don't forget to use some dialectic grease on the plugs and coils when you put everything back. It will keep everything easy next time ;)

Regards & Happy New Year!
:)
 


coolone said:
I fail to understand when there are those who think changing the plugs to be difficult, try to make it easier by adding more work such as taking the engine mounts apart, etc., that time spent would complete the plug job if uninterrupted. Just my $.02...

If you're planning to do your own plugs invest in a swivel head for your ratchet and a PLUG socket that has the rubber grommet inside that holds the plug. Those two things will make the plug removal and replacement easier. Other than that just have some patience especially if they've been on there a while and the plug boots are stuck, they will break free with some elbow grease. Talking about grease, don't forget to use some dialectic grease on the plugs and coils when you put everything back. It will keep everything easy next time ;)

Regards & Happy New Year!
:)
Click to expand...


it's takes two seconds to pull the dog bones out.
 
Swivel helps getting the wrench back there. A lot of us just shove our hands back there and get the job done. Matter of preference.

Chances are, stock coils are fine. If you're putting on MSDs... we generally recommend against it here.
 
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