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how do i bleed air out of coolant system?

hardrocrick

New member
i dont know what to do to keep my temp normal, i have replaced the thermostat, radiator, hoses, temp sensor, fan relays, fuses, flushed system, new rad cap. my fans work on low when ac is turned on, my temp runs at 210 until i get in traffic and then it creeps up and the temp light comes on. the fans never kick on unless ac is on. does anyone know the proper way to bleed air out of system? does anyone know anymore things i can try to get the fans to kick on? thanks
 


hm, not sure about the fan issue. but if you want to bleed your coolant, simply remove the radiator cap, and look on top of the elbow inlet on your LIM and the hose is, and loosen the bleeder screw until u haz coolant pouring out.
 
i dont think that air is your prolblem but anyways,
just take the cap off and run it a while, (in park not drive),
if theres air youll see/hear bubbles in the filler neck
 
I don't know what the fan's are controlled by i'd assume the pcm, but if they are not kicking on it could be your coolant temp sensor i don't really know but one thing to check. The way to bleed the systems on these cars is really easy, get it warmed up and locate the upper rad hose and there will be a brass bleeder, take a 5/16" wrench and turn the bleeder til rad fluid comes out. then its good
 
et guys, il try bleeding it again. i did it the last time with the cap on and it let air then coolant then air then coolant. i filled it up and let it run until it statrting pushing coolant out the neck and then i put the cap on and tryed bleeding it. il try bleeding it this time with the cap off, thanks
 


yeah, i usually have to put the cap on mine too because it runs right over, the main thing is opening the bleeder valve.
 
got it bleed, my fan problem was the relay i bought at autozone a week ago. they replaced it and know it is fine. the fans come on high at abought 230 which seems high but it cools back to around 200 as soon as they kick on. i noticed coming home i have cool air not cold with ac on on drivers side and hot air on pass side, does anybody no whats up with that? thanks
 
lawd, an entirely new problem lol. that would be the blend door actuator most likely, you can look more into that if you like. or it could be low freon, both give the same symptoms.
but with freon, i noticed that the driver side got warmer first, then the passenger side.
 
hey thanks again, it was low on freon. im thinking about selling this cl ar, i have spent alot of money and time on this car and it know has no problems anymore. i bought a new 2 dr gtp in 99 and this one runs as strong as the new one ever did, when i bought this car i knew i wanted a 2 door but they are not alot of them around here. i have now located one so im going to try and sell the one i have for what i have in it, if it doesnt bring my money back il just keep it. so if you know anyone looking for a good car with a lot of new parts i have it, i have 3875 in it so thats what i need,thanks:)
 
hey thanks again, it was low on freon. im thinking about selling this cl ar, i have spent alot of money and time on this car and it know has no problems anymore. i bought a new 2 dr gtp in 99 and this one runs as strong as the new one ever did, when i bought this car i knew i wanted a 2 door but they are not alot of them around here. i have now located one so im going to try and sell the one i have for what i have in it, if it doesnt bring my money back il just keep it. so if you know anyone looking for a good car with a lot of new parts i have it, i have 3875 in it so thats what i need,thanks:)

im confused. you have two GPs, but want to sell one? or you just want to sell the GP you have because it had a problem or two?
 


ohh okay. i thought you were saying because you had these measly little issues you were gonna sell it. i was about to say...
 
i got all the issues fixed, i just wished it was a 2dr. i know when or if i buy the 2 dr im looking at il have to do alot of new parts as i did this one. my 4 dr runs stronger than the 2 dr, there both stock. it acts somewhat like my 4 dr did when i first bought it. i replaced the wires with msd's, new ac irum plugs, new maf sensor, new tps, cleaned tb and new gasket, new pvc, new gates belts, new t-stat and gasket, flushed system and new anti-freeze, new rad hoses, new rad and cap, 5-30 oil and ac filter, new motor mount and trans mount, new battery, new fan relays, new fuel filter, seafoamed twice, new brake light switch, fixed hud, fixed light in raido, new master power window switch, fliped dog bones, new cerami brake pad and new rotors and painted calipers at all 4 coners, added 2 cans of freon and air blows at 40 degs coming out of vents, new cts, new stock air filter, [have new 9 inch k&n to go with car], replaced tranmission filter with ac delco and delco fluid[ trans shifts great], the is a black 4 dr with torks and fully loaded and all buttons work properly, it has a crack in the windsheild on the pass side from bottom to top[ one line crack], the coupler is starting to rattle which i wil fix as soon as i get the parts, this is all i can think of at the moment as im sure im forgetting things ive replaced, i have cod from hell and some of these things could have waited but its been fun working on the car, all new silverbright bulbs and ect lol. thanks
 
well, if you have done all of that, and the car is in great shape, KEEP IT. don't rid it just cus u want different doors. its hard to keep a GP up to par to our standards anyway. sooo, keep it :)
 


yea i enjoy working on sc or turbo cars, i never worked on the new one i bought. since it got totalled in 2000 i have had 2 gn buicks, ending up having to sell them and now there to costly as i have a 2 year old son at age 49, in the future i would love to mod one of this cars. i had my gn running 10/90's when i sold it, it was a 4 year project and loved every minute of it. is your car modded?
 
lolz nope. all i have is a cone intake. my finances took a dump after i got this gtp. and when it rolled 100k, everything broke...and still breaking :p lol
 
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