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Hissing noise after shut off

M

michael redmon

New member
Pulled into the garage and after shutting off the engine I heard a loud hissing noise. I assumed I ran over a screw or something in the garage and was getting a flat tire. I jumped out and it it coming from under/near the driver side front underneath/near the air filter. I say near because I spent 30 minutes trying to pinpoint the hissing noise. At one point I thought for sure it was on the radiator but then I was thinking freon leak. Heck, I really dont know. All I know is this:

1. hissed for 60 minutes, was hissing when I walked into the house just now
2. I dont appear to be losing any coolant (I checked radiator and plus there wasnt any leaking anywhere that I saw)
3. The air conditioner is still working like a champ.

I am going with freon leak and that my air conditioning will probably not be working tomorrow. If it is still working tomorrow, any ideas WTF it could be?

I can fix almost anything IF I know what it is but a lot of the time I not sure and in this case I have no idea!

Thanks!
 


AC is what immediately comes to mind for me, but if it's leaking fast enough for an audible hissing for an hour, I don't think your a.c. would still work. Tire seems a more likely choice, take a pressure gauge to them, if it's been hissing for an hour the pressure would've dropped.
 
Leaking ac line next to radiator on drivers side. Its the line that goes from condensor to evaporator. Looks like a pain in the butt to access. Is something a DIYer can tackle? Or should I just park this baby when it is hot outside (I live in Ohio so thats only a few months anyways.)

Thanks
 
Is it from the condenser to the accumulator/drier, or from the accumulator to the evap coil? IIRC they are 2 separate lines, but it's been a minute since I've looked one so I could be wrong.
 
I went to the junkyard​ and ripped similar car apart. It's the condenser. I could change it might self (I just practiced at the junkyard!) But 2 issues that seemed like a pain.
1. I couldn't figure out how to get the air box out. Ended up cutting the wires connected to the box. Obviously can't use that method with my own car.
2. Radiator came out but condenser was "stuck" in place. No bolts so I just pryed it out. Obviously can't do that on my own car.

Anyways, going to price for a local shop to do it. I don't mind spending the money but always worry they will screw something else up in the process...i.e. put a hole in my radiator

Thanks
 
I can get both a radiator and condenser on EBAY new for $100. Thinking of just replacing both at the same time. Now I am worried about getting the transmission line off the radiator. Any tips other than soaking the nut first in PB Blaster?
Happy Easter!
 


they do sell a tool to avoid removing the clips. if you do pull the clips, do not loose them. put the clips in the new radiator and then push the line in through the clip till it clicks, give a firm tug on the line to be sure its locked in place.
 
Well got.the new condenser in the mail today. Put it in without taking radiator out. Kind easy so far except the stock condenser has rubber supports on top and on bottom. The new condenser has a different shape on top and bottom with metal supports. I was able.to jam the top rubber supports in but couldn't do the top and bottom rubber supports. Anyone else run into this issue? Thanks
 


Tips on condenser and drier replacement. Definitely do not have to remove Radiator. I would suggest not buying the $50 aftermarket condenser off eBay. The connection point wasn't the same as the stock condenser and it was a bear connecting everything. Also the aftermarket condenser had metal supports instead of being able to use the stock rubber. An oring leaked but that was my fault. I could have choosen a tight one or a loose one and went loose.
 
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