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Help with LC-1 Wideband wiring

JoRoW99

JoRoW99

New member
Ok so i cant get this thing to work. I spliced the colored power wire into the cigarette lighter in the cabin, Im pretty sure thats getting power because it sparked when it touched the fuel rail and it also blew a fuse (which i replaced) I have the white and blue ground wires twisted together and grounded to the LIM (Is it supposed to be like that, or should they each be grounded separately?) Then I had the yellow analog 2 wire connected to the middle brown wire into the EGR and my scanner showed 7.4 afr when it was running. I also tried attaching the gauge to the yellow wire and it just blinked 7.4 also. The black calibration wire has power too since it will light up the LED. In the scanner I have the custom PID setup as PID.2811/(5/15.04)+7.35 so since its reading around 7.4 I assume this means the analog out is 0v. Oh and I know the red switched power works also because I hooked the gauge up to it and it lit up. Im kind of guessing my unit or sensor is bad, which sucks. Am I doing something obviously wrong?
 


Let's step back a second.

What is it you are having trouble with. Sounds like you might be wiring it through an EGR?
What gauge are you using?
Which wire are you using to base the custom pid off?
Did you program the outputs from the LC-1 or leave them with the original settings?
Did you buy this new?
 
Just to throw this in there, I tried hooking one up in my car and couldn't get the damn thing to work properly even with everything hooked up right, I tried different grounds and power sources and it never worked. I read about them later and found out they're a huge pain in the ass to setup.
 
Bill:
I was trying to wire it though the EGR. I figured out now that the middle wire (brown) is not the right one, but it doesnt work with the gauge either.

Im using a DB digital Air/Fuel gauge from innovate motorsports.

Well i was using the middle wire from the egr but i feel like that isnt right anymore, I need to get the gauge to show right first because then Ill know the sensor/controller is working

I left the settings original

I bought it used from Explicit Spade


The manual says this about the controller"
red wire to 12v switched power - I have it spliced into the cigarette lighter in the cabin, I know this has power.
"blue and white wires should be grounded to the same ground source. Optimally, these will be soldered to the same lug, and connected to a single point. when this isnt possible, connect each one to a separate lug, and attach in close proximity. Multiple lugs on the same bolt is not optimal, and can result in unwanted signal noise." I have these twisted together and crimped into the same lug (just crimping everything for now until i get it working)
brown is analog out 2 and conects to the gauge/egr wire.
black is the calibration wire and this does light up the LED when It has power.

If anyone knows for sure which EGR wire to tap into I would love to know.

So basically my problem is when i hook the gauge up it just says 7.4 which is 0 volts in the original setting.
 


Ok I stripped all 5 wires from the EGR and tried to connect them and nothing is working. The gauge is for sure working I have that all wired up. Im trying to splice the same egr signal into the ERG wire but nothing shows up on HPTuners.
 
The brown wire is the one I'm using and I know it logs in HPT. My WB function is ([PID.2811]/.5)+9.5
 
Thanks. Maybe Its something like i dont have brackets around it. Ill have to mess with it and I think theres a config for it on the HPTuners forum.
 
You need those brackets around the PID IIRC for it to work properly

And where is the 15.04 and 7.35 coming from? The .5 in mine is a constant value in everyone's functions and my 9.5 is a number that gets tweaked compared to what the WB is reading (not HPT) so that they match
 
Taken from here : Wiring Wide Band into EGR or AC Output - Corvette Forum

'The basic formula for WB sensors is as follows:
volts / (voltage range/Device range) + (Minimum value of device range)=AFR

This breaks down as follows:
Volts= Incoming voltage reading, typically between 0-5 VDC.
Voltage Range= Range of sensor, typically 5
Device Range= Range of AFR that your instrument is set to read. For example if you setup your LC-1 to read 10-20 AFR, then the range would be 10.
Min. device range= Lowest AFR reading of device. In the example above it is 10.

Using the numbers above, the formula would read as follows:
volts/(5/10)+10
or
volts/(.5) +10

Therefore if you have a volt reading of 2.5 volts, this should translate into an AFR of 15.
(2.5/.5)+10=15"

The LC-1 Is like 7.35 min and 22.39 max in default settings.
 


Looks like my AEM uses a different function. Try putting the brackets around the PID you're using and that may fix it.
 
Yea well I have different problems now, my gas gauge doesnt work and my TPS isnt getting power so my car is in limp mode. But I bet that putting brackets around it will work.
 
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