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HELP! Power Steering Bolt Broke Off in Block

J

jpearsall187

New member
I have a 97 GTP. Had to remove the power steering pump and as I was reinstalling it, the top bolt broke off in the block. I have tried drilling it out and couldnt get it out. The shop I took it to says they can't get it out either. How many bolts hold the power steering pump in? I only have ever pulled out 2 i think, but I'm hoping that maybe one was missing?
 


There's only two. It's gonna be difficult to get to, but if you drop the passenger side of the cradle it's a straight shot through the wheel well with an easy out
 
The shop says they will probably have to pull the engine out. The metal part of the wheel well is in the way. Also, the bolt broke off with a jagged edge. It did not break off flush. I've already tried to drill it at home, but it wouldn't center because of this. The shop is having the same problem.
 
like OH4CompG said, drop the cradle should help out, then if you can get a grinder to the broke bolt smooth it off, hit the bolt center with a center punch, and a dewalt 9 volt drill (or small drill or right angle drill if a regular one wont fit) and a 1/8 drill bit as a starter bit, maybe you can get a back out in there after this, if not get a bit one size smaller than the bolt and drill it, and then tap it out.

put the one bolt that's still good in the pump and measure how far it sticks out, don't drill any deeper than this, you can put tape on the bit as a guide.
 


Yea, if you drop the passenger side of the cradle it's a strait shot. That shop is trying to rape you on labor by pulling the motor.
 
So the bolt is broken off jagged inside the hole. It is not a flat surface, so drilling it in the center is probably not possible as the bit always travels toward the edge. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to center it? Also, anyone have a quick run down on how to drop the passenger side of the engine cradle. I think I may have done it once before when I did the rack and pinion, but I forget what's involved. Just trying to plan. Thanks
 
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man that sucks, the only ting i can think of is if you make some kind of jig to hold the bit centered.

maybe trace the back of the pumps bolt holes and drill the holes out of a thick piece of flat stock, bolt the good bolt through the jig and line the other hole up with the broken bolt and try to drill it out.

come to think of it, if you pull the pumps pulley off you could maybe use the pump its self to line up the drill bit.
 
Can I just support the engine from underneath with a jack, disconnect the upper dog bones, and unbolt the passenger side of the subframe and lower? Will this work?
 
If the bolt is broke off inside the hole, I say air grinder with a die grinder bit. Use the end of the die grinder bit. For example: 1/4" Air Die Grinder Kit Just try to watch the sides to keep from making a pain to tap, but at least it shouldn't walk and then try drilling it when you get it flat. Done it a couple times, steady hands needed.
 
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Well, depending on how soft that bolt is you can use a really fine pointed center punch and smack it a few times to give yourself a divot in the center of the bolt. Then just stick the small drill bit in there as a guide and go to town. Just try and get the punch mark as close to center as possible or you may be retapping that hole for a larger bolt in the end.

I have actually used a Dremel tool with a grinder bit in it to smooth off recessed broken bolts as you have here, then used the center punch to give me a divot and out it came. Worked on a 93 Villager rear exhaust manifold bolt. Even did it in the van.
 
I am having great difficulty drilling a hole. The bits keep breaking. Are there any special type of super hard, super sharp drill bits i can use? Also, if I have to end up tapping this hole for a new bolt, what is the next size up that will do the job but the bolt will still fit through the power steering pump? Thanks
 
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jpearsall187 said:
I am having great difficulty drilling a hole. The bits keep breaking. Are there any special type of super hard, super sharp drill bits i can use? Also, if I have to end up tapping this hole for a new bolt, what is the next size up that will do the job but the bolt will still fit through the power steering pump? Thanks
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Don't remember the bolt size, but for drill bits, titanium coated and cobalt drill bits are the better bits. The cobalt one's are considered better, but can cost you $50 easily. If you do get the cobalts, don't let the small bits get wobbly and break off. You'll have even more fun trying to drill out cobalt with another cobalt drill bit. I usually use some cutting oil with the bits to keep them cool and drill easier.
 
Another idea of getting this out is if you know someone who welds, they could try welding a nut onto the end of the broke off bolt. Once it cools, back it out going in both directions to free it. This works sometimes, and others it just keeps breaking off and then u have to drill or grind through a weld and then the original broke off bolt. I think grinding the stud flat with the die grinder and drilling it out is still your best bet, but throwing out other ideas. If you do drill it out, I use left hand drill bits once I get most of it drilled out, usually I don't have to do any retapping after that cause it catches the stud and backs it out. I use these: 13 Piece Left-Hand Drill Bit Set When drilling, just have to be patient, don't try forcing it to drill the hole faster, once you break the surface, usually it gets easier to drill. As others said, don't drill too deep. Take measurement from another bolt and tape off on your drill bit for measurement.
 


None of the bolt is sticking out of the hole. So, these left hand drill bits, they are really good? Do you use an easy out with these or no? I have an easy out and was thinking about getting cobalt or titanium bits and trying? Is that worth it?
 
Yep, left had drill bits work great. Snap on has them also. You can also use a centerdrill to get started. If your drill is leading off, a centerdrill is your best bet, or as stated above use a die grinder with a small bit to grind a center starting point in the end of the broken bolt. A mapgas hand held torch can help as well.
 
Got it out. Dropped the engine down, used a dremel to flatten the end of the bolt, drilled out the center with left hand drill bits, and then used an easy out to pull it out. However, now that everything is back together, I still have my original problem (in another post) plus my ABS, Check Tire Pressure, and Air Bag lights in the dash are on and won't go off. What could this be?
 
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