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**HELP** 04 GTP SC shifts but wont drive

wstefan20 said:
Shoot thanks bill! So I got a trick an old mechanic taught me. Grab a small funnel that lightly tapers, use a heat gun to warm the teflon and push up the funnel lubricated with trans fluid to stretch the seal. Then take some thin plastic sheet (I used an old cut up coke liter cut to square) then roll it up and lubricate with trans fluid. Wrap around the shaft where the seal goes and slip it right into the grove. Now wrap that same sheet around the seals and place a hose clamp around each seal and leave for half an hour. Then enjoy the fact you didn't have to spend on that tool! :)

Oh, and Bill pointed out an error I made earlier. I was confused and thinking the engine was also coming out of the car, then swapping the cam is easy. ButI don't see doing this with the engine in and trans out. I'd be better to wait till the trans is in and drop the side subframe method. Still not my favorite option, but it works
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So if I skip installing the Cam, you'll recommend me to keep the engine in, drop subframe yo take original Trans out, rebuild the yard Trans and than install it while engine is in from under the car?


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WSTEFAN... I see that the Kit has in its description "2001 thru 2002 4T65E Only!"

I have an 04 GTP, will this still work?

Sorry for all the random questions. Making everything here kind of out of order.

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Closer picture of the tractor supply piece. It's all one chunk.


FWIW here's my engine support


If you need endlinks or control arms.. it's a good time to do them. ScottyDoggs brought both IIRC and did the while I did the trans swap.


An idea of how high I put the cars


If you have an ATV jack.. it's perfect for this job. I used one for almost every single trans swap I did on a 3800


When tail down.. it's so nice


Found the resizer tool pic. I like WSTE's way, but was doing too many and just bought the darn thing cheap off ebay


Pretty sure this was right after I put the pan back onto my first rebuild


Talk about mess lol.

Happened across this.. so I was going through the JY one day and saw a GTP that had rolled. bell housing was broken, engine mount torn in half... 40K miles. Snagged the engine because it was well worth the 125 bucks. here's what the oil pan looked like, I took the chance and it was a great engine.
 


Speaking of.. see the plastic bin that pan is in. I like the decent sized plastic tote from walmart to use as a catch pan. Trans service is easy when you have a big pan. Never run out of room for fluid either.
 
BillBoost37 said:
Speaking of.. see the plastic bin that pan is in. I like the decent sized plastic tote from walmart to use as a catch pan. Trans service is easy when you have a big pan. Never run out of room for fluid either.
Click to expand...
Yeah, my man! This was perfect... I see exactly what you were saying about tail down and etc.

I seen these vids to give me a visual which was so perfect to picture after reading what you and WSTEFAN were saying about seal ring sizing

4l60E Input Drum Seal Replacement - YouTube

Teflon Seal Ring resizing, Automatic Transmission - YouTube

Also, I caught that in the trans removal sticky.. I was like, "Maaan! That makes totally sense to grab a large container from Walmart or Target lol. Made a huge mess using what I thought would be large enough container and had to use 2 "Official Trans Fluid Catch Containers"... Haa

Great pics! I'm all about visual. I see one pic and than I can figure the rest out. So Perfect!! That Trans bracket can be bought or will it come separately bought in stores? That looks very handy. Very handy. Lucky you're even handier than the original trans bracket maker haha. I need your skills!

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Trans bracket was some metal a buddy tossed at me that I cut and welded. There is.. an GM trans fixture thing but the metal was free. I had an empty casing and figured out how far out the trans needed to be for the accumulator on the back of it to clear the engine stand. Then with one bolt in the back and one in the trans to engine area. I bolted it up to the stand piece and started welding. For overkill, I put a triangle piece in where the two pieces met to add strength. Having an engine hoist available, I found the balance point of a complete transmission by sliding the hoist hook around on the bracket a couple of times. Marked it and made an indent there for future use.

After that, each time a transmission arrived I could put the bracket on it and lift easily. The engine stand piece could go on at any point as I kept track of the bolts for doing transmissions. The four wheel engine stand was pretty awesome as I could balance the bigger catch basin on it. Although I did add a couple pieces (bed frame angle iron) that would sit in place to help keep the catch basin from tipping. Only took once to realize what a pain that could be.
 
This weekend finally about to go down fellas! Definitely about to take my time
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Ok, fellas..... Its been a while on this thread BUT I wanted to do all my research and studying as much as possible. Knowledge is power right!... Finally received my AFL Valve from Superior & Bushing Kit from TEP.... Its about to go down soon [emoji32][emoji29]... Since I don't have any access to a reamer tool I wont be installing the TCC Regulator Valve/AFL Valve from the Sonnax Sure Cure Kit.. But definitely installing the TCC Relief Valve and everything else.

So now I face either to install the Superior Boost/TCC Apply Valve Kit or Sonnax Boost/TCC Apply Valve Kit.. Which one or slash combination is better, any thoughts [emoji848]????
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Just wanted to stop by and let you guy know what I found in my original old tranny I took out my car........ As Shaquille O'Neal will say, BBQ CHICKEN... BURNT..
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