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Hard start when hot, smell of fuel

R

robm674

New member
After learning my lesson here, I figure I'll ask first, before I go start trying to figure things out. This problem is still in the same car. It ran good for a short time, but now it's taking a long time to start when hot, and there's a smell of gas. I've checked the fuel filter, and it's not leaking. In that post above, I checked the fuel pressure, it seemed fine, but I know that's not a complete thorough test, and it could be still bad.

I'm thinking it's the Ignition Control Module or the Fuel Pump. I'm HOPING it's the ICM, simply because it's cheaper. (ICM is 100$, the fuel pump is $250)

Thoughts? Opinions?

Thanks for your time,
Robert
 


It is common for the fuel pressure regulator to leak. Sometimes it is intermittent. The regulator is just forward the throttle body. I had the fuel pump cause an extended crank on my 97 GT only when hot also.
 
I've actually replaced the fuel pressure regulator. And I've checked the fuel pressure, and it was fine both before and after changing the fuel pressure regulator.

It's a 98 Pontiac Grand Prix SE, 3.1L.

I've recently replaced:
Harmonic Dampener (It was wobbling like crazy)
Crankshaft Position Sensor (thought it would fix another problem)
Tested all the Coils with a known good coil
Spark Plugs
Plug Wires
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Fuel Filter
Several vacuum hoses
Vacuum level is steady
Repaced wire from ICM to rear crankshaft position sensor
Starter


I used the fuel pressure gauge that you can borrow from AutoZone.


Robert
 
Did you have the fuel pressure gauge on it when it acted up? What was the pressure? Did the fuel pressure drop after the cars was turned off? When and where do you smell gas?
 
Your questions have made me start thinking it might be the fuel pump. I know the place to get to the pump is in the trunk, and that could very well be where the smell is coming from, because the odor is inside the car.

I'm going to tape up the opening, and see if that removes the smell. If it does, it sounds like that's where the problem is. If that's the case, does this mean I'll have to replace the fuel pump? Or is it maybe a seal of some sort? Or maybe the return line is causing problems?

Thanks for your help and time,
Robert
 


Check to make sure the pump runs when you turn the key into the on position, also when you smell gas pop the hood and smell around to find where it is coming from even around the whole car.

Sent from my Galaxy Tab 3 8.0
 
I know the pump runs when you turn on the key. I've asked her to wait a few seconds for that to complete, hoping it might help the car start. I'm thinking the smell of gas is coming from the trunk. I duct taped the area that's right above the fuel pump, thinking maybe the fuel smell is leaking through. If that doesn't work, I'll empty the trunk of everything, and see if that helps, I'm doubtful it will, but I want to eliminate everything.
 
Could possibly be leaking on the top of the tank, remove the access panel and check it out. Its only a handful of bolts.

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Once again, I'm glad I checked on here and listened to what ya'll had to say.

The @#%@#%@#$ fuel pressure regulator - not EVEN a month old - the diaphram or whatever inside went bad. It was leaking gas into the vacuum. What's worse, the vacuum line had melted, and it was leaking gas - explains the gas smell. The leaking vacuum explains hard to start, as well as the loss of fuel pressure.

I took it back to AutoZone and got a replacement, it was still under warranty.

Thanks again for your time and help. Now if only I can figure out the problem with the other car, the 5V reference voltage problem.

Robert
 


The PCM does not need to be re-flashed after a crank sensor is replaced. There is a crankshaft variation learn that should be done. This is a special test that is done with an OEM level access scan tool.
 
you only need the crank sensor re learn if the cel lights up. or it wont start up. if it fired up, and runs right now, and no cel, your all set crank sensor wise. carry on.
 
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