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Grand Prix Stuttering Problem

MattF

New member
I have an 02 GP and for a while it's been sputtering, it happens when I'm driving and the car lurches slightly when it happens, it also happens while idling. The car isn't giving any error codes. I was thinking maybe the plugs or wires, MAP or MAF sensors or maybe the fuel injectors are dirty? Anyone have more insight into this?
 


How old are the plugs and plug wires??

Quick test of the MAF is to unplug it, and see if it runs better.


Check engine light doesn't flash on/off does it? (means there's a misfire)
 
I have an 02 GP and for a while it's been sputtering, it happens when I'm driving and the car lurches slightly when it happens, it also happens while idling. The car isn't giving any error codes. I was thinking maybe the plugs or wires, MAP or MAF sensors or maybe the fuel injectors are dirty? Anyone have more insight into this?

Do you do regular matinence on the car?
 
Do you do regular matinence on the car?

I do regular maintenance on it but I've only had it for like a year. I just unplugged the MAF sensor so we'll see if it runs better when I drive it in a couple hours. I also replaced the front three plugs just a couple days ago but haven't gotten to the back three yet because they're such a pain in the ass. Should I replace the plug wires as well?

And my gauge cluster isn't working at the moment so I can't see if the check engine light is flashing but when I hooked the computer up to it if there was a misfire it would have told me correct?
 
Unplugging the MAF sensor did not result in the car running more smoothly. Recently replaced the plugs so I'm going to go ahead and swap out the plug wires tomorrow too and I have a fuel filter on the way since they're so cheap and I'll change that. If it's none of that is it most likely the fuel pump?
 


see how it is with new wires. they go bad.

a scanner would show if it had misfires. if its one that shows some live data.
 
Would bad plugs or wires cause the car to physically shut off? Because it has done that twice before, once while coasting down a large hill and once while coasting up to a stop light
 
check your vacuum lines and see if theres any cracks in them. I've mostly had a problem with the T that is underneath the s/c snout...that is if you're supercharged. I had a problem where it stalled randomly and that was the problem. Take some carb cleaner and spray down the lines, if there is a jump in rpms... you found a leak
 
all them thin hard plastic lines are your vac lines.

ive changed over 1/2 of mine for new flexible vac lines and new T's.
 


Approximately how much do they cost and would AutoZone carry them, like meaning would they have to order them or would they already have them there?
 
they sell it by the foot, less then a dollar a foot too. if you get about 4 or 5 feet, thats more then enough to replace the vac lines.

you may need a fatter hose, then push a thinner line inside it and a T or a Y for any evap lines.

it cuts with a razor like butter.

some pics of my lines.

evap off the TB, the fat hose there looping to the back of the engine has a hose inside the fat hose, then to the plastic line. this goes to my evap solenoid.
vachose.jpg



this line runs from the boost by pass to the fuel pressure regulator with a T, then under the snout to another T, then it ends at the map sensor.

limjob11.jpg
 
Thank you for the pics they're very helpful. I'll replace my back three plugs and all the wires as soon as the high here gets above 0. And if that doesn't work I'll take a look at the vacuum lines
 
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