Got a new AC compressor warrantied by the dealer- 6 yrs and 100k later!

[EricR]

In 2008 and at 139k the AC compressor on our 99 GP GT started making noise. Buddy worked at a then Pontiac dealer in NC, normally I had him do stuff on the side but he said "Let's do it through the dealer, that way the component is lifetime warrantied" so it's 2014 and sure enough, the thing started making more and more noise. I took it to the local GM dealer with the invoice from the dealer in '08. Got a new compressor! However, the labor was not covered (only covered in the first year) and had to pay for that.

NOW- it is (and was prior to the failure) doing the cold passenger side warm drivers side deal. Now the tech theoretically pulled a vacuum and charged it properly, I see threads saying "It's the blend door" but when I adjust the temp knob, the temp on that side (dual zone control, digital) does change... however not nearly as cold as the other side.


NOW when I am under the dash and I see the white knob with the screwdriver slot in it, is that the end of the shaft on the actuator for the door? The vacuum actuator that controls weather is is defrost, heat, etc moves and works fine. I just can't see this other thing moving when I move the temp control knob on the dash.

 

[paedbo]

ive been seeing this a lot and yes blend door can cause this but more times than not the system has a leak. when it gets low the driver side warms up

 

[EricR]

OK so I put pressure gauges on it, I had 25 low side, 210 hi side but after it runs a few minutes the hi side goes up, up up! The needle fluctuates from 350-400 and some times goes up to 450 and the pressure switch kicks the AC clutch out. The comp gets noisy at that point too. Now I tried adding a little (couple ounces) 134A and it made no change. Also, the small line coming from the evaporator is icing up.

NOW I spoke with a guy that used to do auto AC. He said he feels due to the pressure that there is a restriction in the hi side, like a blocked orifice tube.

So I took it back to the dealer, explained that the temp was 15* higher measured on the driver's side, and the compressor was whining. They called back, say the actuator for the zone door is not opening all the way, and the estimate is $658 ($297 part + labor) and they have to evacuate and re charge.

I did NOT tell them I had gauges on it. Now, if the air is not flowing due to a blocked core...would that also make the pressure spike?

I know I can take out the dash myself and probably replace the actuator...but is there reason to evacuate/re charge?

 

[BillBoost37]

Tell the dealer what you know.

When a new compressor is put in, you are automatically supposed to do an orifice tube, drier accumulator and seal kit. If the dealership didn't.. and this is an orifice tube clog, then that would explain some stuff.

Those pressures are not good on the high side. You know it..and you are going to let them suggest that the issue requires the dash to be taken apart.

Seems silly to keep that secret to yourself.

 

[EricR]

I called an auto AC place today and gave them the whole story. He suspects, due to the pressures, there is a restriction (orifice tube etc) and the fact the guy told me they had to 'evacuate and recharge" tells me they are covering their ass because they did not do a proper flush job etc. Maybe there is an issue with the zone door, but the fact the temp changes as much as it does when you move the temp knob tells him the door is mostly working.

They said that if it is the zone door actuator, they can do it much cheaper than the dealer wants, but they see another problem there. I will tell the dealer about my gauge readings, but at this point I am better off paying their diagnostic and taking it elsewhere. Just need to run the car another year or go.

 

[BillBoost37]

I would tell them that you know about the readings and decline the blend door. You can always do that door later. Their work should be fixed by them for free though.