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glendayle's 99 Buick Regal GS

glendayle

New member
Thanks for clicking/reading. Wanted to throw some more pics and history up of my car. Also working on some stuff and will try to put that info in here as it's going on. I didn't take that many pics of my car in the early years of ownership so I don't have a lot. Suffice it to say that I purchased it stock with 45k miles in 2002. I looked into modifying it at the time, but I wasn't much of a genius on the internet then. I only found CGP and RGS in about 2008. It originally was owned by a smoker, but I got a good deal on it and thought that if I ozoned the car that the smell would go away. Fortunately I was correct, and you would never know unless I told you.
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I 1st installed an Compustar autostart system. I used to drive buses for Utah State University. I had to head to work about 5am and during the winter some of those 5am mornings are pretty cold in UT. I later added an aftermarket system that included a Pioneer HU, Focal front components, 2 Thunder MTX 10" subs(later replaced with Polk Momos)

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I started doing my own maintenance eventually. Some of my general repairs were done out of need and others just out of wanting it to be a little nicer. Things that I have done include motor mounts, window regulators, LIM gasket, oil pan gasket, steering wheel swap, seat swaps, plugs, wires, pads & rotors and I suppose the list goes on and on. I never was really much of a gearhead, but have just learned on my car over the years.

The 1st real mods I did were about 4 years ago. I had a Hogan 3" exhaust put in with a Dynomax superturbo muffler and a magnaflow 6" round in place of the res. I also put in a DP and a ZZP front PLOG. At that time I dropped to a 3.5" pulley. I also put in a rear GMPP sway I found at a JY and purchased a dorman front sway bar. I also installed HIDs from DDM in my fog housings.
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About a year ago my suspension was tired so I used that as an opportunity to replace it and upgrade to an AL cradle and oil pan. I put in Dorman CAs, KYB GR2 strut assemblies, and the dorman sway bar that I had previously installed.
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My ideas about getting a faster car started to take over so I started acquiring parts. I purchased a GenV SC, N*TB(thanks Bill), IC(sseimop), FMHE and parts from frozenboost. I just never really had the time and I didn't have a 2nd vehicle if I had trouble should I have issues, so I just never go around to it.

That gets me to about 4 months ago. My trans was starting to have issues with the TCC solonoid. I decided at that time to commit further to my car and purchase a trans from TK. can't remember the exact checklist atm, but it's sufficiently built for an HP levels I'll be getting to and I switched to the 3.29 gearing. I guess I don't have a pic of the trans, but here is a pic of the old trans when I was doing the swap.
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At that time, I did the swap at my cousin's dealership. I left the car with him and he had it painted(not completely but front/back where the major issues were) and tinted. I also had them remove the front license plate.
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My favorite mod by far is my homelink fabrication. Inspired by Bill's use of an extra button in the DIC, I wired up a button in that pod and hooked it up to a homelink unit. I crudely made a button that has the homelink logo that even lights up with the other buttons. I also created a prototype where I installed a homelink unit into an onstar mirror and controlled the buttons from the onstar buttons. I promised this to Ray and just have never sent it off. Ray, if you read this. PM me and call me a punk. It's literally sitting in a box. I just need to mail it. At this point I'm too embarrassed to send it as it's been like a year since I said I would send it.
From my initial POC
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Followed Later by the completed button. I'll eventually redo it. Next time I'll get a precision cutout of the logo instead of doing it by hand.
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Another unique project was to install a light in the cubby. If you look closely at the pic below, there is a toggle switch to turn the light off and on at the left side of the inside of the housing.
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Another key factor contributing to the viability of being able to complete my near future upgrades was the acquisition of another vehicle. My dad purchased a new truck and sold me this beauty for a great price. It's a few years old and not the nicest looking truck you've ever seen, but it only has 75k miles and is all I'll ever need for a weekend/home depot/camping/car currently being repaired vehicle.
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The other little pet project I have is a variable flow controller for the IC. I developed a theory that optimal cooling of the IC fluid would not always be at full capacity of the pump. I went to a local electronics shop and was looking at potentiometers. The guru there explained that hooking up a potentiometer would cause massive amounts of heat and burn up wires and then introduced to me the principle of Pulse Width Modulation. Basically electronics that will get the effective result of partial power but by turning power to full on/full off to achieve it. My research was further validated by the fact that I found ZZP sells a variable IC pump controller that utilizes guess what?! That's right, Pulse Width Modulation. I purchased a small kit to make my own modulator and mounted it in a small project box and used RCA leads for my connectors. Here are some photos of that project.
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Anyway, hopefully I'll get this completed. I'll try to post some updates as I go along. Any input and encouragement is appreciated. I'm pretty well versed in this platform, and usually over think my projects and so forth, but no one is the ultimate guru....well except for maybe Bill, but after him, not sure.

Thanks for reading.
 


Nice, very nice.

I still haven't installed my switch pod with the added button though. I need to as I don't have a Regal shifter and no longer can kick it into perf mode.

Likely you shouldn't ask what I'm doing/have done lately that you might have missed with me not being at RGS (work won't let me see it).
 
Aight, I won't ask what you've been up to. I sent you a PM on BP when I was looking to do my trans and never heard back. I figure you were just busy and it took all of about a day for it to get buried. I wish we could get RGS working at your work. We miss you around those parts. I just noticed that you are knocking on the door of 12k posts. Holy Hell man!!! LOL
 
Nicely post and pics, bro. Looking forward to seeing more. Maybe someday we'll get together and flash my first tune, I know we've both been busy though. Good luck with everything you're doing this weekend/next week.
 


I picked up 2 packs BXT2(deadener) and 6 units ensolite(sound barrier) from RAAMaudio - Automotive sound deadening products. Not going to get into a discussion about which sound deadener is best or whatever, but I went with the Raammat based upon references and that it's the lightest and least expensive of the 3 deadeners that are 100%Butyl(second skin and dynamat being the others). The other day I did one of the doors, but I'll be doing all of the doors, trunk, floor pan, part of the firewall, and a little inside the front fenders. I'm sure it will help a little with the system, but my main motivation is to quiet out as much road, exhaust, and engine noise as possible.
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I also have these additions to my stereo. This amp will replace my MTX that is running my Focals and will run the Focals and the 6x9s. 6x9s are Infinity Kappa 692.9i.
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Nicely post and pics, bro. Looking forward to seeing more. Maybe someday we'll get together and flash my first tune, I know we've both been busy though. Good luck with everything you're doing this weekend/next week.

Thanks man. Yeah, I have been hesitant to do much to others cars tuning wise as I'm not super confident on DHP or what I'm doing yet. I'm going to have to learn out of necessity pretty quick here. But, if you get/purchase a tune from anyone that can be loaded via DHP, I'm happy to do it for you(That's my disclaimer for any culpability if things go awry). :)
 
Looks good on the mat. I ended up with a spreadable one from Second Skin Audio. Did the inside of the panels, then didn't put anything between the door and the inner panel, I have a couple small rattles. On your install, it looks great, I'm wondering though.. do you want to make it easier to swap window regulators? We do have W bodies.
 
Yeah Bill, I remember that you did the sludge from Second Skin. I looked into that, but it was too rich for my blood. Also on the Raammat, turns out the company is about 30 minutes away so I drove out and picked it up from the guy and he gave me a pretty good discount for some "damaged" stuff. I thought it was sort of funny because the "damage" was basically stuff like the corners were slightly crushed on the edge and the foil was "dented". He said that people actually complain about that despite the fact that they cut it all up and roll it all out and it gets bent or whatever during installation. Either way though I saved some bucks.

As far as the window regs go, yeah, I thought about that. Since it's all under the door card though, if I have to remove it, there will be a little bit of a mess, but I have extra stuff so I'll just reapply over the top of whatever I remove or need to double ply. I haven't had to replace one for at least 3 or 4 years so either I've actually got some decent batched parts in right now, or I'm running on borrowed time. Hopefully it's the latter, but if I end up having to do one window every couple of years, I won't be too bothered. If I end up having to do 3 or 4 within a 12 month period or so though, yeah, I'm going to be pissed. LOL
 


Well, I've done a few things since I updated this thread last.
Pulled the motor a while back
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Pulled out the interior for some wiring and sound deadening.
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Found this on here.
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New oil pan gasket
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Swapped out springs and rockers.
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Some vibration control.
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Working on sound deadener.
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IC/GenV/N*/ Headers
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Header wrap
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Back home
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reservoir bottle
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add on accessory power distribution
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to run a couple of these.
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Carpet cleaned and installed. Just took it to the car wash in the back of my truck and soaped and rinsed it down with a pressure washer. Came out great.
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Back seat back in.
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Finally got around to installing my FMHE. Many of you have installed this, but I was having trouble finding pics of exactly how you dealt with the hood latch support so I decided to show y'all how I did it. This method is extremely secure and there is no movement towards the condenser or towards the bumper support. Also surprisingly, there was no interference with the bumper support and I haven't totally decided, but I don't think I'm going to cut the bumper support at all.

1st I took a couple of body clips and mounted the FMHE to the lower rad support crosspiece. I purposely mounted the FMHE off-center towards the passenger side. I did this to allow some extra room for the hoses and connectors. I used a jack for the support to hold the FMHE in place. I had to notch the lower rad support on one side because the flange did not run straight across. I purchased a 36"piece of perforated angle bracket from HD. I notched the side supports on the car and put it in place.
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I secured the crossbrace with self-tapping metal screws. Make sure to get ones that are short and be careful where you put them because you can put them into the condenser if you are not careful.
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I removed the latch bracket and used an angle grinder to cut a shape that I could use to fashion it to the cross-member as well.
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I also had to cut the upper bumper support as well. Here is a pic of all the connections after I put it together. Let me tell you something, nothing is moving there. because of the angles and how I fastened everything together, that is all VERY structurally sound.
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You can tell that it's slightly not level. If you put a level on it, it's much closer than it looks in this picture though. Certainly not anything that will be noticeable once the bumper is back on and it will not affect performance at all.
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And to my surprise, the bumper support fits in place with plenty of clearance. Close to 1" at the narrowest gaps.
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The bumper support has some loom clips to hold the wire in place, but I think when I put everything back together I'm going to use some zip ties to tuck that wire under the overhang of the angle bracket.
 
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