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gen v and vs cam

aligater

aligater

New member
just picked up a gen v complete top end. was thinking since the engine/trans is out that i'd jam a cam in it. basically stock with 112kms on it. any problems that i might run into? tuning or otherwise? building a 2000 daytona but don't want to get to crazy (looking for roof rails and exhaust tip - (mine were stolen). have access to a scaner and all that, but want to know what to expect. anyone have a dyno program to check the power increase.


thanks in advance
 


looking at the vs only cause it's priced right, and really not to interested in building a tranny. what else will be required to run this setup, i.e. maf tb and will a tuner be required. i'm guessing that it will prob net about 50-60 extra horses but anyone with a dyno program can prove me wrong.

TIA
 


Good choice for the reasons you stated above.


No maf.Tuner would be best.PCM would be easiest and cheapest. The hp gain stated above is possible...but more common gains are in the 30hp range.No TB required and probably won't see much gain with one at this level.

What I would change is the timing chain and tensioner,valve seals,gaskets ect.


Some springs would probably a good idea also Maybe 105's at the most. No modified retainers should be required to run this cam so you should be good running you're stock ones.May want to pick up some valve locks.


If you're not taking the engine out or the heads off and are changing the springs you'll need an air hold to keep the valve from falling into the piston,All this does is pressurizes the chanber with air from an air compressor.

You'll need a puller with (3) 1/4" - 28 bolts about 3" long and some washers. to screw into the ballancer so you can pull it off.You will not find a puller with bolts that size so don't think the ones it comes with will work.DO NOT use the claw type pullers although it looks like it will work you will need a new ballancer if you use on of these.

If not taking the engine out you'll need a impact to get the ballancer bolt off. if you do have the engine out you'll need a 10lb mal and a 1/2 drive ratchet.Use the mal to beat the bolt loose.


MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS CLEAN WHEN REINSTALLING ALL THE PARTS.A GRAN OF SAND CAN RUIN AN ENGINE.USE ASSEMBLY LUB ON EVERYTHING!! SOAK THE LIFTERS IN OIL WHEN YOU TAKE THEM OUT.
 
just because you get a small cam doesnt mean you wont thrash the transmission. with a bigger cam youll be able to run a smaller pulley with less mods.

id say we need more information on what you want out of the car as a whole before we can make good recommendations for you.
 
just looking to improve what i have already. found a cam for cheap, comes with chain set but says that the balance shaft has to be removed? not to sure if thats the best plan. the TB was only because of the gen v, N* is my next mission to find. whats the deal with the LQ4? whats it found on? BTW engine/trans is out, tools are not a problem.
 
First and foremost, going with the VS in order to save your transmission is NOT the right reason. A VS cammed motor is just as capable of destroying a transmission as a S1X or XP cammed motor.

With that said, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the VS. I've run both the XP and the VS and I'd choose the VS every time. It has way better off-idle response and mid-range power. True, it doesn't quite pull as hard at redline, but that's fine with me, since you can just shift sooner to stay in the more meaty part of the powerband.

I trapped mid 106's on pump gas, full exhaust, full weight, and a Gen 3/stock ported throttle body...on a less than stellar tune. I haven't for one second thought that the VS was a poor choice.
 
The VS cam is a very nice cam you guys.

One local has that cam and a GenV. When we did his install, I think we went with a single roller timing chain replacement, and new, higher rate valve springs. Hes in the 12's and still on his stock transmission. Though hes on his 3rd. diff, still, his car is pretty much mostly stock aside a few bolt ons.

His car was faster than those with a XP and an inter cooler and a extensively modified GenIII for the longest time. Then...another local got his IC XP ride tuned and out to the track, and knocked him down a peg. :th_peaceout:

~F~
 


The local with the VS is still on his stock L67 bottom end.

The guy who knocked him down with his XP is the same as well (L67). But has a built transmission from ZZP, and this winter were installing a XPZ cam, and ported heads on his car. :cool:



~F~
 
GR8racingfool said:
The local with the VS is still on his stock L67 bottom end.

The guy who knocked him down with his XP is the same as well (L67). But has a built transmission from ZZP, and this winter were installing a XPZ cam, and ported heads on his car. :cool:



~F~
Click to expand...

XPZ and heads? Wee!:th_thumbsup-wink:

I'm still on the stock L67 bottom end as well, in case that question was for me.:)
 
xpz is a trendy cam..ooooOOOOoo..

if i were to run a cam that wants ported heads, i would not run an xpz. i dont want to be like everyone else. any cam can run fast, but you have to know how to tune it and set up all the rest of the engine/transmission to go with it. no one can figure out how to do this well anymore, that is why the xpz is so popular because it is easy as crap to make big power out of it.
 


no, not at all, but i would rather have a bigger, meaner cam than an xpz. besides, people have ran similar times to the xpz with the xp and s1x..
 
I don't know why but I don't like the xpz. I have never used it but something just doesent seem right that you have to use different length pushrods ect ect. It doesent even sound like a big cam.
 
its not a big cam. you can run it on stock heads, but it just doesnt work well because it needs more flow. a very well designed cam it is, but not big in any way.

if i were to choose a cam i would run one of these:

TEP
NIC
IS3
or id just straight up get my own grind made. a TEP with more intake lift.
 
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