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Fuel pump circuit power draw car dies in 4 days

67eftw

New member
I have a 98 GTP it has a power draw that basicly kills the car in 4-5 days. I have narrowed the draw down to the aftermarket stereo and Fuel pump circuit. The Stereos draw is no serious issue, I also have a capacitor for it. The fuel pump circuit is drawing alot more power, so I unplugged my fuel pump and everything that is on the circuit under the trunk area and under the rear of the car. The power draw still persists so im clueless and I dont want to tear apart my beauty inside out to maybe find the problem. I am too lazy to unplug the fuse every time I want to drive the car, so I was thinking a kill switch. Does anyone have any advise on what to do?
 


If you want to look for the issue. here's the fp wiring
99FuelPump.gif


99FuelPump2.gif
 
The capacitor doesn't affect the draw whether its in the car or not. I just used a basic power tester in the fusebox under the hood, the kind with the lightbulb in the handle. I pulled the fuses out one by one to diagnose what circuit it was The stereo circuit the light is lit but not very bright. FuelP circuit that **** lights like a xmas tree. Does anyone know how to wire a kill swtich that isnt wired through the ignition? Rather from the battery to prevent power loss.

Thanks again for the wiring pictures, I will still try to find the problem.
 
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I want to wire a kill switch from the battery so I stop losing power first, Then ill find the time to track down wiring to find the 'bad' ground or whatever it may be. I dont like carrying the FP fuse in my pocket to start my car :S
Is this possible?
 
Sure..I've seen some racing kill switches that interupt battery power. Check your parts stores and or summit/jegs.
 
I still dont forsee how you are figuring out the circuit draw with a simple test light. Grab yourself a cheap Digital Multi meter and Disconnect the positive terminal. Put the DMM in series with the battery and disconnected terminal. Then Set the Multimeter to the MA (Milliamp) Range.


Another pointer is Have the battery Tested.
 
Do what Brian said. The light test is just to test to see if there is power there. Not to rate how much power there is depending on how bright the damn light lights up....
 
And According to BillBoosts schematic The fuel pump fuse is HOT at all times. Pump is controlled by a Relay.
 


Ill get a Digital Multi meter to see how much is being drawn. The battery is brand new, the previous battery was swollen from freezing and it was toast. I'm only 19 and this is the only GM ive liked enough to buy, im a ford guy :P I am eager to make this car better than my 99 Eddie bauer 5.0l explorer.
 
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