• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

Front end clunk

310toumad

New member
A little background info on this: I started noticing a distinct clunking noise coming from the front end when shifting to drive or reverse, and when accelerating from a dead stop. Occasionally going over bumps or coming to a stop I would hear it, but rarely. It was hard to tell whether it was originating on the driver or passenger side, but I'm leaning towards the driver's side. I replaced the transmission mount, the transmission mount bracket, and the control arm on the driver's side. This did not seem to have much affect. A few weeks later, I decided to replace the lower motor mount. Doing this completely eliminated any clunking noises. I figured the mount was just worn allowing the motor to rock excessively.

Fast forward 5-6 months and now the clunking has slowly returned, but ONLY when shifting to reverse this time. It also does not occur every time when I accelerate like it did before, and when it does the sound is less pronounced. I thought maybe the nuts on the motor mount were coming loose, so I double checked and they appeared tight. Next I checked the nuts and bolts on the transmission mount, mounting bracket, and the subframe bushings. I tightened up the two bottom nuts on the trans mount, two bolts on the bracket, and the two front subframe bolts. Tightening these seemed to have a distinct affect on quieting, but not completely getting rid of, the clunking noise. Its probably also worth mentioning that I checked the sway bar and its bushings, right side control arm, end links, and bushings in the torque struts. None of these appeared damaged or worn. The car is an 04 gtp with 146,000 miles on it.

Now, my question is what are the torque requirements for the subframe bushing bolts? When I checked them, the rear two appeared very tight, but the front ones were noticeably more loose. I tightened them, but figure maybe not enough. I have the factory service manual, but can't seem to find it in there. Is the spec the same for both sets? I can't seem to find a reliable answer for this online. This may be my guess as to the source of the clunk. The motor mount may have been a contributing factor, but obviously not the sole reason. I guess the subframe bushings themselves could be worn, but some people have said this probably wouldn't happen at only 146k? Anyone have any other ideas?
 
Last edited:


Well I found the torque specs in the FSM, 133 ft-lbs for front and rear... seems like a lot, guess I'll tighten them up and see if that does it.
 
The crappy motor mounts may have collapsed already. Check and see if the U shaped bracket is resting on the horizontal pin/bolt in the top of the mount. Or look to see if the hydraulic fluid is leaking out.

And try tightening up the diagonal braces under the hood. They will pop/clunk if loose.
 
The crappy motor mounts may have collapsed already. Check and see if the U shaped bracket is resting on the horizontal pin/bolt in the top of the mount. Or look to see if the hydraulic fluid is leaking out.

And try tightening up the diagonal braces under the hood. They will pop/clunk if loose.

Wouldn't surprise me if that is the issue. Like I said after I first replaced it the noise went away entirely, and now its come back. I didn't even go for the cheapest POS Anchor/Pioneer ones on Rockauto for like 15 bucks. Got it from Autzone for like 60. At this point if it ends up being the mount, I'm just gonna spend the extra money and buy the freakin OEM. That thing lasted 10+ years, and I'd rather not have to keep switching out my motor mount yearly. I'd like to compare an OEM and aftermarket, cut it open and see the difference and find out why the OEM lasts so much longer. Different type of rubber or shore durometer maybe? Aftermarket is probably all Chinese made crap, and I know how they like to use sub-par materials to cut costs.

Diagonal braces are tight, so it can't be that.
 
Last edited:


Back
Top