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Front driver side wheel pissing brake fluid :(

apierce1289

apierce1289

New member
Alright so my front driver side wheel is pissing brake fluid and its not coming from where the caliper is it looks like it's coming from the engine bay. There's not rivers of brake fluid more like just a misting when you hit the brakes. What's the worst case scenario and the best case scenario for this situation? If you need more info I can try to provide it :)

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The brake pedal doesn't get stiff if I repeatedly press it it's very easy to push :/

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what line is leaking?

most of the time you'll want to use a flair tool so you can install line nuts on both sides of the cut tubing. a tubing bender is nice to have not really needed.

depending on the line you can buy a new one and change it out, but some are such a pita to get out and back in, its easier to fix the rusted out area.


the other way that is not so approved is to use compression fittings, ive used them in the past, easy to use, some dont trust them. ive used them on brake lines and trans to rad cooler lines. never had a problem.
 
Would it be easier to replace the whole line from the master cylinder to where it leads to? And are there any how to threads on break lines? I kinda want to have all new lines (not on the whole brake system just where it is leaking) so I have piece of mind.

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I found what looks to be one bad brake line (on the drivers side) and noticed my sway bar snapped on my drivers side near the rotor.
enaqepag.jpg

That does look like a rusted brake line to you guys right? Or am I seeing things?

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Could someone chime in here and help me out here? Need some guidance. Not experienced in this at all trying to learn here! o_O

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have someone pump the brake pedal while you watch that line for leakage. if its leaking you cut the rusted area out, and replace that piece of line.

a tubing cutter makes nice cut too.
 
^^ agreed. A tubing cutter works wonders. I just replaced the brake line on the tuck and used compression fittings with no problems. The sway bar is an easy fix too. Dorman bar is a good replacement and it is solid IIRC. Just lower the rear of the subframe a few inches and you have plenty of room to get the sway out and back in.
 
Alex. That appears to be the front passenger line. It'l head up over the exhaust and to the pass tire. I found that using NiCopp line a and a flare tool, it was rather easy.

My process:
Trace the line in both directions and remove it to get the fittings. Depending on how the fittings look, either reuse them (not typically recommended) or take them to the parts store with an idea of how long of line you need. Get the parts, flaring tool, cutting tool and head home.

Having gotten the old stuff apart, you did the worst of the work. Run your line in about the area it needs to be located. Put that special heat shield piece over the exhaust where you found it and cut the line to length. Flare one end and attach it. (I try to do the harder to reach or more difficult angle side first) then do the other end, tweak/bend a little where it's needed and bleed the lines out.

Like with any brake fix, do the passenger rear first, driver rear, then front passenger and front driver.
 
Do I need any special type of wrench to get the brake line fittings off? Also where the line leads to the passenger tire and connects to the plastic line its very rusty at that point where the fitting screws into is there anyway of replacing that cause its all rusty.

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Usually they are 12mm/10mm a pair of vice grips. Maybe standard in that general size, I think it's 7/16". All depends on if things fight. It's a brake line, so something will fight, hence the vice grips and my suggestion that if the fitting is bad, to get new. Take the old ones with you to match them up.
 


When I bleed the brake line I was told to look for all the bubbles to come out until it's a steady stream of brake fluid. Correct? And you said start the rear passenger tire :) also what's a good flaring tool kit brand to buy? And should I just buy a 25 foot roll of brake line or is it not going to be that much that I'm going to need? I just called and its about $50 for a 25 foot role of nickel copper.

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The Nickel Copper is expensive, it's awesome to work with though. Bends super easy. I bought the roll, because admittedly you may need another line soon.

Yes on the bubbles. You might not get any on the rear lines if they didn't get air in them from the front leaking. However it's possible, which is why you should bleed them. Check youtube for bleeding info/vid. It's pretty easy, just need a buddy with a good leg.
 
Gosh.. I picked up the $65 SEars tool that does flares and double flares. I find it easy to work with and it's.. standard.
 
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