I like to do it this way but I'm normally working on a GT or GTP which can be more complicated due to the rocker cladding. I pulled a fender for my GT off an SE in a salvage yard recently, so here goes:
Up top-
Take out the turn signal lamp then headlight assembly. Remove obvious row of fender bolts. Leave a hinge bolt in til last.
Put a padded block near the rear corner of the hood, over the windshield base area. Disconnect hood lift strut. Support hood in open position with suitable and safe prop tool. Unbolt hood hinge from hood.
Down low-
Remove screws attaching bumper cover to splash shield- 3 face the tire, 3 face the road. Remove screws attaching shield and / or molding to fender behind tire.
Remove bolts at jack point behind wheel, where fender attaches to rocker. These face outward. If its smashed up or rusty there, a long T30 might be easier than using the 10 MM you used so far.
Locate relief in edge of shield where fender and bumper meet. Remove the bolt above that, which holds the corner of the bumper. It faces the road. Bump the back edge of that end of the bumper forward to disengage it from the white plastic "slide" ahead of the bolt. That end of the bumper should move enough, but undo clips up by the grille if cracking it is a concern. Let bumper cover end hang loose.
Look in past it...
Now theres a bolt or two facing outward, on the fender's front lower extension, holding it to the metal apron area. Remove.
In the wheelhouse-
At the rear theres one 10mm nut holding the splash shield to a body stud. Remove.
Now the splash shield is loose in all but one place and its a pain. A 7mm facing the road, on the unibody rail. U can leave that in.
Move the shield aside and look towards the door from inside the wheelhouse area. You may see a big tall fuzzy wind-stopper pinched in the fender mount or clipped to a metal tab. Deal with that if needed. Loosen the nut on a long stud facing the wheel, which holds the fender to the tab on the body pillar. That one is a slot and just slides out so no need to remove the nut.
Thats everything, get that last hinge bolt and off you go. Just be aware that if the fender is an OEM piece, the hood hinge is attached to it by one spot weld. Thats why we didn't just slide the fender out from under the hinge. You may be able to do so if the fender has already been seperated from the hinge or replaced.
The fender to door fit is very touchy on these. Use caution on intitial operation of door after fender replacement, go slow and watch for interference. Hope this helps!