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Faster/More Powerful Window Motors

void33

New member
My driver side window motor finally burned out. I live in Chicago and in the winter time it is common to not be able to open your windows without scraping all the ice off or waiting for the car to get nice and toasty to melt the ice.

Anyways, has anyone replaced the motor/assembly with a bigger and/or faster motor? It'd be pretty cool to be able to break off the ice on the windows just by opening the window with the use of a bigger motor. Also it'd be pretty cool to open/close windows faster.
 


scrape the ice off. then use the windows, or they will break sooner or later. dont know of any thing better, they all seem to go bad at some point.

you can add a battery cable from the top of the fuse box to the other wire bolted to the alt. this up voltage a bit and does speed up the windows some. other then that these not much you can do.
 
some what, its 1/3 of the big 3 ground set up google it. some say they get better mpg as well, if its true or not i dont know. but i did the one wire and my windows are a bit faster, inside lights are brighter too.
 
I did the Big 3 and noticed a slight difference, but nothing major. Of course my motor has only been in for about 3 months and when it was out I sanded\cleaned\sealed every connection I could. throw a volt meter on your car when you roll the windows down, normal voltage with no accessories at idle should be around 14.4v. Even with accessories on it should be 14.4 +\-10%. If it's to low, start cleaning grounds and your positive connections.

Also, while you have the door apart, grease up the tracks and cables. The easier the window moves, the less work the motor has to do, the faster the window moves.
 
dont use grease or oil sprays to lube the window cables or sliders or tracks. it attracts dust and dirt and kills it faster.

use graphite lock spray.
 


If you used a stronger motor, you'd hurt the weather stripping. I'd suggest the old method of scraping as well.

New regulators usually come lubed with what looks like white lithium grease on the track. When I pulled my car apart, I lubed all the tracks in the regulators with white lithium and 70k later.. still going good.
 


If you used a stronger motor, you'd hurt the weather stripping. I'd suggest the old method of scraping as well.

New regulators usually come lubed with what looks like white lithium grease on the track. When I pulled my car apart, I lubed all the tracks in the regulators with white lithium and 70k later.. still going good.

exactly, they grease em from the factory...by someone that doesnt give a ****......you can surely grease em better than their "3 dabs'll do" mass production lubrication.

i put additional white lith on brand new units rofl

btw , quick tip

when you roll up the windows go down just a C hair....still shields from snow getting inside...even rain...

but the ability to go up as well as down always breaks the weatherstrip "ice lock" on the first/second try for me.....
 
For $1 you can add the diode yourself. Cause it's in their tech stuff too as a free mod

I've done this, and after about 2-3,000 miles I've never seen anything above 14.7v. I did notice the windows rolling down\up a bit quicker, and my heated seat warms up a bit faster, but that's about it. My stereo still dims the lights a little and the voltage still drops under heavy loads (all 4 windows rolling down, heated seat on high, rear defrost on, etc.) That's to be expected though, the voltage booster mod doesn't increase the amperage, only the voltage. I have 2 AWG wire from the alt to the relay center and a 2 AWG ground going straight to the alt, along with about an 8 inch 2 AG wire form the battery to the stock ground (sanded to bare metal, of course). So I think I've reached the max potential of this alternator. Eventually I'll upgrade this alternator, or buy one that is already upgraded.
 
when theres just that little dab they put on when new, the cable slides past it and picks up some as it moves, when you spray it on thick over time dust and dirt will get into the grease and then jam the guts where the cable spools up, then the cable breaks from the grinding of dirt in the grease.

i went through 2 regulators in my last truck in one year, i greased the crap out of them both, ( white lithium) the last one i used the graphite lock spray and it lasted over 3 years, same one was still there when i sold it.
 


Honestly, you are just going to find the next weak link. Camaro's are notorious for slow windows. The easy fix is to run a separate power wire into the doors from the battery and use a relay so the window motor is powered directly from the battery. It helps them live longer (esp the passenger side). I am not sure you will see the same improvements on a W body, but that is about as far as I would go. Otherwise, you just need to scrape the ice off first.
 
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