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Engine Service Light caused by oil overfill?

Comanche1959

Comanche1959

New member
I changed oil yesterday and used one of those 5qt jugs for the the first time, and as a result over filled it by about 1/2 qt or so. I drove ot to the car wash and got an engine service light on the way back. Did overfilling with oil cause it? If I drain the excess out and disconnect the battery to reset the computer, will that solve for it.

Thanks,


Steve
 


1/2 qt. shouldnt do any harm and it shouldnt set an SES light, even if the oil was grossly overfilled.

put a scanner on the car and report back with the code.
 
Don't have a scanner....maybe I'll go get one this morning. What kind do I buy / avg. cost? I'm about to post about a front end noise too.....may end up putting it in the garage this week bc I don't have tools to do struts / front end alignment.

Bought it new in '01....great car in great shape with 120K miles....gotta keep it that way.

Thanks,
Steve
 


you can buy the needed tools for less than what a shop would charge to install your new struts. a simple 30 pc socket set and a wrench set, both can be had for less than 40. (struts are a 5 bolt job) and you get to keep the tools and use them as needed in the future.

you can get a lot of stuff done on these cars with a simple socket set.
 
scottydoggs said:
you can buy the needed tools for less than what a shop would charge to install your new struts. a simple 30 pc socket set and a wrench set, both can be had for less than 40. (struts are a 5 bolt job) and you get to keep the tools and use them as needed in the future.

you can get a lot of stuff done on these cars with a simple socket set.
Click to expand...

6 Bolt for 04+ :)
 
5 or 6 bolt, i would never pay for that job its way to easy to diy.


reminds me of the movie mr mom, when he tells his wife's boss, yeah im tearing out this whole wall and gonna rewire it, the boss asks, what you going to use? 110 or 220, he goes 220, 221, what ever it takes lol
 
I've got all kinds of standard mechanics hand tools.....sae & metric, etc. I though you had to have some special tools to do struts....like something to compress the springs or something. And don't you need to do a front end alignment after replaceing them??

On the scanner....don't mind to buy one. Figure I'd spend the equivilent in gas going to a parts store to have it scanned.

Steve
 
jack the car up remove the wheel, 3 bolts up top under the hood, and 2 or 3 at the spindle, the lower bolts, break the nut loose, bring it to the end and whack the nut and bolt with a hammer to pound it out, should not take longer than 15 to 20 minutes a strut.

the alignment, after you are done if the front end dont feel like it used to, take it in, if it feels good, keep on driving. cant hurt tho.
 


if youre going to buy loaded struts (quick struts) then you won't have to disassemble everything.

spring compressors are like $40 at local parts stores. i recently had to buy one for my lowering spring install on my car. all of the rest of the tools are standard.

after a swap like this an alignment is mandatory. let everything settle for at least a few days, then get an alignment. schedule it right away after youre done.
 
For the record on the 97-03's.

3 15mm nuts on top of the strut mount to strut tower
2 21/22ish mm nuts at the lower mount to the spindle, then remove bolts (which usually don't have a hex head because they are splined and press/pull in).

A 20ish mm nut on top of the strut holds the mount etc to the rest of the assembly when you are putting them together.
 
Found out why the SES light lit up......stupid DIY mechanic forgot to plug the sensor lead in on the intake hose after changing the air filter! Disconnected the battery to reset the computer and naturally the SES light went out. Feel like a dumb-a** but look for the simple stuff first right?

Steve :th_lightbulb:
 
It's a shame you left that part out. By posting only part of what you did, we couldn't know and suggest from our own experiences...and yeah...we've all done that one.
 
On ther other problem....I looked over both struts, no broken springs, no strut leaks, top mount bolts are tight (snugged them anyhow). I keep working the slight amount of play (1/16" to 1/8" + or -) in the steering back and forth (how much should there be?) and haven't found anything that could be making that damn clunk. Lower control arms are still solid in their rubber mounts, tie rod ends solid. Looked at the rack / strng cylinder and it looks solid under movement...... Still looking.

Steve
 


One of the rubber bushings on the sway bar to lower arms was split so I replaced them all Saturday too. I think I found the problem though. The left lower control arm front bushing is bad and broken loose from the arm. I missed it at first pass because the arm is solid in the bushing, and I was prying on it front to back looking for play. On closer look....I pryed on it up and down and the arm slid down on the bushing revealing a small place where it was hitting the frame.

I also went over all the other bolts...tie rod ends, control arm bolts, sway bar bolts (a little loose) and the small amount of play I had went away (probably the sway bar mounts).

At least now I have some direction to go in. I'm pretty sure that's where it's coming from. Gotta be anal about those noises huh?

Thanks,

Steve
 
i just picked up a pair of dorman lca for 98 shipped a few months from partsgeek.com. i looked at the grand prix lca and they were even cheaper.

their prices seem to change every few days by a few bucks up or down. and google parts geek promo codes, you may find a discount that will work for you.
 
I checked O'Rileys just to see what they ran and saw moog lca's for about $137ea complete. They were the most expensive....not sure what I'll do yet.

Steve
 
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