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Engine died during cruise on freeway?!

S

slimguns

New member
I have no idea what happened other than I was cruising on the freeway. Recently I have been MAF tuning (the last two weeks) but the most recent change has been the install of a 2 bar MAP (yesterday morning) and the L67 MAP tables. I wasn't lucky enough to be logging right at the time.

This occurred twice today.

The vehicle is a turbo 2003 impala...
 


The first time the dash seemed like it froze but the second time the dash zeroed and I rolled to a safe spot. I turned the key to acc then cranked it over, wouldn't start, turned to off, back on, cranked and started, drove home. Would a stage 2 voltage booster affect this?
 


I will check. It happened again tonight and luckily I was scanning. I will look over that in the morning and update y'all. Thanks again.
 
I was using PT 1.2.3e to scan and of course it was logging properly when this occurred. Based on the above it seems I'll be changing a crank sensor. I say that because, when I crank it over, the tach stays at zero until/if it starts. Am I thinking weird or should I just cam it while replacing the crank sensor? Thoughts?
 
You'll be adding like 10 more steps if you add a cam.

Then you gotta buy a cam, buy gaskets, buy more stuff and have to try and install a cam in the car, which isnt fun.

Crank sensor is like 30-60min if you're handy.
 
Next observation (the more it happens, the more I see). Once it dies it takes about 30 sec to a min before it will start again (crank but no start). But when it does start, my STFT goes pretty lean (+10 to +14) and my LTFT goes somewhat positive (+2 to +5) when my fuel trims are normally 0 to -5. They go back to normal once I drive 5-10 minutes. Thoughts? Still no code for the crank sensor.

I do have my 1 bar MAP l36 engine running a 2 bar MAP/tables. I will change this to see if that is the issue.

Thanks y'all...
 


I have same isuue changed crank sensor and 50 miles later same thing put back old sesor then it ran fine for a few hundred miles so out of paraniona changed fuel pressure regulator still running ok but stumble now and then at 43-59 mph espically up hill
 
Do you have an aftermarket radio or subs installed and are using sn ignition wire for radio turn on or amp turn on? Excessive pull from the ignition wiring will melt (rather than blow) the fuse seat causing to not making 100% contact.. thus causing it to shut off while driving.. ask me how I know lol..
 
Robxstone said:
Do you have an aftermarket radio or subs installed and are using sn ignition wire for radio turn on or amp turn on? Excessive pull from the ignition wiring will melt (rather than blow) the fuse seat causing to not making 100% contact.. thus causing it to shut off while driving.. ask me how I know lol..
Click to expand...

After market radio no subs no sure what you mean by sn ignition wire
 
Ok, so I scanned while trying to start the engine. It does read at 230-260 rpm during crank. That rules the crank sensor out (unless they slowly go out with intermittent loss of functionality). I'm looking into my charging system and fuel pump next.

Any other ideas?
 


That does rule out the crank sensor if it didn't start while you were cranking and could see the rpms. That means something else is causing it not to start. If you were cranking and saw the rpms but it started normally, that doesn't rule it out. Like scotty said they almost always have intermittent problems when they go bad.
 
I'm on the side of the road again. I tried to turn it off and on. I realized I don't hear my fuel pump priming, isn't it supposed to prime with each off and on of the switch?

I'm thinking my mix of a stock pump with 115k, an alternator rewire, and stage two volt booster killed my pump. Hum? Opinions?
 
on the fuel rail is a black cap, take it off and push the pin in the middle in. use a rag over it as fuel should spray out with force.

if fuel comes out the pump is fine, if nothing comes out your pump is bad.
 
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