Electrical Problems

[thewuggles]

Hello All!

I hope this is in the right place, and am not fully sure, but do not have a w body (I think? new Grand Prix owner) to post in those sub forums.

I will continue with the issues. I recently got my hands on a 1993 Grand Prix LE with the 3.1L engine with 133k on it. Our old vehicle was a money pit, and my in-laws were nice enough to give my wife and I this. He told us of some issues that I would like to get fixed, but am not sure where to start.

Issues:
1. Coolant light/temp shows hot intermittently after just showing normal.
2. Fuel light intermittently, but shows correct amount on the gauge.
When these two occur above, the speedometer apparently drops by 5 mph. Going 60, lights come on, then suddenly going 55.
3. Right turn signal must be held up to keep blinking (About 90% of the time, sometimes works without holding it)
4. Mileage trip does not work.

There are some other minor things but these are the first most annoying problems. If anyone has any ideas it would be INCREDIBLY appreciated.
If this is the wrong forum, kick me out, and I'll try again.

 

[idrivejunk]

Well, the focus here is mainly on 97-up years. But welcome aboard. If I were you I'd go through the wiring by visual inspection and clean it all as I went. Concentrate on any grounds you find. If no help, see about locating a good salvaged instrument cluster since 3 of 4 issues are appearing within that, and they can't cost much or be too hard to take out. I could be wrong, I'm unfamiliar with 93s. The combination switch (signal) must be broken so that will need replacement. Connecting to the on board diagnostics to monitor engine temp would confirm if problem 1 is an actual issue.

Can't beat free! Enjoy the GP.

 

[ericspecullaas]

1. 2. and 4. are in your cluster and 3 you need a new cancel cam they are not that hard to replace just watch out for the springs they can hurt (dont ask).

 

[thewuggles]

Thank you guys for the replies! I still thank you for welcoming aboard, even though mine's older .

I did find through googling that there's a harness that runs up by the battery and air intake that like to rub and
can cause some issues, so I will start there to check with the ground and whatnot.

I'll have to do some online shopping if it is the cluster, the pick-a-parts here in Michigan suck (Atleast in my part of MI).
They won't let you in their yards and do the work, and charge some pretty steep prices for different things.

If I saw correctly (the right video I mean) I can replace the cancel cam when I go in to do the signal switch. Quick google
for the cam was $10 so it wouldn't hurt to do both (though I dunno the price of the switch).

Thank you guys again, VERY much to both of you!

 

[thewuggles]

I don't know if either of you would care to know or not (just being different year vehicles n such) , however, through more research I found that the 88's to 93's gauge clusters have a set of pins that rattle loose (the soldering's become bad) and can fix yourself by soldering 14 pins: http://www.w-body.com/oldsite/service/checkgauges.html Worth a shot to fix it yourself if you have the soldering gun to do it.

So... Checking the ground wires where it rubs in that one spot, then onto these pins, then replace cluster.

But still the same game plan with the switch and cancel cam.

 

[ericspecullaas]

if your going to "fix" the pins i would suggest that you just use the iron to heat it back up and let it reflow.

 

[idrivejunk]

One never knows a new question-asker's skill level... but if you're electronically inclined, by all means see if your cluster will fix. And investigate the other known issue you found. I had said combination switch because thats what 97+ has, but the cancel cam eric indicated... if seperate from the switch, might be all you need. Sounds like the switch works from your description.

 

[thewuggles]

Thank you for the tip Eric, I appreciate all the tips/help I can get.

idrivejunk, I am a computer nerd and have done SOME soldering before on some cables, smaller boards, and figured I could probably fix a solder (I hope). I am going to get it out of there and see what it looks like and run from there. The page I found explained that the board has lacquer covering it, and what to do for it, and a fairly helpful walkthrough. I do believe that the cancel cam is separate, but still digging for videos/walkthroughs on doing it. I can read it a million times but until there are images, videos, or get my hands on it I don't feel confident. I will definitely take that into consideration, can always buy both, rent the wheel puller, and there was some other spring in there.. lock spring? so I would have to buy/rent the tool for that, then I could try the just the cancel cam, try it, and go from there whether to replace the switch or whatnot.

Thank you guys for the input, I honestly appreciate it the help!