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CV replacement, few questions

Dtrick22

New member
Today I had my car up on the lift getting some exhaust work done...I noticed that the passenger side CV boot is starting to leak onto my rim..For the past month or so I have noticed a grinding that I can feel through the steering wheel and pedals when turning.(Wheel bearings were done in June).. I also notice a clunk when I shift out of park, this clunk being only when the car is cold...From the same right side I hear a chirp/squeak at low speeds. Could this ALL be related directly to the bad CV?
I am nearly positive that the squeak is not the brakes. I did those a few months ago.
Since I am going to have to order a CV, is this a difficult thing to replace? I have a friend that will do it for $40 (can't beat that) but I am pretty good with cars. This is something I have never had to do before. About how long should I expect it to take ( I have access to air tools..and if I really needed a lift I can use one) If its more of a pain than to just pay the $40 then I won't bother, some things are just not worth the aggravation, maybe this is one of them?
From what I've heard just remove the brakes, disconnect the 2 strut bolts, remove axle nut, then just go right to removing the CV? Or do the tie rods and control arm have to be disconnected for more room..

Is there anything else anybody recommends I should replace while I have things out?
Thanks
 


whoops, just found the write up on the cv replacement, but still, do we think that ALL relates to the bad CV or is it probably something else as well
 
Leave the brakes, pop the ball joint and ... no one answered you. How can "WE" all think it's the CV? There's only really one way to know. Check the bearing when it's up in the air and if that's bad, replace it once the axle is out.
 
Any recommendations on a brand? I notice there is grease slung up under the hood and it comes up the back of the engine bay from down by the CV. I noticed that right when I was about to buy the car, so I checked them and they looked pretty new. Its only been 7 months that I've had the car so I don't want this to be an every year thing, I'd rather pay for a better one now....And unfortunatly its a GT so I can't go with the heavy duty:th_depressed: unless I win the lottery
 
dont loosen the strut bolts. Pop t he ball joint like bill said. If you pull the strut bolts and the strut has been ground to adjust camber you will need an alignment.
 
dont loosen the strut bolts. Pop t he ball joint like bill said. If you pull the strut bolts and the strut has been ground to adjust camber you will need an alignment.

OK, that is the answer I've been hearing the more and more I talk to people about it....Just out of curiosity though, since the car is already out of alignment since I put new struts in last week, would it make it easier doing it the way I mentioned? (Just since the alignment isn't an issue) I haven't really driven it, I'm waiting till I get some time to get an alignment because I don't want to chew up my nice new G-Forces. ....Since the vote is 2-0 on not removing the strut bolts I will do it the way you guys are saying, unless it is totally for the fact that I would need an alignment, which I already do anyways. Just looking to make things easier if in fact there is one on this procedure....I appreciate it guys
 


would it make it easier doing it the way I mentioned?

it's pretty hard to beat popping the ball joint and axle nut for ease.

the ball joint won't bite. :)

I've put Cardone axles in both my GTPs, rights, and they've been fine. the 98s has probably 4 years and 60 or 70k miles and so far so good. the 05s is only a few months k miles old.
 
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