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couple questions on my gt

5

59chevy

New member
picked it up recently and am working out a few small problems ,
1. heat only works on high , nothing on 1 thru 4. i bought a blower motor resistor but havent had a chance to put it in yet , pretty common on these cars ?
2. very intermittantly while drive the tach goes to zero and the traction off light comes on and they both stay on till i turn the car off and restart it. then it could be weeks till it happens again. what could be causing this and where do i even start to diagnois it ?
 


First issue I will concur is the Blower Motor Resistor, I just got finished replacing that sucker this past weekend.

Second issue I will almost guarantee you is the CPS. My car did exactly as you described when I first got it. I just replaced it again at the first of this year no less. In fact there is a how to in the How To section obviously on how to replace that sensor.
 
The fan problem could also be caused by a bad ignition switch. I had been having the same problem of the fan only working on 5. I figured it was the resistor but had been too lazy to swap it out. But as soon as i installed my new the ignition switch, the problem went away. Now im not saying that the resistor isnt the problem, but if it doesnt fix it you might wanna take a look at the ignition switch.
 


1998gpgt said:
The fan problem could also be caused by a bad ignition switch.
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some one told me this was also a posibility and i thought they had lost their mind. guess i was wrong . i'll do the resistor and hopefully that'll do it , if not as soon as it warms up i'll try the ignition switch.. today its -2 outside so the heat being stuck on high is NOT a problem.
 
59chevy said:
some one told me this was also a posibility and i thought they had lost their mind. guess i was wrong . i'll do the resistor and hopefully that'll do it , if not as soon as it warms up i'll try the ignition switch.. today its -2 outside so the heat being stuck on high is NOT a problem.
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Im going to save you some hassle if you will listen to me. I dont have the pictures here with me but I will post them up once I get home if I dont forget.

Go get yourself either a flexible shaft nut driver (one that you can just pop a socket on and go) or a swivel head driver and an adapter to use sockets with. The bolt heads are 5.5mm, not a common size so get you one of those too.

There is one bolt on the resistor pack you can clearly see and clearly get to on the front side (closest to the glove box) and you have to completely remove it. There are two on the back side (closest to the firewall), one of which you should be able to see and one I doubt you will be able to. It is with these two that the flex shaft driver will come in handy. I would only LOOSEN them. Then you should be able to get the resistor pack out.

The two bolts you can see tighten back up when you install the new resistor. The third one (the one you cant see) I would encourage you to leave loosened. It will be a major major bear if you dont have a tool that can flex and get to those two back side bolts.
 
thanks for the pointers on the resistor , input from someone thats been there is always helpful. having the correct tools is not a problem , finding the time and mother nature cooperating are the factors. thanks for the help synthetic.
 
59chevy said:
thanks for the pointers on the resistor , input from someone thats been there is always helpful. having the correct tools is not a problem , finding the time and mother nature cooperating are the factors. thanks for the help synthetic.
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Not a problem. Glad to help out. If I was closer Id come over and help out.
 


Sorry I am a little late on this.

But typically the blower only working on #5 is a bad blower motor resistor. And typically the tach dropping to 0 and the TCS light and what not coming on is a CPS (crank position sensor) going bad. Not always...but typically.
 
cps would make sense also , right after i got it i was driving down the highway and the turd .... i mean gp just shut off. coasted off to the side and cranked a couple times and nothing , had starting fluid in the trunk and tried a shot of that , nothing. two minutes later it fired right up and hasnt done it since. looks like i better go find that thread i saw about replacing the cps and read up. man good thing i got this thing on the cheap cheap....
 
SyntheticShield said:
There is one bolt on the resistor pack you can clearly see and clearly get to on the front side (closest to the glove box) and you have to completely remove it. There are two on the back side (closest to the firewall), one of which you should be able to see and one I doubt you will be able to. It is with these two that the flex shaft driver will come in handy. I would only LOOSEN them. Then you should be able to get the resistor pack out.

The two bolts you can see tighten back up when you install the new resistor. The third one (the one you cant see) I would encourage you to leave loosened. It will be a major major bear if you dont have a tool that can flex and get to those two back side bolts.
Click to expand...

thanks for these pointers , did it today at work and resistor it was a bad resistor. was exactly as you said it was , one easy , one kinda easy , and one left loose...
thanks for the help guys and thanks for the pointers.
 
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