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Coolant Missing, Splatter Marks

fri3dchick3n

fri3dchick3n

New member
Sorry, I created this thread in the wrong section. I got mixed up with general tech discussion.


I recently switch my Water in my cooling system back to Antifreeze since its pretty darn cold here now. Tonight on my way home my low coolant light turned on, Scared me since I still had 15 minutes to drive until I reach home. I was watching my coolant temperature with my handy aeroforce and it stayed between 177-185 the whole way so it wasnt too bad. I did notice though It got cooler the slower I drove but I dont think that matters.

Anyway I did notice some splatter marks on the back side of my SC kind of lined up with my belts, and some splatter on the very top coil pack and belts seem to be covered lightly with something (probably coolant) Not sure what this could be but seems like something is leaking.

The coolant on the Coil Pack was green before now all of it is brown. Didnt think of anything when I wiped it away the first time. I just thought I spilled some accidently.

Has anyone experienced this before or have any ideas?



 
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17190801_rnb_47065_pri_detl_zps08dc8df3.jpg
 
I hope its not that, I had replaced them when I had done my LIM Gasket. Although these arent that expensive and It shouldnt be too hard to replace so what I should be saying is that I hope that is the problem. Although are you sure or just making a suggestion? I appreciate though. Thanks
 


Dorman 47065HP

Any auto parts store should have them in the "Help" section. The technical name is heater hose fitting in case you get someone incompetent trying to help you.
 
BillBoost37 said:
Not me.. I'm happy with plastic.

I'd say since it slung the way it did, check the water pump.
Click to expand...

Is there a reason you have the preference of plastic over aluminum? (Maybe I missed a thread)

Last time I went to the parts store they didn't carry the plastic anymore.
 


Yeah..you missed it.

Back in the beginning of the SII motor, GM used a tensioner/alt bracket that had the lower elbow cast as part of it. Aka what you W guys know as the 97/98 tensioner.

For some reason GM changed the bracket and made both elbows removable. I've seen the reason a few times. As the o-ring dries on the outside and the area leaks slightly which allows a build up/corrosion the assembly/lower elbow would be harder to remove from the timing cover. If you pull the assembly from engine to strut tower, typically you will crack the timing cover. The lower elbow being removable and plastic has more give and or will break before the timing cover. What aluminum may also do is corrode better over time and become as tough to remove as the old cast elbow on the tensioner. Another thing it could do is make it more difficult to remove the old piece of the aluminum elbow. The current method most people use to remove the plastic pieces is to break them with the tip of the screwdriver. That will not be possible with aluminum.

This is possibly mitigaged by when I did some work on Billy's car (GPinNYC) and his new aluminum elbows had been RTV'd in and didn't want to move, the upper elbow did break. Which then makes it more difficult to remove the old piece of the elbow for most. My thoughts on this are that the aluminums will fix the issue many people have had with installing them less than square, which puts pressure on a piece of plastic that is then heated etc and will remold itself over time and leak.
 
Excellent information and points Bill! That's quite a bit to think about. One other thing that came to mind reading that is the possibiltiy, although probably highly unlikely for dex corrosion and buildup in the elbow.

My first impression was that the aluminum ones I bought felt light, or thinner than I would have liked them to be.
 
I believe Dex is far enough from the original formula that most of the issues have long since been resolved. Just like producing a mid sized V6 capable of mid to upper 20's MPG.. GM has kept the changes in Dex a secret as well.
 
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