• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

coolant issues after elbow/lim/uim replacment

popeyenate

popeyenate

New member
So, i have a question for you all. I replaced the uppers/lowers gaskets and elbows as stated above, but this damned thing is still leaking coolant. Do I absolutely need the elbows plugged in to cool the alternator? or is it just a pass through for some awful reason, and i can cap them with freeze plugs? I dont really need heat, im a SoCal guy, and the coolest it gets here is like mid 30's, I have hoodies and a heated seat. Really tired of this POS losing coolant on me. Going to do the dye check soon and see where its leaking exactly. I have a suspected feeling that the elbows werent RTV'd enough...i found the "lightly grease them and insert" may not be enough to seal.

BTW, its a 99 and def needs to be retired :(
 


Don't use rtv, use Vaseline on them. When you replaced the lim and Jim did you replace the lower gasket on the driver side of the lower intake, right next to the exhaust crossover pipe? I forgot to do mine and it leaked. They also make aluminum elbows now.
 
2004GrandPrixGT1 said:
Don't use rtv, use Vaseline on them. When you replaced the lim and Jim did you replace the lower gasket on the driver side of the lower intake, right next to the exhaust crossover pipe? I forgot to do mine and it leaked. They also make aluminum elbows now.
Click to expand...
everyone that has done the job on here has stated to coat the o-rings with RTV...and many swear by it. if i didnt, they would be loose and leak. Dorman parts suck...
 
99PGPGT said:
did you replace the whole upper intake?
Click to expand...

i still used my stock lower, but put on a new UIM with smaller EGR pipe. I put all new felpro aluminums in so that shouldnt be an issue. about a week ago i had hood open looking around, and i was getting spattered with water droplets off passenger side...which tells me something is leaking, but where. time to go drop the dye in and let it cycle, then take light to it...be back in a while with findings. so, can i pull the heater core hoses and cap at outlets? would that be issue?
 


ok, looked at suspected areas such as elbows and front and back parts of UIM and around LIM between heads and LIM...nothing. I wasnt too sure what was happeneing here, so i started looking other places, and noticed right around the fill neck and down the whole side of rad was bright green. either i missed the fill neck (99.5% sure i didnt) or my rad cap sucks balls...again, dont buy aftermarket junk...got the murray safety cap that was recommended on here, think im going with AC Delco of rock auto now. Is it very possible that the whole woes of my situation here is the rad cap? i would have to say yes...POS!! it needs a flush anyways...get that orange crap out and go with the Hulk to cool my car off. here are some pics of my findings:

View attachment 10909

View attachment 10910

View attachment 10911

View attachment 10912

View attachment 10913

so by the looks of these pics, the cap is at fault...delco looks cheap and plastic, so i think i will be going with a gates cap, #31523. anyone have qualms with this cap?
 
Last edited:
unfreakinbelievable.....looks like you found the problem...sometimes the simplest things cause the biggest PITA.
 
That's a giant pile of poo that you say everyone suggests using RTV. I post a lot and if you look at my writeup or my posts in these types of elbow whining threads, you will find I suggest against RTV every single time with a good reason that it's a pain to clean if there's an issue. Plus.. if you do the job the way I describe it......I've yet to see one leak.
 


BillBoost37 said:
That's a giant pile of poo that you say everyone suggests using RTV. I post a lot and if you look at my writeup or my posts in these types of elbow whining threads, you will find I suggest against RTV every single time with a good reason that it's a pain to clean if there's an issue. Plus.. if you do the job the way I describe it......I've yet to see one leak.
Click to expand...

I'm with bill. Clean the holes out first before installing the elbows, gently line them up and tighten everything evenly to get everything straight when fully torqued down. They will not leak then.

People need to realize that they didn't use rtv from the factory.
 
may want to check the water pump as well, when it leaks it slings coolant via the belts.

simple test, with 2 hands, grab the 9 and 3 o clock positions of the w/p pulley, push with one, pull with the other back and fourth, if it moves, its shot.

and i did my elbows as well, last year, no leaks, cleaned the holes real good, lubed the o rings with oil, slipped them right in. no leaks. used dorman plastic too.

if you were to try to cap it you may over heat. theres a in and out hose off the back of alt bracket. when you take the alt bracket off you have 2 elbows, so it would seem looping the 2 spots together maybe a better idea, but it looks like a real pita if you ask me. tapping the holes and fitting a hose all in tight quarters. would need to cut the alt bracket up for sure.

oh and these elbows route to the alt bracket, to route coolant to the heater core, the 2 hoses off the back of the alt bracket lead to the fire wall. aka heater core inlet/outlet tubes.
 
a pic of the waterpump is included in post #7 with the forward coolant elbow=no leaks...its a brand new pump as well. did anyone read? im not doing elbows...they are done and do not leak. i understand you dont use RTV. to each their own. i see it as the icing on the cake, the insurance to make sure they dont leak. im not too worried about cleaning off rtv. the permatex stuff sits up well, and its easy to clean off with my pick.
 
also, my old 88 Monte SS i capped the heater core hoses no issue...never over heated and thats with running straight water in Hawaii climate (mid 70s in winter, low to mid 90's in summer). Was asking to see if the alternator required the waterflow for anything..or was it just engineered due to the way engine is assembled?
 


truth is those pics are horrible, i cant tell what im looking at short of glow in the dark fluid here and there.

and i dont see where you say its a new pump, thats why i said to check it out. its a sneaky source of coolant loss.
 
popeyenate said:
also, my old 88 Monte SS i capped the heater core hoses no issue...never over heated and thats with running straight water in Hawaii climate (mid 70s in winter, low to mid 90's in summer). Was asking to see if the alternator required the waterflow for anything..or was it just engineered due to the way engine is assembled?
Click to expand...

that was a 88 year motor, things were done different back then, this is just some crap design GM came up with, i think its dumb as well. why the alt bracket has to be used as plumbing to the heater core ill never understand. i dont see why a right angle nipple and a heater hose wouldn't work out......
 
i think i forgot to mention that, i looked all around the pump, no green dye anywhere. i got it nice and warmed up around my housing for a 1.5 mile drive, then took it out on another 2 mile drive and beat it a mile down and a mile back...thats when i seen the green dye plopping out around cap. kinda blows...figured a new cap would have not been issue, but i have been proven wrong with oreilly parts...they dont even do military discount anymore, so not going with them ever again.
 
What?? I got military discount today at Oreilly's when I bought my paint. Did you ask for the discount?

Like I said, Stant Cap works very well, I took off the Murry and put a Stant Cap on and no problems yet.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top