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coolant air bleeder leak for years

H

hitnf

New member
Hi there,

need some help please.

2007 GP with 117k km.
We changed the coolant a few years ago. Since then I've noticed the level going down a bit, temps seemed fine.
tstat was changed with the lim.
I kept noticing it wet near the tstat housing. Before tightening, I'd feel air in the upper hose, hour after shutting off the car, always noticed the level just below the neck in the rad hose. Changed upper radhose, seemed better.

But recently found out its the air bleeder screw thats leaking. Tried tightening it some more seemed to help, but still hisses when you press on the upper radiator hose when its cold.

After adding coolant, I have noticed now that the coolant gauge doesn't go up to near the third tick like before and drop to above the second. Now it stays above the second tick. I hooked up a scanner, and i get aound 81-86 degrees celsius, with ambient temp of 4 degrees Celsius. or 177-186f, ambient 40 f.
Is this normal or should I be getting higher temps?

THe heat is now better in the car.

I looked a bit online, and somewhere said if coolant is run lowish, tstat might need changing?

Should I change to a new tstat again?
Is the coolant fine as it is? since it was run long term.
I have back problems.

Thank you
hitnf
 
Last edited:


hi there, thank you both for the quick replies. I will look into changing that, but are the temps I put down normal for this temperature? I think it should be a bit higher... like let's say after changing the bleeder screw and its the same?

Cause with tightening, I've noticed a lot less air. But temps as listed above.
Does the tstat seem to be opening too soon?
 
hi, thank you again, so changed both the bleeder, and tstat. Heat is better, but when I pressed the upper hose the other day thought I heard some hissing again, didn't today.

Another thing, on a cold engine, I go to press the upper hose I hear it in the resevoir, but feel more liquid as I press it more. I have opened the bleeder and rad cap to let the air out then closed the bleeder and let go of the hose. Level didn't really drop in the rad.

Is there any other way to bleed the system or just let it run for a few weeks?

Thank you
 


try a new rad cap. if you hear it in the res that means coolant or air is passing by the cap.

when hot its what the cap does, lets some coolant out, then as it cools down it sucks coolant back in. when bad its a one way street for the coolant to the res, it never comes back in the rad.
 
thanks ScottyDoggs, I had a newer one on before doing the work, I'll try it again. I noticed even after starting it for 1-2 mins, then shutting off, the hose has more pressure, and I did hear the hiss noise on thedriver side of the engine, without touching anything... in the passed when I touched the upper rad hose I heard it on a cold engine

I would hear that hissing noise, after the engine is hot around the city and letting off the gas, like stomping on it, then letting off, unless its something else...

Thank you
 
hi, another update, we weren't able to fully tighten the threads of the bleeder screw as it got much harder, should it be okay? or do I have to get another one? most of the sealer is in the threads, but some is exposed.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B22JSzzZ5NFYOWxaWTBrRFVLM1E/view?usp=sharing

Also in the second photo I've always noticed the mount looks wet, and don't understand where it could be from.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B22JSzzZ5NFYd2h4M2hqSnpqNmc/view?usp=sharing

The temp gauge sometimes rises up to near the third tick then drops to the second, other times, it doesn't, I find it a bit weird that it does that, any ideas?

Thank you
 
Should be fine on the threads, as long as it doesn't leak. You try to tighten it more and they snap right off. As me how I know then you have to replace the whole housing.

As for the mount being wet, looks like something is pretty wet in that area, looks like coolant. Pop the engine cover off and see if you can pinpoint where its coming from. You might have to clean the crap off and drive/run it and look for leaking. I would use brake clean that stuff works great I use it om everything.
 
Those delicate castings (the housing) are not the place for a guy to learn about pipe threads. Pipe threads (NPT) are different than steel bolt and nut threads. They are intended to form a seal. Sometimes yes you can keep screwing them in once it feels kinda tight, for a better seal. The risk is cracking the casting and thats why its better to get a feel for NPT with like house plumbing stuff thats more rugged. Proper thread sealant must be used to prevent galling. That wet spot might dry out if you've stopped the leak, give it a couple weeks because the casting is porous and coolant is slow to evaporate. In my car, the 210 mark (second big tick,halfway) is tops. If I see 215 or 220 the thermostat is sticking and should be replaced. But until you have all the air out of the system all bets are off on normal behavior.

If I were you and the leak persists, I'd replace the entire housing with bleeder, adding just a thin layer of RTV to the housing and manifold flanges in addition to the existing seal. If that goes well, there should be no more issues.
 


As the others have stated, replace the known problem first - get the bleeder screw replaced. EDIT: I think you already fixed the bleeder :)

On my 2008, I was getting a leak between the block and the radiator housing on top. There is no gasket on the mating surface it is just metal to metal. I'd pull it apart, clean and dry the metal mating surfaces with rubbing alcohol and apply a thin bead of thermostat RTV to make a seal. Reassemble following the RTV instructions. This might fix your leak if you have the same leak as me.

Do like the others said and clean off the stain so you can tell if it is still leaking. Good luck!
 
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