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Clunking when turning far left to far right sitting idle. What do you think?

Culprit

  • CV Joint

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Rack and Pinion

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Tie Rods

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Suspension

    Votes: 1 100.0%
  • Transmission/Engine mount

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Other (Please describe in post)

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    1

void33

New member
2000 Grand Prix GT
Okay so I would have posted this in the Suspension section but I'm not sure that is what it is.

When I am driving or standing still (engine on or off) and I turn far right and then far left(or visa versa) there is a *CLUNK* *CLUNK* coming from the front end somewhere. It is decently loud.

It seems if I turn far right, back to the middle, and then back right again(or visa versa) there is no *CLUNK*. I think this is because whatever is loose is already compressed to the right side due to the first far right turn.

I replaced 2 outer and 1 inner tie-rod and both control arms roughly 15-25k miles ago with ACDelco parts so although that's still a possibility, I am not betting on it being either of those. I have also replaced both wheel bearings recently.

Anyways, any help is greatly appreciated. I made this a poll so I could easily see what the overall consensus turns out to be.
 


If the tie rods are loose enough to make that clunking noise would I be able to push them in and out by hand?
 
jack each front wheel up one by one. leave the lug nuts tight. then push and pull the tire via the 3 and 9 o clock areas. there should be no movement. if its clunking i bet they move a good 1/4 inch.

you can change them yourself, but you'll need an alignment asap after you change them. do the pair aka both sides.

and make sure you have a grease gun to grease the new ones.
 
I did those recently, they were pretty bad. I can't imagine they are bad again but I will give it a try tomorrow. Thanks for the quick reply
 


if those are new it could be the ball joints. to test them take the wheel off get a large screw driver or pry bar and wedge it by the ball joint and try to make it move.

if they are bad enough when jacked up wheel lugs tight, if you pull and push the bottom of the tire it will move in and out.

best to get new lower control arms, they come with a new ball joint and new bushings. dormans are about 40 a side.
 
Have you checked both ends of the front swaybar? If it is cracked on one side or the other (which is common) I've heard a clunk/pop noise. Both my 00 GP GT and my buddies 02 Imp suffered from this and the sway was cracked on the drivers side on both cars. Also agree on checking the ball joints as Scotty stated.
 
You may have a steering intermediate shaft making noise. It wasn't as big of issue in 2000 as it was in later years but could still be the problem. Typically you can take them out and lube them and all is well.

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Scotty, - I did replace the control arms about 10k miles ago so I don't think it is that but I will look today.

FordMan, - How would I check if it is cracked? When it makes that noise is it a pretty loud clunk/pop noise?

Daheazle, That would be the steering column right? Wouldn't there be play in the steering wheel then? I don't notice any play in the steering, how could I check this though?
 
It is the piece that connects to column to the gear and passes through the body in a rubber boot. It has a slip joint on it that binds and causes the popping noise. It will not be loose at all. The are not real easy to diagnose. The best way is to put your hand on it when you turn the wheel and see if you can feel it. If you have the front wheels off the ground when your turn the wheel the noise will go away as there is no load on the steering system.

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it would have helps a ton if you posted whats been changed already.

what about the strut mounts? pop the hood rock the steering wheel back and fourth, if the centers of the strut mounts are moving back and fourth it could be that. maybe you can hear it and see it move.
 
To check the swaybar, turn the wheel right to lock and then look behind the drivers side tire and the sway is visible. Then left to lock and check the pass. side. If it is cracked it will be around there the loop where the endlink goes through it. Right where the bar flattens out to make that loop is where they crack. I have the one off the Imp that I replaced still sitting outside if you want a close up pic of what to look for.
 
I think I found the problem. There is something rubbing against the aluminum vacuum/brake lines down near the rack and pinion. it pops them back and forth and since it is right in front of the driver seat it is very loud in the car. When the car is jacked up on the front end it is not as loud, probably because the tie rods are sitting a bit lower with the wheel fully extended. I will do more research and post again.
 


Okay so I got a few pictures of the problem. I ended up bending the vacuum/brake lines up a bit to be out of the way of the tie rod's boot. here are some pictures of before, when it was rubbing on the according and making a popping/clunking noise, maybe this will help someone down the road:

 

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None of the lines are in the bracket. Can you get them back i there? Also it kinda looks like they are dangerously close to the transmission

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That's what I tried to do for a good 30 minutes then I realized they had been replaced about halfway down from the top of the engine and whoever replaced them didn't give it enough slack so they won't fit into the clips.
 
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