Changing brake bias?

[Jkotsi]

I am hoping this will change the brake

http://rs38.pbsrc.com/albums/e114/jkotsi/Mobile Uploads/image_zps2ehcwbgj.jpg?w=480&h=480&fit=clip

Removed 50% of the pad surface from the FL and 60% from the FR. Looking to improve the left turns for dirt tracking. Not concerned with a short pad life. May soak the FR in penetrating oil.

Ill find out Sept 3 how this works.


Was thinking of a left right bias, front braking on the left, rear on the right this won't happen until next season. Has anyone tried this?

Cheers Jim

 

[Scottydoggs]

dont think thats gonna do it, you need to make less fluid travel to the outside wheels so the inside brakes grab more.

they sell a rear brake bias valve you adjust by turning a screw, it might do the same for left and right if installed on the brake line.

 

[stealthee]

From helping my brother with dirt track racing before and talking to guys who have done it for years weight transfer is more important than brake bias.

 

[Jkotsi]

Thanks for the input

There are limited mods in this class, proper valving control would be outside the limits. Cutting the pad area would work on asphalt not sure how effective it will be on dirt.

If there is time I might try switching the FR brake line with the RL.

Reducing weight transfer will definitely have a big impact on turning. So far we have reduced the weight as much as possible, staggered the wheel heights and offset the right rims +1" front and rear, and removed the front sway bar.

Increasing the FR spring rate with a rubber spacer was next, relocate the battery then remove the AC comp. For next season complete the roll cage and a much larger rear sway bar, then look at re installing the front bar.

The rubber spacer I picked up on the weekend was too small, will need to find another before the weekend.

There are only 3 races left this season so I was trying to get most of the smaller detail completed. Installing camber bolts then adjusting the caster (+1/2" right, -1/2" left) at the top of he strut tower then adjusting the tow in/out front and rear.

Thats a full week when I only have a few hours on a couple of nights. I will let you know what the results are.


Cheers Jim

 

[LeadfootCJ7]

Can you change the rotor/caliper so one side has more clamping force? Shouldn't you be braking before the turn and not in the turn? I understand it can help a little, but it seems you should be more focused on items that help you turn when not on the brakes.

 

[Jkotsi]

Can you change the rotor/caliper so one side has more clamping force? Shouldn't you be braking before the turn and not in the turn? I understand it can help a little, but it seems you should be more focused on items that help you turn when not on the brakes.

My thought was that reducing the amount of surface area of the pads would reduce the friction on rotors and change the braking bias. Something cheap and easy.

This is is a small scale adjustment that I hope will help with trail braking. Adjusting the steering should make a noticeable difference through the turns.

 

[Jkotsi]

Controlling roll for $4. Drilled and trimmed hockey pucks to fit between front right spring. Local car shop could order spacers in for $50CDN plus tax and shipping came to $80.

Also installed cam bolts, they didn't look that substantial comes with a plastic bushing to add to offset. I will measure the camber tomorrow try it Saturday and re check next week. Hoping to get +/- 3 degrees on the front.

 

[Jkotsi]

Checked the camber with a home made gauge/digital angle finder, LF+0.5, RF-1.6. Looks like I will be slotting the holes, would like to try and have +/-3 degrees.

 

[Jkotsi]

Well cutting the pads made no difference on a dirt track. I will have to look at cutting the fluid flow to the FR caliper.

The hockey pucks did make a difference in the front. I am going to try this in the RR spring and see if there is any improvement.