Car wont start, was just running yesterday
- Thread starter Dee23
- Start date
joe0813
New member
did you check anything yet??? Pull the maf sensor connector off and try to start.... if it starts you need a mass air flow... if not hook up a fuel pressure gauge. crank car for 4 revolutions and see if you have good fuel pressure. if thats good check for spark... inline spark tester works good. Check your coil pack....
MrPoopyButthole
#Billsnamechangessuck
Bill...I'm going out on a limb here...did you recall all that from memory (owners manual)?
FoSHO99
youtu.be/xhrBDcQq2DM
I heard from reliable sources that he has the entire manual tattooed on his left palm and that only bills' eyes can see it in it's entirety. You don't want to know what I heard he has on his right palm.
Dee23
New member
Aye man, relax with the way your talking. I do have a life and a SON to take care of, so i couldnt jump on here when i wanted to give u guys an update and the GS had to sit in the garage unattended a few times.
Im not an expert on AutoMotive but i do know more than the average guy. Of couse I ran all those test, I actually did it b4 I made this thread, which is Y i made this thread bc I was looking for other possibilities. Did a load test on the battery, tested the ALT, tested the coils(even checked them with the coils off thru the terminals/trigger wheel),checked sensors, OHMs test on everything pretty much, put the scanner on, checked fuses, and i can keep going....turned out to be my SPARK PLUGS, wasnt firing bc of the gap
I mean, I cant stress anymore of how much i appreciate yal help. Got the car to start, but running rough bc the damn TB studs came off so it wont seal correctly until i get the studs to sit back in tightly....
Sorry about the delays. u guys might have been frustrated waiting on my update, but trust me....no one here is frustrated more than i am with the situation.
I learned one thing though, when your car is running fine...adding lil things bc u think its better is what will fuucckkk your shhiitt up...like they say "if it aint broke, dont fix it"... lesson learned
BillBoost37
New member
First turn of the ignition from off to start, should have started and stalled. Until you turn the ignition back to off, the fuel pump does not prime again and won't give any more fuel.
Dave.... Literally pulled the manual out of the glove box to type that up.
Dee... The "trigger wheel"? This isn't a two stroke bud. What kind of gap did you put in that made it not fire? BTW any guy working on a car should always ask the question "What was done to it before the issue". PS, you didn't tell us you did plugs.......
BillBoost37
New member
Makes no sense Dee. Since you say you know more than the average guy, I'm going to hold you to that. Trigger wheel -1, swapping plugs and causing a no start, which is really hard to do -1, not telling us plug gap etc when I specifially asked... -1.
Sorry dude, if you want to be considered above average under the hood, you will need to prove/earn it. Based on this thread, I'm not seeing it. More than happy to help you and teach you if you'd like to learn.
Sorry dude, if you want to be considered above average under the hood, you will need to prove/earn it. Based on this thread, I'm not seeing it. More than happy to help you and teach you if you'd like to learn.
Dee23
New member
If I remember correctly, I did make a thread on my spark plug gaps(you posted on that thread)
The trigger wheel misunderstanding was bc i was reading in the wrong section of the manual(My fault, but it does cover numerous engines with similar configurations. I was using my HANES manual, not the car manual)
Ive been changing plugs since I first started to wipe my own ass...LOL (I was running Pulstars for 2yrs at .040" working fine...Pulstar sends me a new set pre-gapped at .025" claiming that i would see a bigger benefit. Put them in, in the mean time when i took them off the PRJ wire seal was so tight that the terminal came off on the plug itself 2x...So when my car was acting funny, I didnt think it was the plugs bc they said .025" is recommended for s/c motors, as far as the wire I used one of my old plug wires which was still good, My battery was down to 11.2v so i charged that back up to 12.6v, and like the pic i posted up, the wire was diconnected from the Alternator. So A few things played its role in this situation, but After fixing those few things, I swapped out those plugs with the right gap and the car started right up. It wasnt just the plugs. My fault for trusting that company with their plugs, now im trusting another company. Not a big deal, by the way all this was in the thread i made about those spark plugs)
Im not here to be judged on my Auto skills, if only u knew how much I know....Not all cars & motors are the same, same basic principle and theory but they're all diff in some way or form. If i put a Bugatti, Ferrari, or even a BMW in your presence u probably couldnt fix it(hypathectically speaking, **** u may work on them everyday) But im just saying that cars differ from one another. Im a good mechanic and have certifications to prove it, but that dont mean i know everything about every car.
U judged me bc I didnt have time to update this thread, bc I accidently stated something that i read in a similar chapter, bc i didnt state my gap size when i had a whole damn thread made up about it that u responded to. Hey ill take the criticism, its nothing....
Ill also take your offer on teaching me some AutoMotive stuff, theres always room to learn new stuff in todays auto industry. Just make sure it has nothing to do with 07' Hyundai Sonatas Quad cam 3.5L V6, bc im tired of rebuilding and learning about those.....more experience then u think, My bad if i was sounding Auto-retardant....heres my most recent build, this lady didnt change her oil in 70k miles...WOW
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The trigger wheel misunderstanding was bc i was reading in the wrong section of the manual(My fault, but it does cover numerous engines with similar configurations. I was using my HANES manual, not the car manual)
Ive been changing plugs since I first started to wipe my own ass...LOL (I was running Pulstars for 2yrs at .040" working fine...Pulstar sends me a new set pre-gapped at .025" claiming that i would see a bigger benefit. Put them in, in the mean time when i took them off the PRJ wire seal was so tight that the terminal came off on the plug itself 2x...So when my car was acting funny, I didnt think it was the plugs bc they said .025" is recommended for s/c motors, as far as the wire I used one of my old plug wires which was still good, My battery was down to 11.2v so i charged that back up to 12.6v, and like the pic i posted up, the wire was diconnected from the Alternator. So A few things played its role in this situation, but After fixing those few things, I swapped out those plugs with the right gap and the car started right up. It wasnt just the plugs. My fault for trusting that company with their plugs, now im trusting another company. Not a big deal, by the way all this was in the thread i made about those spark plugs)
Im not here to be judged on my Auto skills, if only u knew how much I know....Not all cars & motors are the same, same basic principle and theory but they're all diff in some way or form. If i put a Bugatti, Ferrari, or even a BMW in your presence u probably couldnt fix it(hypathectically speaking, **** u may work on them everyday) But im just saying that cars differ from one another. Im a good mechanic and have certifications to prove it, but that dont mean i know everything about every car.
U judged me bc I didnt have time to update this thread, bc I accidently stated something that i read in a similar chapter, bc i didnt state my gap size when i had a whole damn thread made up about it that u responded to. Hey ill take the criticism, its nothing....
Ill also take your offer on teaching me some AutoMotive stuff, theres always room to learn new stuff in todays auto industry. Just make sure it has nothing to do with 07' Hyundai Sonatas Quad cam 3.5L V6, bc im tired of rebuilding and learning about those.....more experience then u think, My bad if i was sounding Auto-retardant....heres my most recent build, this lady didnt change her oil in 70k miles...WOW