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Cam questions

suitercrew

suitercrew

New member
Hey guys I've been thinking about putting a cam in and had a couple questions. I don't want to go with a vs but i was hoping to find a cam I wouldn't have to upgrade my valvesprings with. They are currently 90# springs. I have heard of people running 90# springs with the xp cam which I assume is safe as long as you keep your shift points probably around the 6200 area. Also does anyone have experience with the nic cam. It has the least amount of lift so I figured it would be best pared with the 90# springs.

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GTPpower said:
Nic and vs are about your only choices. 90's are way too weak for an xp or s1x.
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Ok well I really like the nic actually my only question with that would be that they say it has a lot of overlap. So would that effect the ability to pass emmisions? Also is overlap hard on the timing chain to the point I need a double roller?

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A stock timing chain will be fine.

I do think that about any cam besides the vs will make it really hard to pass emissions if you have a sniffer test.
 
I don't have a sniffer test, although I'm running e54 too so idk if that helps too

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90# Valve Springs aren't stock... And if you're changing Spings it's best to match them to the application. You have to take the front cover off anyways to replace cam, so while there, you might as well do a few other things. Assuming you'll pull the engine to do this work, it's go BIG or go home... Front & Rear gaskets, oil pan gasket, double roller with 105# springs at least, port SC or GenV, clean injectors, new injector Orings, all new lim gaskets, trans pan drop, new filter, shift kit and fluid, flush engine and cooling system to remove Dex Crap... Whoola! New engine! And for heavens sake, shifting at 6200 is worthless... Barely any of the cams make power there, shifting a few hundred rpm lower is the trick.

Regards
 


coolone said:
90# Valve Springs aren't stock... And if you're changing Spings it's best to match them to the application. You have to take the front cover off anyways to replace cam, so while there, you might as well do a few other things. Assuming you'll pull the engine to do this work, it's go BIG or go home... Front & Rear gaskets, oil pan gasket, double roller with 105# springs at least, port SC or GenV, clean injectors, new injector Orings, all new lim gaskets, trans pan drop, new filter, shift kit and fluid, flush engine and cooling system to remove Dex Crap... Whoola! New engine! And for heavens sake, shifting at 6200 is worthless... Barely any of the cams make power there, shifting a few hundred rpm lower is the trick.

Regards
Click to expand...
I plan on dropping the subframe and doing it through there. Although most of what you just said I've already done. I do really need to replace my oil pan gasket though. I know 90s aren't stock I put them in with my rockers but at the time I had the heads off so it was super easy to do. I only have the valve spring compressor that fits around the whole head, I also only have a 3 gallon air compressor that I don't think is even big enough to hold air in the cylinder. Anyway I'd really rather not change the springs if I didn't have to.

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Spend $10 and buy a lever style spring compressor.

And you don't need air. Turn the motor over so the piston in the chamber you are working on is at TDC, and let the valve sit on it. You can stuff some twine in the combustion chamber to hold the valve up more if you want.

If you don't have a sniffer test, you can run any cam. Do they just check for engine lights?
 
GTPpower said:
Spend $10 and buy a lever style spring compressor.

And you don't need air. Turn the motor over so the piston in the chamber you are working on is at TDC, and let the valve sit on it. You can stuff some twine in the combustion chamber to hold the valve up more if you want.

If you don't have a sniffer test, you can run any cam. Do they just check for engine lights?
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Last time i went they just plugged it in, didn't even do a visual.

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All you need to do is pull the spark plug out, hold a small screwdriver, pick, etc in the hole and turn the motor over til you feel the piston contact whatever you are sticking in the spark plug hole.
 


GTPpower said:
All you need to do is pull the spark plug out, hold a small screwdriver, pick, etc in the hole and turn the motor over til you feel the piston contact whatever you are sticking in the spark plug hole.
Click to expand...
That's actually really obvious.. Now I feel stupid. I was reading some posts and other guys said to find tdc you had to watch the lifters for preload and thats where I got lost but this is way easier.

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Now if I went with a milder cam like the s1x is it recommended to replace lifters and pushrods or are stickers ok

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suitercrew said:
That's actually really obvious.. Now I feel stupid. I was reading some posts and other guys said to find tdc you had to watch the lifters for preload and thats where I got lost but this is way easier.

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Click to expand...

To find exact TDC for timing and clearance purposes, it's way more extensive. But you just need it about at the top for this.
 
suitercrew said:
Now if I went with a milder cam like the s1x is it recommended to replace lifters and pushrods or are stickers ok

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Click to expand...

Stock lifters are ok with all cams, unless they are damaged.

Stock pushrods usually work, but you would need to measure to know for sure. But most people run stock without ever measuring and have no issues.
 
Ok so my check list is cam, timing chain, chain tensioner, gaskets, probably 130s since I think 105s are actually harder on the chain then the 130s or maybe that was the ls6 springs? Anything I'm forgetting?

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It is rumored that LS6 90# springs are harder on the tensioner than comp 105's. I've never noticed a significant difference.

130's should be run with a double roller timing chain instead of a stock style.

I would highly recommend 130's and a double roller with the xp or s1x cam. 90's or 105's with those cams are not enough. You are leaving a lot of power on the table and hurting your valvetrain.
 
Ok well I decided screw it, I'll have to do springs. Can I do one sides valve springs one day and then two days later do the other side or will that throw the engine off balance. If I'm going to do springs I'll do them now rather then with the cam install just so I can spread out how long the cam install will take.

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GTPpower said:
Yeah you can do that.
Click to expand...
Thanks for talking me into man, I was hoping to not have to change springs but after more research l76 springs max at .520 lift which isn't even enough to run a vs cam. I'll probably go with the 105s though since that's what intense recommends for the s1x and since they will be easier on the chain. If I go single chain is the rollmaster or jp worth the extra money over a oem chain?

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