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Cam decision

BoostedPontiac

Regal GS Level Member
I posted on the facebook group about this but, I wanted to switch from the nic cam to the xp cam. Just about everybody said it was a bad idea and a couple of people wanted to buy the nic. Nobody could tell me why the nic was better and searching through old clubgp's records got me nowhere. I cant seem to find any 1/4 mile records. I do have a couple of reasons I wanted to switch. One of them being easier to tune. The nic cams seems to be the one just about everybody wants but almost nobody runs. Im considering just throwing in the ls7 lifters, comp pushrods, and 130# springs then running an intercooler gen v. I think I just need more opinions from the group. I know it will be my decision in the end but its nice to hear the benifits and drawbacks of both cams
 


they're completely different cams so you can't even compare them.

and watch what you're doing on facebook. the groups aren't regulated too well and there's A LOT of idiots running around on them.
 
the XP is going to be your all around cam and is about as big as you can go on stock heads. lots of people have put down good numbers with this and the s1x (intense' version of the xp).

the NIC is meant for a non-intercooled setup to run a small pulley because it has a lot of overlap. you can still run an intercooler, but it was meant to be without out, hence the name NIC.

if you've already got it cammed and what not, point your money towards some other stuff instead. i'd think if you're still on that 3.4 pulley you've got room to grow pulley wise. see where that takes you first. the only way i'd switch cams now is if you went with a set of ported heads and went with a bigger cam.
 
Yeah don't run a NIC unless you are going to run a 3.0 pulley....that was my mistake.

If I had to do it over again: XP, S1x or LL cam
 
Lucky for you there is a s1x cam forsale here slick has one in the classifieds here.
I have a s1x setup on e85 and i looooooove this setup!

Shameless drop for slick i cant believe that cam hasnt sold yet!
 


Hpt and a wideband should do the trick on tuning that cam...xp s1x usually make more peak hp but if you pulley down far enough the nic will make good whp...lowest dyno I have seen on a nic was 280whp with 3.2
 
they're completely different cams so you can't even compare them.

and watch what you're doing on facebook. the groups aren't regulated too well and there's A LOT of idiots running around on them.
Idiots doesn't even begin to explain the level of stupidity of people in the FB groups. You need advise come here don't ask the buffoons on FB.

And thanks for the plug Tyler, we really need a like button or rep system.
 
Idiots doesn't even begin to explain the level of stupidity of people in the FB groups. You need advise come here don't ask the buffoons on FB.

And thanks for the plug Tyler, we really need a like button or rep system.
This, and they are so hard headed when you tell them whats right. They just say your an idiot. Like the guy that said you dont need headers till a 3.4 and you can run a 3.6 on a top swap car with just a ubend delete and you can run a 3.8 without any exhuast mods on a top swap car also which I think is crazy LOL.

Sent from the Milky Way
 
I usually love the CAI vs Open cone war trying to explain what heat soak is and how the m90 turns into a ez bake oven.

Sent from the Milky Way
 


Or the guys that insist that TOGs are the best headers and SDs are just plain crap. How many members on here run TOGs again? How many runs SDs? I know of 1 guy on here who bought TOGs and they were complete **** as far as quality goes the welds were crap and they didn't even line up right.
 
i hold a lot of the same opinions as some of those 'idiots', but that's because i've been around long enough to know better. a lot of the time the issue is that people don't care that every car is different and there isn't some magic recipe to make it work.

i would run a 3.4 on a downpipe car all day long.

i would run a 3.2 on any car that has a cam in it.

i would run a 3.0 on any car that's intercooled.

that's also taking into account that i'd need the fuel to do so and to make sure it's tuned at least half way decent. i don't care for higher timing than stock. run more boost.

i also like open cones. you can take that 'heat soak' and cram it up yo butt. the temperature of the blower affects it, but the intake does not. once in motion you'll see within a range of ambient temps and any closer isn't going to net you anything. just science happening instead of thoughts and ideas.
 
This, and they are so hard headed when you tell them whats right. They just say your an idiot. Like the guy that said you dont need headers till a 3.4 and you can run a 3.6 on a top swap car with just a ubend delete and you can run a 3.8 without any exhuast mods on a top swap car also which I think is crazy LOL.

Sent from the Milky Way

I run a topswap with a 3.8 pulley and 100% stock exhaust :p . Though a bit different since it's a 98 bonneville (doesn't have the U-bend nonsense) and has a VS cam. I'm running 93 octane, 18* timing, 7psi, and no kr. I haven't gone to a track or dyno yet so I have no solid numbers. I've been running this setup for about 20k miles and it runs great. I drive it daily and all year round.

I plan on buying some SD headers and some kind of MPS with a 3.6, 3.8, and maybe a 3.4. I'm still reading around to figure out what I really want to do (which is how I ended up on this site). Originally I wanted a practical, daily driven, complete sleeper but I think I am willing to let it be a little bit louder if it means it will be much quicker.
 
louder isn't usually better when it comes to the exhaust of these cars. open up the front end of the exhaust (headers, downpipes) and leave the rest of the catback modest and tame. let the blower do all the talking.
 
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