I've got an 03 GT and this is now my fourth replacement for the front wheel bearing (two left, two right). I've had them all done at Big O' Tires (I don't have time), and the replacements have been under warranty (< 1 year). I've got 242k miles, but most everything up front is new: shocks, control arms, CV axles, tires, etc. Steering isn't loose, alignment is perfect. Is it something they're doing that's burning these up? I'm using the lower-end stuff from CarQuest (it's next door to them, so that's where they buy), but I'm thinking of having them upgrade to a Moog assembly. Can installation problems lead to a bad bearing?
Burning through wheel bearings?
- Thread starter Teancum
- Start date
fireprix
New member
Thats a big issue in these cars, from what I understand, lower end stuff tends to burn up pretty quick, why alot of folks spring for the Timikin (sp?) set. Gotta get the torque right or that'll increase the wear too, I've replaced mine twice, second set lasting much longer now that I've made sure I got the torque specs right. Someone else may be able to chime in better.
ericspecullaas
New member
its could be they have no clue how to install them strait. If they are not intalled correctly or packed right then it would cause premature ware and failure. Ask them if they are packing them.
Thanks for the ideas. Is there a quick reference on the torque specs? I think I'll have them fix it, pay the difference on the part for a Moog upgrade, and hand them the torque specs. Maybe I'll even bring the part in myself. They treat me really well there, but I get the feeling their techs are not ASE certed.
nik12937
New member
I've only heard hood things about SKF and Timken. I went with the Timken for my rear right because it was cheaper on Rock auto.
Funny thing is I replaced my front right with a cheaper Cardone wheel hub from Amazon back when I first got the car, and a year and a half later it's fine. I got lucky so far...
Funny thing is I replaced my front right with a cheaper Cardone wheel hub from Amazon back when I first got the car, and a year and a half later it's fine. I got lucky so far...
The OP's car has hub and bearing assemblies.
You can't really screw it up unless you don't tighten the bolts or leave layers of crap between the hub and spindle.
Sounds like a good idea.
Shiftingshaddow
New member
you have to get the higher end wheel bearings for ALL GM front drives of this generation. they are the same part--interchangeable on almost all gm front drives. they all chew these up. there is a lot of stress on the wheel bearings because of the weight on them being in the front plus they are part of the drive train so they have to handle that force as well.
darkhorizon
New member
i only run "used" oem bearings from low mile cars.
Fivefingerdeathpunch
New member
Both are 118 ft lbs.
Haynes manual is wrong most of the time, Alldata and the GM website my work uses have the correct specs.
importisland13
Banned
get oem parts =[
Reverant GTP
New member
I've run nothing bit Moog and have no problems here. The box they come in have the torque specs in them for either reusing old cv nut or buying a new nut. I always buy a new nut as its recommended to be replaced. Coming from auto parts background the cheap bearing on gm is a definite no. I warrantied them all the time and every time told them to upgrade... it took a few time but eventually they did.
BillBoost37
New member
Eric doesn't appear to have installed a bearing on a W body from 97-08 yet. :th_laugh-lol3: There is no alignment of the bearing, there is no packing of the bearings and there is nothing you can do but use a better brand.
I ripped through many Timkens, I believe they used to be made better and pushed production to Hong Kong or Mexico in the last couple years. Currently I'm very happily running SKF in the rears (3 yrs 55K miles no issues) and Moogs up front (because Advance had a 3 yr warranty and $40 off $100 discount code) so far so good.
On torque, yes there's a spec. No.. I've never used one and done a lot of these. Hasn't led to premature wear at all. As well a mechanic buddy has done more than his share, never torqued with the same results. Aka that's where I got the bad habit.
I broke down and took it to the dealer. OEM has a lifetime warranty, and after it and an oil change it'll be about $550.00, but right now I have plenty of money and very little free time. Plus I love the idea of a lifetime bearing. That's assurance, right there. Considering I've dropped $360 with two previous bearings I'd rather do it once more and do it right. Wish I could've saved money doing it myself, but this is one of those rare times where money availability trumps free time.
darkhorizon
New member
BillBoost37
New member
What's the 21, 17 and 16 for?
34/36 for the axle nut
19mm for the lug nuts
18mm wrench..pop BJ and you don't mess up the alignment
13mm for the bearing bolts
Hammer
34/36 for the axle nut
19mm for the lug nuts
18mm wrench..pop BJ and you don't mess up the alignment
13mm for the bearing bolts
Hammer