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Brake Rotors

Which rotors would you get?

  • Drilled Rotors

    Votes: 1 2.4%
  • Slotted Rotors

    Votes: 5 11.9%
  • Drilled & Slotted Rotors

    Votes: 19 45.2%
  • Not Drilled & Not Slotted Rotors (Standard)

    Votes: 17 40.5%

  • Total voters
    42
here is a Porsche 911 GT3R for comparison... just the itty bitty rears.. :th_jester:

GT3RearBrake.jpg
 


and they have a duct cooling them off...

And WTF did i say about Mini cooper guys who race their cars?

They take out their fog lights and hook up a hose so it vents cold air to their rotors.

On certain cars people mod the dust shields so that they can have a duct for cold air coming from the front of the vehicle.

Any performance vehicle should have this....

but we drive grand prix's guys.

Slots are bling, holes are bling and cost too much for what you get.

Remember, its a grand prix. :th_nanana:

Note all of the rotors you link to are two piece hat design?

They're lighter.... Drilling helps cooling, but a flipping vent would help more.

Notice the vanes in the rotors are CURVED.

That increases cooling.... That RX8 thread was not a waste of time.
 
The C6.R's carbon-carbon brake rotors measure 13 inches in diameter in the front and 12 inches in the rear. Rotors will last through a 24-hour race with proper cooling. They cannot be resurfaced. And get ready for this: They cost $3,500 each.

vemp_0709_07_z+chevrolet_corvette_C6R+brakes.jpg


...yeah, they are also carbon... different beast all together. and they have a duct cooling them off...

Exactly right! Carbon carbon brakes are NOT steel rotors, obviously, completely different beast!

There are many examples of race cars that cannot use or do not use carbon carbon brakes but steel rotors in sports car racing, American Lemans racing, and other classes such as the GT prototypes that use drilled, slotted or both type rotors, and its not just for looks-nothing in racing is done just for looks, only performance.
 


i am going through this now. I got some oreileys basic oem replacements and now 3 months later and maybe 7000 miles they shake like crazy when i brake. so now im looking for something that wont warp on me. I was looking at the EBC brakes part number USR7180. i race occasionally at the strip and i rip around curves and such. any opinions?
 
Anything with a higher temp rating.

^this. The only way you lose brakes after 7000 miles is if you drive it harder than the parts you bought were made for or you put cheap stuff on. I try to stay away from any autopart store brand due to the lower quality level they tend to be. If you like to drive it hard, save yourself some money and buy some very good pads and rotors.
 
To honestly give you the best eetup, one needs to consider the climate, car, driver and desired results.

Otherwise... yeah this thread is classic.
 


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