Brake Leak Near Fuel Filter, Proportioning Valves and Lines...

[Primal]

Hey All!

So, I Just finished the big LIM and Water Pump job over here. The motor fired right up and runs nice and smooth.

I go to put it in gear to take it around the block and the brake pedal goes straight to the floor. I pump it up a few times and nothing. Go to the brake reservoir and it's completely dry.

Under the car, right by the fuel filter, is a puddle of brake fluid.

I know the hard lines are pretty beat and I assumed one had just rotted through while the car sat. But I've also heard that the W-Bodies (this one is a 2000) have a proportioning valve right near the fuel filter: http://www.grandprixforums.net/showthread.php?t=39547

I haven't gotten under the car yet, so I don't know what's going on. That thread above gave me hope that I don't have to replace all the hard lines just yet :th_yawning:

Anyway, if there's anything anyone can add here or confirm/deny if this is a common issue on these cars, that would be great.

Thanks!

Adam

 

[Scottydoggs]

you'll need to get under there and see whats leaking. more them likely its a line. i used a small hacksaw to cut the old line. mine was the one that runs across the rear sub frame and it was beat so i replaced the whole thing from a clear area to cut and wrench on the compression fittings.

compression fittings work, but renting or owning and flairing the lines and using line nuts and all is the preffered way to change a chunk of line.

 

[Primal]

Thanks, man. I never thought of just changing out a piece of the line. Not optimal, but that would get me moving until I can tear through and do the entire job.

Thanks for this.

Adam

 

[Scottydoggs]

you can buy new lines but most of us just cut out the rusted area and replace it with new tube.

i had to cut my line in the driver side wheel well and in the same place by the pass side, then run a new line across the back of the car.

the compression fittings cost like 3 or 5 bucks for 2, and the line, 48 inches cost like 15. shorter lines cost less of course.

if you go with the compression fittings, sand the old tubing smooth and clean. then cut the pipe so the compression fitting slides on nice and easy. after its cut its a fight to sand it smooth. with fluid leaking out the end of it and all.

if you see a burr inside the cut edges, use a sharp knife and clean the inside out, you dont want metal chips in the caliper.

 

[ItHurtz]

Re do them all, 50' nickle copper lines, couple box's of fittings, bubble and double flare tool and a long afternoon and walla.

Piecing in a line you need to find where the line isnt rusted to hell and cut there and run that line to the valve, assuming you can get the valve fitting off without twisting the other line off (vise grips and soak soak soak)

Old to new




Double flare for the threaded coupling/union


If you can find a hand held hydraulic flaring tool get that

 

[Scottydoggs]

yeah, thats the right way.^^^^^

but when its cold and your in a pinch the compression fittings work well. i had that line cut out and replaced in less then 30 minutes, thats brakes bled and all.

 

[Primal]

Well... Fluid pouring out shouldn't be an issue since the reservoir is empty now and it's all over the driveway :th_shakinghead1:

Seriously, though, thanks for this, guys. Big help.

And thanks for the pics, IHURTZ!

Adam

 

[Scottydoggs]

mine sat for 2 days and it leaked all over the f ing place, the res was also dry. the lines holds fluid and can leak still after you cut it. id put a pail under it, or a drain pan, hell even cooking tin and a rock to hold it there to save your driveway.

good thing mine was in the public park lot lol i see that stain daily still.

 

[Primal]

I'm on a freakin' gravel driveway. Good news is - no stain. Bad news is - we have well water. I'll be drinking it sooner or later LOL

Yeah, I'll keep a pan under it.

What's messed up is the reason I'm working on this car - it was my mom's and she owned it since new - is that my 2000 Silverado is down because I'm replacing rusted out brake and fuel lines! GM did not use good stuff for hard lines in 2000...

Adam

 

[Scottydoggs]

14 years old? those lines owe you nothing, there life has been well used with all the salt up here.

a friend of mine picked up a used 2003 or 4 Chevy 4x4 truck, the week he got it the lines blew out on him too.

ive been pretty much waiting for one of mine to blow. they all have some crusty rust on them. i knew it was a matter of time before i had to chop up the lines.

they seem to like to rot out in the front wheel well where they pass the sub frame, and along the driver side bottom of the car. and in my case the rear sub frame line was so shot. thats the pass side rear caliper line.

 

[Primal]

I know. Neither of those vehicles owes us anything. We bought them both at the same time at the same dealership. My ex bought a Jeep Cherokee there at the same time too. I think she's still driving that as well. My father knew the General Manager so we got a screaming deal getting 3 cars at the same time...

I never thought of replacing a portion of the line, though - have full stainless brake and fuel lines for the truck. I just wanted to get the GTP road worthy while I was doing the larger job on the truck.