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Brake Booster on 2001 GP 3.8 GT

S

scha0786

New member
Got a 2001 pontiac grand prix GT with the 3.8 NA.

Whats the deal with removing the brake booster? I need to replace the suction and liquid lines for the AC on the car. I think I might be able to snake them out without touching the booster but not sure until I get into it.

I plan on removing the master cylinder and ABS module together, Air box/duct and AC accumulator. With all of that garbage out the way I think I can get those lines in and out.

From what I have read I need to disconnect the brake pedal connection under the dash and then use a pry bar on the studs, turn counter clockwise while bending the locking tab. Is that all?
 


ive seen youtube vids, it needs to be turned to un lock it from the fire wall.

ive also seen pics of the orifice tube, from what i remember you can leave the booster and just pull the master and abs pump off and get to it fine.
 
10-4, I will start with removing the ABS module and master. Worst case I will resort to yanking the booster if needed.

I have all new line sets from GM so all I need to do is unbolt, wiggle out and wiggle back in.

My CPS MA1234 gauge set and Robinair 15500 vacuum pump come in the mail tomorrow so I can start ripping into to this saturday. Boy it will be nice to have AC once again, lol its been almost 3 years!
 
Well I ended up not having to pull the brake booster, A/C lines can be snuck by. You do have to remove the transmission dip stick, but make sure to place pan underneath or you'll dump 2 qrts on the garage floor, lol.

I had to remove the air box/duct, throttle linkage/bracket, ABS module/bracket with master cylinder (Tip - leave master to ABS module lines intact and pull as one unit. Also, buy metric bolts with thread tape and hand tighten in so minimal fluid and bleeding is required), Transmission dip stick (Tip - make sure pan is under to catch), vacuum hose to brake booster.

Then you can yank out the drier, liquid and suction lines.

I replaced both liquid and suction lines along with the drier and all orings. I lubed the orings with NAPA Syle-glyde. Put a nitrogen pressure test around 100 psi and soaped all my joints. Then I pulled a deep vacuum for around an hour. Left gauges hooked up over night and made sure in the morning I still had between -29 to -30 in HG before filling.

I used ID's - first charge (11 oz of 134a, 1 oz of oil and 0.5 oz of drying agent), then standard 134a with UV dye finally one more can of striaght 134a with no dye or oil. Sticker called for 2.25lbs of R134a. So I used 3 cans which got me pretty close, I may still be a couple ounces shy but will monitor pressures when the ambient temp gets up there.

It was only 61F ambient and my center vent was dumping 34F to 37F consistant.

Scanned with black light after running AC for an hour and did not see any signs of leaks anywhere.

Thanks for all the help
 
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