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Best brake job ever.

MBruneaux

MBruneaux

New member
Just wanted share something that made a huge difference in my Grand Prix's breaking ability with 103K miles.
I constantly had warping rotors and the brakes just never felt "right". After reading about a lot of peoples thoughts I decided to do the following;

2 new wheel bearings (Timkin) to get rid of the sloppy factory bearings.
Goodridge braided steel brake hoses
Brembo OEM Front replacement rotors
Wagner rear rotors
EBC Red pads front and rear

What a difference!! The pedal feels so much firmer and the bite is awesome.

Hope this helps anyone looking to really improve their brakes without breaking the bank.:th_thumbsup-wink:
 


Bio248 said:
its the pads mostly. you should have went for a 12" upgrade while you were at it.
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I looked into the 12" upgrade but to do it right would have taken more money and time that I didn't have. In the future I'd like to find dual piston aluminum calipers and build the brakes around those. I found all the parts for this really inexpensively and it worked out great. If I ever do hit the track a lot I would definitely put the time and money into the 12" upgrade.
 
MBruneaux said:
I looked into the 12" upgrade but to do it right would have taken more money and time that I didn't have. In the future I'd like to find dual piston aluminum calipers and build the brakes around those. I found all the parts for this really inexpensively and it worked out great. If I ever do hit the track a lot I would definitely put the time and money into the 12" upgrade.
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haha

You could have done the 12" upgrade cheaper then the cost of those EBC pads dude.:th_winking::th_winking:

Do that, then come back and talk to me about the best brake job ever.
 
Ridin ON Chrome said:
haha

You could have done the 12" upgrade cheaper then the cost of those EBC pads dude.:th_winking::th_winking:

Do that, then come back and talk to me about the best brake job ever.
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When I can do the 12" upgrade using the same quality parts I just used, not the cheap crap I see with kits or parts from the auto store, then I am sure they will be better brakes and I will be more impressed but I am very happy with what I have now and wouldn't change a thing.
 
MBruneaux said:
When I can do the 12" upgrade using the same quality parts I just used, not the cheap crap I see with kits or parts from the auto store, then I am sure they will be better brakes and I will be more impressed but I am very happy with what I have now and wouldn't change a thing.
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Cheap crap, so your saying GM calipers are crap? Cuz thats what you use on the 12" upgrade.

Either Stock calipers(12" brackets), F-body calipers or 06+ Monte/Impala calipers.

They do sell Timkin, Goodridge, Bembo and Wagner stuff at auto parts stores.
ohhh nevermind. ITS ALL CRAP!!!!!!!!!!!!! :eek::eek::eek::eek:
 


Thanks!

Also, I see you have a set up similar to what I am looking to run. I plan on buying the GMPP handling kit, trailing arms, and spring/strut combo thats not too aggressive. How do you like the KYB AGX's and Vogtland combo? Are you getting any vibration that i read about after lowering?
 
I'm really happy with how it turned out. The stance is much better and the handling is greatly improved without being harsh. No vibration problems either.
 


rocafella2032 said:
About how much did you spend?
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I'm quoting numbers from memory so I might be off by a little, but:
$450 AGX Struts from performancepeddler
$225 Vogtland Springs from AJUSA
$80 Monroe Strut Mounts from rockauto
$130 GMPP handling kit from gmpartsdirect
$60 Moog swaybar end links front and rear, Moog swaybar bushings from partstrain.com
$130 BMR trailing arms from lmperformance

Also did Moog control arms, tie rod ends and a Timken front wheel bearing from rockauto. Everything is nice and tight now and handles much better. :th_thumbsup-wink:
 
Silver GTP said:
I'm quoting numbers from memory so I might be off by a little, but:
$450 AGX Struts from performancepeddler
$225 Vogtland Springs from AJUSA
$80 Monroe Strut Mounts from rockauto
$130 GMPP handling kit from gmpartsdirect
$60 Moog swaybar end links front and rear, Moog swaybar bushings from partstrain.com
$130 BMR trailing arms from lmperformance

Also did Moog control arms, tie rod ends and a Timken front wheel bearing from rockauto. Everything is nice and tight now and handles much better. :th_thumbsup-wink:
Click to expand...

How is it on the rough roads up here in New England?
 
Sounds like a good set up and almost exactly what I want to do. Can you post a pic of your car? I would like to see the stance.

Thanks!
 
NSanders21 said:
Sounds like a good set up and almost exactly what I want to do. Can you post a pic of your car? I would like to see the stance.

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Just look in my profile. I took a few pics straight from the side for bio's thread about lowering your car. I'll get some good pics when the weather warms up and I have time to clay, polish and wax the whole thing. I've only had it since late November and have not had time to do it during the few warm days we've had so far.
 
MBruneaux said:
How is it on the rough roads up here in New England?
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It rides pretty close to stock. It corners much better than before, but is not a harsh ride. The springs do hit harder over the big bumps due to the fact that the springs get harder faster when compressed. Overall, I am very happy with how it turned out. No more huge wheel gap, much better handling, but still a good ride for my daily driver and family car.
 


I guess I won't tell him about the new MOOG contol arms, MOOG tie rod ends and Timken wheel bearing that went in as part of the suspension rebuild. My feeling is, do it right or don't bother doing it.
 
Bio248 said:
its the pads mostly. you should have went for a 12" upgrade while you were at it.
Click to expand...

If you use the original caliper with the larger rotors won't there be a gap between the bottom of the caliper and the edge of the contact patch of the rotor??
 
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