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bent frame?

G

Greg84

New member
Hi guys, I have a quick question about a possible bent frame. About 2 weeks ago I jacked up my 2006 Grand prix Base model from the aluminum sub frame. I jacked it up really hi and then put only one jack stand under the front drivers side jack point, let it down so the passenger side wheel was on the ground and the drivers side was raised on the one jack stand, checked what I had it up for in the first place (unrelated) and then put the car back on the ground. Then I started the car and it started kinda ruff, drove to the store and back and when I got home I noticed a puddle in the drive way, so I looked. The power steering lines running along the sub frame were both leaking (not the same section of sub frame I jacked from). Today I finally got around to replacing the lines and started the car for the first time since the incident and again it started ruff. I drove it around the block slowly just to test the power steering and it seemed a little off. Any way, my question is, considering both lines cracked in the same place at the same time and now the car doesn't run nicely, Is it possible to bend a frame by jacking up one corner of the car too high and now things under the hood aren't aligned, so it feels off, like say the engine and transmission? And if so, can it be fixed or am I screwed? Thanks in advance for any ideas.
 


I'm not sure but with the mileage and age of some of these cars but jacking up the front subframe I do worry about the subframe bushings. Maybe take a peak at them to make sure you haven't torn or damage the bushings. That's at least something to eliminate.
 
The aluminum would not bend much, just crack or break. Kinda sounds like it did somewhere. Even steel ones should not be lifted in the manner described. Are you screwed? No. If broken, should it be fixed? No, replaced. Doubting for liablility reasons if anyone would weld it for you, although it can probably be TIG welded as a temp fix. Thats something that might be an insurance no-pay issue if a wreck happened though. Compromised crash rating. I don't know squat about 04+ GPs but am an ex collision repair technician. Replacement will be the solution if any bending or cracking is found. Raise and support it like you had it that once (so any cracks will be wide open and easy to spot), then add more support and go crack hunting with a flashlight. If none are found, carefully inspect mount areas for evidence of shifting of the frame in relation to the body.
 
I understand the sub frame and car running ruff have nothing to do with one another. I was more concerned with lowering the car on to the one jack stand on the pinch weld jack point at the front drivers side, as it was so high. imagine 3 of the 4 wheels on the ground and one raised way up. wouldn't that put strain on the chassis? That's what I meant by bent the frame, not the sub frame, but the chassis. How would I know if that happened?
 


Cracked windshield or driver's door that doesn't fit now. I doubt you've hurt the unibody structure (what you call chassis). If in doubt, most body shops with computerized body measuring equipment charge 2-3 hours to "set up and measure" the unibody. In my experience, the most likely part to be damaged by what you did would be the coil spring of the opposite corner of the suspension. If it drives straight, sits level, and the doors still close good you haven't hurt it. Anyone who stares under the hood long enough wonders why the engine looks crooked. Don't worry about that if the mounts are OK.
 
ok well I've checked all that and everything seems to be fine. Thanks guys. Also, you guys said that its not good to jack up from the subframe, where would you recommend placing the jack to lift up the front end in the future?
 
if i need both front wheels off the ground, like for jack stands, i use the middle front of the sub frame.

if im changing a tire or front end work i put the cup on the jack over the rear sub frame bolt and mount, it cant slide off that thing.
 
+1, center front of the subframe. I don't live in rust country so if lifting from the side I use the OEM-recommended jack points on the unibody at the rocker.
 
I've been using the middle front of the sub frame, but some people say thats bad. It is made of aluminum after all, and I have noticed a lot of dings in it from jacking it up there. Yesterday after i posted the question I took a look online and found a cross beam adapter for a jack on amazon. There was also another one at harbor freight. It looks like it might be the answer. The problem is that I've only got so much clearance under the car when the jack is at its lowest point, so this may bring it up too much.
 


I jack the aluminum subframe at the front corners where the aluminum material is doubled up. I have to lift each side individually, but then I don't have to worry about bending the subframe tube at the middle. I put jack stands at the recommended locations behind the from wheels.

Place a hockey puck on your jack to avoid damaging the aluminum subframe - works like a charm.
 
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