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Bad Steering Pump, Rack or Both?

bonerjamz03

bonerjamz03

New member
Been dealing with a noisy PS pump for quite some time now which I occasionally had to top off the fluid (using stop leak and regular fluid). It didn't really cause any driveability issues until recently when I was out for a ride and noticed a slight pulling sensation -from left to right- through the wheel. A day later I went to test it out again and the PS was totally dead. The fluid level was at the cold hash mark on the cap.

I did replace the rack boot a few months ago since it was ripped and noticed a slight leak while in there. I'm assuming the seals are shot so I may be replacing the whole rack (depending on price). I have a feeling the whole steering system should be replaced at this point but figured I'd get some opinions on here first.

Secondary question, how much $$ you guys think a 97 GTP with 130k miles and a bad steering system could fetch? I'm thinking like 2g's MAX.
 


Sounds like a rack to me. If you are going to replace it then get a good reman and call it a day. If you also decide to replace the power steering pump then remember to disconnect the wire for the rear knock sensor. It attaches to the bottom of the PS fluid resivoir. If you remove the pump with this attached it will rip it out.

Also, if you go to replace the rack check to see if it has Magansteer or not. If there is an electrical plug coming out around the steering boot area and it is connected to something then you have Magnasteer.

Not knowing the condition of the rest of the car I'd say 1-1,500 tops for it, and that is assuming it is clean, no rust and the rack is the only issue. Just my .02 though.
 
Yeah I was leaning towards the rack as well. I'm 99% sure it has magnasteer, so I'll start price shopping around for a replacement.

For being 21 years old it's in pretty decent condition; zero rust, paint is in great shape minus a few dings and it runs smooth. Kind of a money pit though since I fix one problem and another pops up right after. For example, I replaced all 4 struts, then the Crankshaft sensor went, now the rack goes. I think if I replace the rack the transmission will blow up lol.
 
Well, I think you just described most failure points on a 21 year old car. Those are all "wear items". They don't last forever. If you only knew how much I've replaced on my 00 GT you'd probably question my sanity. Then again, sometimes I even wonder WTF I'm thinking. But in the end I have a decent car that has 95% less problems than buying another used POS with an unknown history and most anything that comes up I can replace myself with easily located and reasonably priced parts. Mods not included...
 
Ha! I hear ya man. I've kept pretty much every part receipt for my car since I bought it and the folder looks like a small phone book.

You have any recommendations on a decent brand for the rack and pump? I'm thinking Delco may be the safe way to go but wouldn't mind aftermarket as long as the reliability is there.
 
I went with AC Delco Reman on both. So far so good. I searched around on RockAuto, Ebay, PartsGeek and Amazon for the best price. I got mine from Ebay in the end.
 


http://www.grandprixforums.com/brak...-axle-rack-pinion.html?highlight=detroit+axle

Not sure if they are still the same or not, might want to check them out. With these types of things, I don't always base my decision on price, but more of how many times do I really want to do this replacement. I'm just as frugal as the next guy but when it's something I really don't want to have to f with again in the near future, be it a replacement part or a warranty BS issue I do my homework when I can. Not always easiest on the wallet but much less time consuming. I don't have any experience with them as I've never used their parts so just my .02.
 
GTPpower said:
I just stuck in a Detroit axle rack. It works great.
Click to expand...

X2. Got a Detroit axle rack and no problems. I went through 2 whinny Cardone reman pumps before I gave up and bought an AcDelco 360049 reman. First time I started it with the AcDelco reman pump the silence was bliss. Both Cardone pumps whined regardless of type of fluid, how much fluid bled, new rack and hoses, etc. I will never buy a Cardone reman PS pump.
 


I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that if there is a wire harness going to the rack that's the "Magnasteer". No clue if that's accurate though.
 
I just bought a reman'd Delco rack and pump, hoses and tie rod ends. $345 with a $100 total for core charges ($85 for rack // $15 for pump). So $245 total which is not as bad as I thought it would be.

Any other parts I'm missing for this job?

Edit: Btw, it was a magnasteer rack. Easy way to tell for anyone wondering is check the "service parts ID" sticker on the trunk lid and look for "NV7" or look for a harness coming off the rack.
 
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id say you got it all covered, not bad for delco parts.

good time for sway bar bushings if you need em. the caps are in the clear with the sub frame dropped.

Shared album - Scott R - Google Photos frame dropped, rack pulled already. note how far i dropped the frame, bout 6 inches.

some tips. wheels dead straight lock the steering wheel, dont touch it or play with it.

pull the boot off the rack to expose the bolt in the shaft, remove that then pry it off, you can lower the frame 3 inches or so safely to make some room. get the old rack out, then lay the new and old side by side and get the steering nub there to match the old, makes getting the shaft back on easier to some degree.

take your new lock nuts, measure how far in the old lock nuts for the tie rods were, put the new nuts at the same measurement.

once its bolted back in lines are on, pull the shaft down as far as it will go, now jack up the frame till the shaft meets the rack nub, then go a inch more, now work that fuker on, having a helper move the steering wheel ever so slightly can help line it up.

afterwards hit the alignment shop, you'll be close but not perfect.
 
Yeah I'm def dropping the subframe. From your pic it looks like a good amount of room to work but I'm sure its still a pain in the ass. Good tips too I appreciate em. I'm gonna pick up some crowfoot flare wrenches just in case for the fittings.

Hopefully I can get this thing done over the weekend, the car needs an inspection badly. Cars been sitting for a while now and the inspection expired in august lol
 


iirc the line nuts on the rack are 18 mm line wrench would be best, but ive got it done with a normal wrench.

only time i was fully under the car was to get the lines off, rest of the time i was able to just reach in and undo both rack bolts and the steering shaft.
 
Yeah 18mm sounds about right. Gonna go to HF tonight and pick up a cheap set of line wrenches. I'll update this once I get the parts installed.
 
I found it easier to release the power steering lines from rack by going in through the top of the engine. I placed a board over the engine to hold up my body weight, laid on it belly first, and went in through the top like that. Under the car seemed like a PITA. Going in through the top, I was only able to do 1/4 to 1/2 turns, so took forever, but it was comfortable at least.

Edit: Do this before lowering the sub-frame. Lowering the sub-frame is still 100% necessary to get the rack out. Also be careful which way you pull the rack out. If those fuel lines and brake lines are rusted to shyt... take it out through the passenger side.
 
The car has almost no rust (luckily), so I should be good on that front.

I like the idea of going in from the top though. Not a huge fan of laying on my back on concrete underneath of a car lol.
 
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