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Autozone found 3 DTCs. How do they relate?

G

Gasnmyveins

New member
Yesterday, I disconnected the battery several times, and the pcm once, to take advantage of the fact that I finally got the previous owners 87 octane out of the tank and filled it with 93. I have also changed the plugs and wires, but my issues didn't happen until after the battery and pcm disconnects. The idle sometimes runs up to 2500 rpm when it's cold, it's usually normal after it warms up, although it has stalled twice when warm since yesterday. At first, the trans wouldn't shift until 5000 rpm unless I let off the throttle. That seems to be getting better, but is still not perfect. That also happens when it's not yet warmed up. I went to get trans fluid today, and a couple pieces of vacuum line, and decided to have the codes read while I was there. They found P0122 (TPS) (could that affect the trans shifting issue?), P0252 (Speed sensor) (could that be because the tps may be reporting in error? No problems with the speedo), and P0507(IAC)(again, could that be reporting accurate IAC counts, but the pcm believes they are wrong based on possibly inaccurate TPS readings?) Remember, none of these things happened until I had the pcm and battery disconnected.
Thanks, Gas.

EDIT: It's a 2000 GTP with 128,xxx miles and no mods yet. Straightening things out first.
 
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ok first things first. please enter your car information in your sig so we all dont have to ask the following questions:
-what model and trim car do you have?
-what year?
-any modifications to it?

-if yours is a 97 it could have a vaccum controled trany.

my money is on a vac leak though. is this a NA or SC car? id assume SC cause you are saying you need to be on 93.

does it look like there were any mods done to it?
 
Sorry about the lack of info. I added it all in my sig, but it didn't show up when I refreshed the thread so I edited the original post. It's a 2000 GTP with no mods. I've replaced the plugs and wires. I fixed a vacuum leak or 2. That's it. It was worst yesterday morning and the night before right after I did the battery and pcm disconnect. On the way home from work yesterday, it wasn't quite so bad. I drove it a couple of miles to the alignment shop and it shifted fine. Still seems to slip in 2nd. The idle was at 1200 or 1300 rpm. I need to get the codes cleared and see if they come back. The guy at Autozone didn't clear them. I don't know why the pcm reacted so wildly at first, and seems to be doing better now. I wonder if it's finding a way to compensate for a problem and is masking it.
 
try taking off the throttle body and all the sensor's and cleaning it out really well and grab some MAF cleaner for the maf and see if that helps any. I know that the maf can sometimes affect the tranny.
 
The maf was recently replaced with a reman unit by the previous owner. I hadn't thought about the throttle body. What all can it affect? I'll get some cleaner while I'm getting the driver side tie rod end, after I pick it up from the alignment shop.
 
Gasnmyveins said:
Yesterday, I disconnected the battery several times, and the pcm once, to take advantage of the fact that I finally got the previous owners 87 octane out of the tank and filled it with 93. I have also changed the plugs and wires, but my issues didn't happen until after the battery and pcm disconnects. The idle sometimes runs up to 2500 rpm when it's cold, it's usually normal after it warms up, although it has stalled twice when warm since yesterday. At first, the trans wouldn't shift until 5000 rpm unless I let off the throttle. That seems to be getting better, but is still not perfect. That also happens when it's not yet warmed up. I went to get trans fluid today, and a couple pieces of vacuum line, and decided to have the codes read while I was there. They found P0122 (TPS) (could that affect the trans shifting issue?), P0252 (Speed sensor) (could that be because the tps may be reporting in error? No problems with the speedo), and P0507(IAC)(again, could that be reporting accurate IAC counts, but the pcm believes they are wrong based on possibly inaccurate TPS readings?) Remember, none of these things happened until I had the pcm and battery disconnected.
Thanks, Gas.

EDIT: It's a 2000 GTP with 128,xxx miles and no mods yet. Straightening things out first.
Click to expand...

Just the fact alone that the previous owner was using 87 for thousands of miles would have made me walk away from the sale.
 


WORTHLESS ^&$*&*+!!@*&* MAF REMANUFACTURERS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I started this post on the 25th, and it was probably an issue for a couple of days before that. Let's say the 22nd. I have the receipt from the other maf being changed. It was dated 11-8. THAT THING LASTED 14 FREAKING DAYS!!!!!!!!!!!! They should all be put up against a wall and disposed of. I changed the IAC, figuring that even if it wasn't the cause that it would be a good idea to change it just as a pm. It was pretty dirty, and it took me a while to clean out the inside area, so I'm OK with that. I have a TPS that I was getting ready to put on, but something knocked a memory loose about unplugging a potentially bad maf, so I tried that and now it runs great. I'm so ticked, I may not even make use of the 6 month warranty. I'd have to drive 1/2 an hour away to get maybe good - maybe bad- maybe it starts to just get a little bit flaky and impossible to isolate- remanned headache of a maf. Or I could go to ZZP and get a brand new gm original equipment maf. I'd hate to spend the money if I don't have to, but man, this has really left a bad taste in my mouth.
 
Junkyard man. Take off maf, put in pocket, walk out door.

You can get dozens of them. I went through 3 in a year once. All used but still.

If you have put a aftermarket oiled filter like K&N or spectre the oil off them can kill them too.
 
I pay for things at the junkyard its just sometimes sensors / bolts
that they think they need to charge out the azz for make it to my pocket.
 
I'm not sure when I could make it there, and I'd like to get it replaced soon. I don't really want to drive around with the maf disconnected for any longer than I have to.
I haven't put my cone filter on yet, but I will sometime soon. I'll have to be very careful about how much oil I put on it.
 


im running on a used maf for the last year and half or so, cost 40 bucks. needed a pig tail too had it made for 10 bucks.

funny thing is my car never ran funny when the cel was on, and really didnt seem to run any better after it was off.

i bought my car with the cel on, and wanted it to run its best so its was my first task, get all the lights to go off on the dash. and i do mean every light was lit. 1 left, air bag, it goes down tomorrow!
 
rynoman03 said:
I pay for things at the junkyard its just sometimes sensors / bolts
that they think they need to charge out the azz for make it to my pocket.
Click to expand...

i vouch and agree. as many times as i've paid to enter the damn yard, i've paid for the few bolts and knick knacks i snag from the yard. if it's a legitimate useful part worthy of paying for then it gets paid for.
 
Like the last time i went to a yard i lost the damn nut that was off the dogbone bolt. So i went there got 2 bolts and paid 3 bux to get in. I got a arm rest and Oh SH!t handle. Paid for them put the bolts in the pocket.
 
whats this pay to get in crap? never heard of that before.

the way it worked here was if you have a tool box they want to see inside it, and they wanted to see inside of it when you left, pay for your parts at the gate, the place i went to had 3 brothers all old guys, each one had their own price for parts, so you would wonder around till the guy you knew asked for the cheapest price was at the gate :D sometime it could be a $5 to 20 dollar difference.

best deal there was the 10 dollar battery's i had a few last for years , i would just pick any battery that had a date sticker on it and that it passed a load test. and they did that for you :D

and that's how it went when i was a broke ass kid.
 


every yard here was u pull the parts, and over the last 10 or 15 years that all went away, even the yards in newark NJ, the parts are already pulled, or they pull it for you. and if you cant find it in newark your not going to find it, there has to be 100 auto recycling yards in a 5 mile radius.
 
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