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Anything needed before I start this brand new motor?

Slappyn

Slappyn

New member
I just dropped a new motor in my 2000 gtp. The only thing the book says about startingis check for oil pressure and after a few cranks it should start. Is there anything else I should do? Do I need to do anything to the computer toget it to unlearn its lean/rich bocks and do I need to set #1 to tdc? My 454 needs tdc matched to the rotor so itfeels weird not doing that. I plan tostart it any day now when Im done hooking everything up.
 


i cranked mine with all the plugs pulled until i built oil pressure. other than that, if your timings set right, fluids are full, you sholuldnt have any issues. If you have an oil pressure gauge its obviously easier to ensure you've built oil psi before starting it with the plugs back in and a load on it but thats just my .02
 
pull the fuel, or spark, and crank it a bunch of times. if you have a oil pressure gauge make sure its building oil pressure. once you have o/p fire it up.

yeah the old days were fun, no more distributors. i remember when tuning was done with a light and lighter springs, and re-jetting the carb lol
 
haha...yea timing was set when the guys rebuilt the motor. Haynes book says to watch for the op light to go out. As for the old days of timing, I have a 1973 gmc pu which still has points. I took it to hobby shop on base and none of the old guys there could help me set anything up. None of them new how to do it. It took my a few hours but I got it all tuned.
 


My fire up date was Dec 27...now I have to reconnect thesteering gear (Haynes manual sucks for making me disco it), install radiator,install starter, install alternator and wiring lines and electric connectors.Oh and I got speed daddys so I have to cut my cat out and clamp it in its oldspot. Ill fire it up Wed if this steering gear quits kicking my butt. I’m goingto have my wife giggle the steering wheel slightly tomorrow while I install thegear.
 
yeah i fought with that damn thing too, spreading the end open a bit seemed to help out, dropping the sub frame adds a bit more room to work in too.

you may just want to have your cat welded in, clamping may not seal right.
 
next time check out the how to section here. Lists tools, steps etc. No unneeded crap happens in my write ups...lol

For priming. I put it all together, leave the ICM connector off and crank a lot. Probably more than I should, but we don't have oil pressure gauges or anything to keep from running on no pressure. So I crank it up.

Yes guys..that is an oil/trans pressure gauge set on the shelf. Shhhhhhh
 


scottydoggs said:
yeah i fought with that damn thing too, spreading the end open a bit seemed to help out, dropping the sub frame adds a bit more room to work in too.

you may just want to have your cat welded in, clamping may not seal right.
Click to expand...

Yea I have not dropped the subframe yet because that is the reason the gear needs to be removed. But I dont even feel that the subframe needs to be dropped and the gear needs to be removed. That thing has cost me many hours. Thanks for the advice though, I will drop the subframe if I have to tonight.

I have a welder but I want to try clamps first so I can get it in and pass inspect so I can drive it from Jan to Mar. Then I can weld up the exhaust and fix rust spots and make some other repairs. The car has been sitting a year this Mar so I want it up and running again.


Thank you for the advice; it is sound.
 
BillBoost37 said:
next time check out the how to section here. Lists tools, steps etc. No unneeded crap happens in my write ups...lol

For priming. I put it all together, leave the ICM connector off and crank a lot. Probably more than I should, but we don't have oil pressure gauges or anything to keep from running on no pressure. So I crank it up.
Yes guys..that is an oil/trans pressure gauge set on the shelf. Shhhhhhh
Click to expand...

Yea I noticed all kinds of usefull stuff on here. I guess I just wanted to use Haynes because I feel there would be some sort of accountability if something went wrong that they instructed me to do but I know that is wrong. Ill be sure to check here for my next projects.
 
best part about he "how to's" is they have been done by people who have done them in real life, not a manual printed out. so short cuts are found.

back in the 80's, and before then, if you needed to know something, well, we went to the library took out a chilton manual, and went to town.

just by following the directions, you could see they make you take 2 or 3 more steps for no reason at all. so we would adjust to how we thought stuff would fit/ come out. some form of directions do help tho. and some form of reference is always nice. you know a pic here and there, or a schematic or two. which is all we had back in the day.
 
Yea that’s how I feel. I just need the torque specs and the does and don’ts. I don’t need manufacture red tape. I probably wasted two days on that gear drive. And dang my neighbor needs his welder back so I may have to do that cat install tonight after class. I found a forum post here on how to add an aftermarket amp with a hotlink for the part. Guy noted how good it is to use that part. I would still be trying to figure out how to do that let alone have a part lined up for it.
 


The car runs like a champion. I have had a few grounding issues but those are my own fault. I made the exhaust to low and to small so I think that is causing some vibration at lower speeds. I have 200 miles on it and just waiting to hit 300 miles and change the oil.
 
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