acdelco pf52 oil filter
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SyntheticShield
New member
Yeah, the system typically only holds about 4.5 quarts to begin with. But let me give you a good tip. You know how when you drain the oil its kinda all black and stuff? You think there might still be some left in the engine? What do you think that will do to the new oil? Yep, theres some left in the engine and depending on engine design it can be a half a quart or more. And that left over used oil just weakens the new oil when you pour it in there as it mixes. Furthermore, any contaminants that are in the left over oil get trapped by your new filter.
So what can you do about all this? Easy, buy and extra quart of oil and after all the oil has drained out (to the point its just a drip) pour in the new quart and it will flush out quite a bit of that old oil. Not quite all of it, but enough of it to make the extra quart purchase worth while. Do yourself and your engine a favor and get that extra quart.
So what can you do about all this? Easy, buy and extra quart of oil and after all the oil has drained out (to the point its just a drip) pour in the new quart and it will flush out quite a bit of that old oil. Not quite all of it, but enough of it to make the extra quart purchase worth while. Do yourself and your engine a favor and get that extra quart.
SyntheticShield
New member
Good point. I have one installed and forgot all about it.
UR LOSN
New member
Linky Linky
the engine will not be running. the extra quart you put in...goes straight to the pan. thus will push most of the old oil out. you can put your new filter on....just make sure you put some new oil in the filter before you put it on..so motor isnt fully dry on start up...and make sure you oil the rubber seal on the top. a little dab of new oil..and wipe it all around with your finger...until it is coated. Make sure your old filter came off with its top seal, if it is still on the mount, take it off, otherwise you will double seal it and it will spray out oil. then screw it on (as tight as you can get it with your hands) and there ya go.
add oil, check it.....have some fun!!!
now for oil. if it was straight synthetic in the car before..use synthetic now. you cannot go straight from synthetic to regular....without hurting the engine a bit...as the two oils do NOT mix. you can use straight synthetic, then a synthetic BLEND, and then the next you can use normal. that way it gives the seals, and metal surfaces a chance to be reconditioned to the oil.
but you can use synthetic anytime after...you just have to gradually step it back down to normal after that.
if it is cold where you are use 5w30...as it will give better lubrication in the winter because it is thinner. in summer step it up to 10w30....it does not break down in summer do to heat..... also....look for an oil that offers the best phosphorus/zinc content. I use Mobil1, AmsOil, or Royal Purple(all synthetic). these 3 have the most (thats left) of a normal passenger car oil. the delvac, and Rotella Diesel oils..are great for breaking in an engine, but toooo thick for daily use.
I can go on for hours about oils....as I did a lot of research when I found the best oils to break in my GTP engine....
now I sound like Scotty!! lol!!!!
PS: also for filters...you can use the filter from a 98 Blazer(4.3L), longer and offers more oil filtration..not sure if the PF52 is the stock size or not...been a while since I have bought any other oil filter than a Mobil1.
the engine will not be running. the extra quart you put in...goes straight to the pan. thus will push most of the old oil out. you can put your new filter on....just make sure you put some new oil in the filter before you put it on..so motor isnt fully dry on start up...and make sure you oil the rubber seal on the top. a little dab of new oil..and wipe it all around with your finger...until it is coated. Make sure your old filter came off with its top seal, if it is still on the mount, take it off, otherwise you will double seal it and it will spray out oil. then screw it on (as tight as you can get it with your hands) and there ya go.
add oil, check it.....have some fun!!!
now for oil. if it was straight synthetic in the car before..use synthetic now. you cannot go straight from synthetic to regular....without hurting the engine a bit...as the two oils do NOT mix. you can use straight synthetic, then a synthetic BLEND, and then the next you can use normal. that way it gives the seals, and metal surfaces a chance to be reconditioned to the oil.
but you can use synthetic anytime after...you just have to gradually step it back down to normal after that.
if it is cold where you are use 5w30...as it will give better lubrication in the winter because it is thinner. in summer step it up to 10w30....it does not break down in summer do to heat..... also....look for an oil that offers the best phosphorus/zinc content. I use Mobil1, AmsOil, or Royal Purple(all synthetic). these 3 have the most (thats left) of a normal passenger car oil. the delvac, and Rotella Diesel oils..are great for breaking in an engine, but toooo thick for daily use.
I can go on for hours about oils....as I did a lot of research when I found the best oils to break in my GTP engine....
now I sound like Scotty!! lol!!!!
PS: also for filters...you can use the filter from a 98 Blazer(4.3L), longer and offers more oil filtration..not sure if the PF52 is the stock size or not...been a while since I have bought any other oil filter than a Mobil1.
Last edited:
SyntheticShield
New member
UR LOSN, I don't want to start a war with anyone, but oil is kinda my side expertise so I'm going to ask a few things or make a few statements, just please please understand that they are not an attack or meant in any derogatory manner. I like having you here and do not desire to make you angry with me in anyway.
So, with that said.
First:
Where did you get your information that a synthetic and petroleum motor oil are not compatible? I assumed the link you posted may reference that but it didn't work for me.
I know of no current documentation that states that the two are not compatible or wont mix. Now, if you mix a synthetic motor oil with a petroleum oil then you degrade the performance of the synthetic (weakest link in the chain sorta thing), it wont last as long or protect as well, but they will work together.
Next:
How is a 5W-30 thinner than a 10W-30? They are both 30 weight oils. However, you are correct in that a 10W-30 will not break down as easily, this being due to the fact that generally 10W-30 motor oils are more shear stable. That is to say they molecular chains do not bread down as easily.
With reference to the oils that offer the most phosphorus and zinc content, you are correct in that those are good additives to have. Zinc particularly has been under attack by the industry as poisoning catalytic converters. So the new API specs limit it to 1000 parts per million or less, whereas before it was not uncommon to see 1200 - 1500 parts per million (ppm). What they don't tell you is that it contribution to catalytic converter poisoning is due to the boil off rate of most petroleum motor oils. The API allows up to a 15% evaporation rate before it fails to get API certification. Many petroleum oils have rate 10% or more whereas synthetics can be found with evaporation rates under 6%. Unfortunately, the average consumer has no way to know what the additive package consists of in a motor oil short of having an oil analysis done. I could go into long details about the API certification and how that does NOT guarantee your getting the best oil, but to make a short story long, lets just say that if its API certified, you are getting drastically reduced protection from zinc unless they somehow make it up with molybdenum or moly for short.
You do not even want to get me started on oil filters. Its scary the quality being sold to the consumers off the shelf. I run Amsoils dual remote by-pass oil filter on my GTP, and it adds nearly two whole quarts to the lubricating system, so I'm close to 7 quarts in my system. The main full flow filter is probably twice as long as the PF52, but both my filters are located up front behind the bumper so I have plenty of room to run whatever I want there.
Anyway, like I said, I'm not starting a war, just a friendly discussion. I would also ask that no one jump in here and make this a flame war of any type. I love to discuss and maybe debate a little, but when the back stabs and such come out, I draw the line.
So, with that said.
First:
Where did you get your information that a synthetic and petroleum motor oil are not compatible? I assumed the link you posted may reference that but it didn't work for me.
I know of no current documentation that states that the two are not compatible or wont mix. Now, if you mix a synthetic motor oil with a petroleum oil then you degrade the performance of the synthetic (weakest link in the chain sorta thing), it wont last as long or protect as well, but they will work together.
Next:
How is a 5W-30 thinner than a 10W-30? They are both 30 weight oils. However, you are correct in that a 10W-30 will not break down as easily, this being due to the fact that generally 10W-30 motor oils are more shear stable. That is to say they molecular chains do not bread down as easily.
With reference to the oils that offer the most phosphorus and zinc content, you are correct in that those are good additives to have. Zinc particularly has been under attack by the industry as poisoning catalytic converters. So the new API specs limit it to 1000 parts per million or less, whereas before it was not uncommon to see 1200 - 1500 parts per million (ppm). What they don't tell you is that it contribution to catalytic converter poisoning is due to the boil off rate of most petroleum motor oils. The API allows up to a 15% evaporation rate before it fails to get API certification. Many petroleum oils have rate 10% or more whereas synthetics can be found with evaporation rates under 6%. Unfortunately, the average consumer has no way to know what the additive package consists of in a motor oil short of having an oil analysis done. I could go into long details about the API certification and how that does NOT guarantee your getting the best oil, but to make a short story long, lets just say that if its API certified, you are getting drastically reduced protection from zinc unless they somehow make it up with molybdenum or moly for short.
You do not even want to get me started on oil filters. Its scary the quality being sold to the consumers off the shelf. I run Amsoils dual remote by-pass oil filter on my GTP, and it adds nearly two whole quarts to the lubricating system, so I'm close to 7 quarts in my system. The main full flow filter is probably twice as long as the PF52, but both my filters are located up front behind the bumper so I have plenty of room to run whatever I want there.
Anyway, like I said, I'm not starting a war, just a friendly discussion. I would also ask that no one jump in here and make this a flame war of any type. I love to discuss and maybe debate a little, but when the back stabs and such come out, I draw the line.
UR LOSN
New member
very interested in seeing pics of your oil system!
I will put a compilation of all my research together for you. I see on Amsoil's website now that you can blend them with reducing the longevity of the syn oil.....but oh well.
I can see this will be fun for both of us. a battle royaal! lol
no I'm not mad, just intrigued....
I will put a compilation of all my research together for you. I see on Amsoil's website now that you can blend them with reducing the longevity of the syn oil.....but oh well.
I can see this will be fun for both of us. a battle royaal! lol
no I'm not mad, just intrigued....
IndeedSS
SS-DD Level Member
You mention Royal Purple and there will be a battle.
Funny though Royal Purple came to my mind as a read that post as well.
SyntheticShield
New member
I'll see if I got some pics. I may not have them with me, may have to wait until Im home. I do have a few shots, I just dont know how good they are.
And thank you for not going off the deep end. So many people just go ballistic when you challenge. I normally just keep my mouth shut unless Im in person with someone so I can judge their emotion a little better and when it gets out of hand I do my best to just let it go. I like challenges and sensible debates but so often the emotion comes pouring in, which I like to see, the passion in the speaker, but too many times those emotions take over and things just go down hill.
Even if I hate you for a stand or whatever, I never want to be in a position where that passion and emotion would prevent me from shaking your hand or being willing to pull over and help you on the side of the road if you needed it and so on.
At any rate, I look forward to the discussion. So what do you say, we first tackle the mixing and switching from petroleum to synthetic? Then we can move on to which is 'thinner' 5W-30 or 10W-30? Im liking this already. I meet so few people that are willing to discuss this in a sensible and factual manner. I learn a lot from these types of discussions and Im not afraid to say Im wrong either.
So let the discussion begin. I'll subscribe to the thread so I know when a post has been made.
And thank you for not going off the deep end. So many people just go ballistic when you challenge. I normally just keep my mouth shut unless Im in person with someone so I can judge their emotion a little better and when it gets out of hand I do my best to just let it go. I like challenges and sensible debates but so often the emotion comes pouring in, which I like to see, the passion in the speaker, but too many times those emotions take over and things just go down hill.
Even if I hate you for a stand or whatever, I never want to be in a position where that passion and emotion would prevent me from shaking your hand or being willing to pull over and help you on the side of the road if you needed it and so on.
At any rate, I look forward to the discussion. So what do you say, we first tackle the mixing and switching from petroleum to synthetic? Then we can move on to which is 'thinner' 5W-30 or 10W-30? Im liking this already. I meet so few people that are willing to discuss this in a sensible and factual manner. I learn a lot from these types of discussions and Im not afraid to say Im wrong either.
So let the discussion begin. I'll subscribe to the thread so I know when a post has been made.
Reptile
Bastard
You mention Royal Purple and there will be a battle.
I hear ya....Royal Purple = overpriced IMO
GTPluv
New member
Wow, I just learned alot! I go to the jiffy lube. I finagle with them on their price.(A girl can always get a discount) I like to use (for no reason) Valvoline High Milage 10w30. But, the place I used to go to(Superlube) cost too much. $30, I' do it my damn self. So I go to the new place. They don't carry High Milage. I think they used just 10w30 cant remember now. My question is: Is there a difference in the high milage? Am I just a sucker?
SyntheticShield
New member
I personally do not think it is worth it, particularly if your car is in good shape. They charge a premium on it and the additive package doesnt do anything for me to justify the cost.
Abrasive
I say it with pictures
I ran Royal Purple 75/140 gear lube in my diffs of the Grand Cherokee. Really liked it a lot. I was getting a lot of grabbing in tight turns (Quadradrive) and it cleared it right up. Never had any experience with their oil though. Seemed ridiculously expensive for engine oil.
SyntheticShield
New member
Quite frankly, for the price, Supertech is halfway decent. Its just repackaged oil from a major blender anyway. I believe Exxon-Mobil was at some point their supplier for Supertech, though I do not know if that is still the case. I dont use it, but Ive seen some oil analysis reports on it straight out of the bottle that are decent. Its not the best oil out there, I cant say its the worse either but for what it costs its not bad.
SyntheticShield
New member
Well I wish I had a better pic, but I just dont at the moment. I thought I did, but I could only find this one.
There are actually two oil filters there. The one you can see if the bypass filter, the other is the full flow filter. What happens is about 90% of the oil flows through the full flow filter and back to the engine, but about 10% goes through the bypass filter. Because its only 10% flows through it the filtering media can be much much denser. So the engine isnt starved for oil and at a 10% rate all of the oil in the system is filtered through the bypass filter about every 5 or so minutes of driving.
It can filter down to 1 micron, which there isnt a full flow filter on the market that can touch that.
If I find any other pictures of it, I'll post them up.