• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

ABS Light Problems... Go Figure

hammerline81

New member
Someone should really do a step-by-step onto how to pin point what wheel speed sensor is out so it makes people's lives like mine a tad easier because I have no experience in wheel speed sensors.

Brought my car into the dealer because I'm not spending more money that was needed. So I just got it scanned and it came out that it was FL.

Changed out the FL wheel bearing with a Moog brand. All went well until I started the car and only to see the light was still on... hmmm.

Disconnected the battery for 10 minutes to restart and maybe help clear the codes... nothing. I have a receipt from an inspection that the previous owner had done on the car and it's the FR with some wear on the bearing. Notes say that it has some play...

Someone should please do a how to and sticky that thread so that I and everyone else doesn't have to read through 1 million complaint threads to figure out on how to diagnose this on going issue.

Going to rip all the wheels off and take the multimeter to the wheel speed sensors. But what ohms am I looking for? Read a thread that this scanner told this guy it was FR when it was actually FL... scary that a scanner doesn't always pick this issue up.

In advance to whom ever may start a "how to" thread, thank you. I hope an experienced person can help us all with that.
 


Just set your meter to read DC voltage and spin the wheel with the leads on the sensor. If you see the voltage change then the speed sensor is good in the hub. Next up would be to inspect the wiring going from the sensor to the main harness. I had this issue on my 00 GT and ended up replacing the harness from the sensor to the main harness, as it is a 2-piece setup. I know somewhere after 00 they changed it to all 1 piece, meaning that the wire loom extended off the main harness directly to the wheel hub connection. The wires like to corrode and break farther up into the insulation and may not show until you probe the wiring.

And no, the scanner doesn't always show accurately. I gave up and had mine scanned and it came back as another side. Which in all fairness it was an issue as well, but once that was fixed the ABS light was still on, which lead me to check the wiring up front on both sides.
 
I'll do this today to see what I come up with. Thanks for the info man. Starting to lose my **** since this car is a hair away from being inspection ready
 
You can check resistance of each sensor at the EBTCM connector. Find the one that isn't close to the same resistance as the others and you found the culprit. Mine ranged from like 1070-1085 ohms and my bad one was 0.

Then you check directly off the HUB so see if its good (should have about the same resistance as at the connector), if it is then you have to pull the loom back and you will probably see if its broke. Its probably broke near the LCA as it gets movement. if you cant see anything you need to check the resistance of each of the two wires going to the HUB. Then start jiggling it and wait for the resistance to spike and change and you should see a break or problem right there.

Here is a pic for reference of the pin numbers for each hub
metutype.jpg

EBTCM connector location, I had to remove my intake just to make it easier.
aja4u8u2.jpg


Sent from the Milky Way
 
Alright. Thanks man! I'll for surely try that out.

which one of you guys is going to make a "how to diagnose" thread so more people don't ask the same question I've asked a million more times lol.
 
Iv thought about it I just always forget to take pictures of things. I have to redo mine its still being stupid.

Sent from the Milky Way
 


Lol you should do it. I wonder how many times this issue has been dealt with. I Googled the issue and all that I got was... "wheel speed sensor"... well no ****... theres a few sensors... which one?
 
I just have a bunch of stuff saved in memos on my tablet and paste them when needed, like scottys coolant flush technique and newest is what I posted earlier. The hows tos are overlooked a lot tho I think.

Sent from the Milky Way
 
Yeah.. when I come across info that I think I'll need in the future I do the same. I have a lot of crap on my phone. Lol
 
Should have what the number of the pin at the start of the row or end then just count down or up the pins.

Sent from the Milky Way
 


I went over this 4 times on all... I can't believe this. I checked the connector when I was doing the front left one, looked okay.. with 100,000KM it would really surprise me that all three wires would be broken...
 
I got it scanned already. I highly doubt that your technique is wrong. I'm going to over looked these harnesses, throw some of that electrical lube. Not sure if those help connection? But it's worth the try. I just can't see wires being broken with these low kilometers. Clean car too other than when it was in a accident.
 


The scan showed LF right? Def peek at the harness, if its anything like mine the wire was broke in half laying in the loom.

Sent from the Milky Way
 
I had a 2003 with low miles do this. The harness was broken halfway between the hub and the main harness. I would check your wires if everything else looks ok. Just because it has low miles or km (my northern friend), doesn't mean that the wires are good. My car had no rust and low miles 75k when I had to replace the piece that was broken in the harness.
 
True that. I'll pull the car in right now and I'll have a peek at this. I'm going to start with the front left one. went to GM and his scanner was saying there's history on the front left. no there codes came up for the other ones so that's a bit weird if I cant get a reading from the pins other than the Rear Right.
 
Back
Top