• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

A/C Issues 1998 Grand Prix GTP

KSGTP22

New member
Looking for a bit of guidance. A/C blows warm hot air. Compressor doesn't even kick on. Took it to local mechanic as I am out of my element on A/C systems. He tried to charge it and said it wont take a charge at all. He believes the whole system is shot and recommends new compressor/ dryer/a/c collection/ condenser/ and all new lines. He believes there was water in the system and it rusted/rotted out. He said a blacklight shows Freon has leaked Everywhere on the a/c lines.

A little back story is this car has sat (In an enclosed building) for 15 years. He said we are looking at 1200ish dollars for new everything. After some sluething I can by a new dryer tube/compressor/seals/a/c collector for around 200 bucks off amazon new. If I include the condenser we are at 300ish. I am mechanical and feel comopetent to replace it all and have him charge my system for me once the work is done (for approx. 150 bucks)

My question is, should I take him at his word and order it all and replace, or start with the compressor, dryer tube and seals? What all lines would I need if I replaced the lines?

Any insight is much appreciated!
 


my dad got a bonnie back when I was in highschool and that thing only sat for a year or 2 and we needed to replace pretty much every fuel line and I believe a lot of a/c lines as well. instead of messing with the a/c we just drove without it obviously we changed the fuel lines but just put it into perspective this car did sit outside so maybe that 2 years is like 15 years inside lol. but if you would like to go at it I would just start with the tube and seals and see if that can fix the leak. the compressor may still be good. the only way you can test the compressor is if the system is full as it has a sensor that will keep it turned off to protect it. you could try to get a second opinion and see if they can pinpoint the leak. but this mechanic is not taking the wrong steps because for him to pinpoint it by replacing parts refilling it and emptying it each time odds are you will be paying way more in labor than if he just did it all at once plus some parts could go bad In the future
 
I'd hit it with a blacklight and see where it is actually leaking. Might just have a leaking condensor.

The evap. coil is buried in the dash and IIRC there is no way to get to it short of pulling the entire dash out. The orifice tube/filter is located in the line right under the brake booster (aka not easy to get to, but do-able).
 
To rule out the compressor not kicking on check the engine compartment fuse box. there is a ac clutch diode in there. When my ac wouldn't kick on it was because the diode was bad
bac4e56350f7c3439ba15a1e2e98e43c.jpg


Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
im guessin garden city is garden city, michigan. if thats the case and youre blowing warm hot air at this time of year-is the temp control knob turned down? on my 08 it'll blow warm air with ac on if that knob isnt turned down.
 
Back
Top