• The site migration is complete! Hopefully everything transferred properly from the multiple decades old software we were using before. If you notice any issues please let me know, thanks! Also, I'm still working on things like chatbox, etc so hopefully those will be working in the next week or two.

95-96 GTP Suggestions?

sc2000gtp

New member
Hi everyone, I love the design of the 95-96 Grand Prix GTP's and I was interested in buying one as a daily while I work on my project car which is a 2000 GTP. I was hoping that someone with experience could fill me in on things that I should know or beware of before purchase. I understand that the 3.4 DOHC v6 has a timing belt which needs to be replaced every 50k-60k and I'm fine with that because I'm meticulous about maintenance anyway. Anyway should I go for it or should I steer clear? Also what is a reasonable price to pay for one in very good condition with 125,000 miles for argument sake? Any and all info is appreciated, thank you.
 


I would say $2k-$3K would be a fair price for a mint condition 95-96 GTP, This is a rust free, no clear coat peeling, no issue, est. You already know about the timing belt issue and if it breaks it wipes out the valves because the 3.4 is an interference motor. Changing the Alternator and Coil packs and be a real PITA also. I also know a 3.8 conversion is a popular mod for the this year, but the 3.4 was a good running engine when it's running right.
 
The one thing you really really have to watch out for is the oil pump shaft seal, when this seal goes bad the car will dump out oil. This seal is located under the intake on the drivers side right below the back head, you are able to loosen the clamp bolt holding down the clamp on the seal, however you can not remove it without removing the cylinder head.

You basically have two options.

OPTION 1: Pull the back head off to fully remove the oil pump shaft drive. Take it to the dealer and they will give you the correct o-ring and another gasket that will go between the oil pump shaft and block. If you go this route you'll also need to remove the timing belt and have all the special tools required.

OPTION 2: Loosen the hold down clamp bolt and raise it up as high as you can. Clean up all oil and debris, making sure the area is completely clean. Make a cut in the round gasket and slide it around the base between the oil pump shaft and block. Lay a heavy bead of black RTV and snug the clamp down. After about 20-30 completely tighten down the clamp bolt. Shouldn't leak anymore and this is what many GM mechanics would do when working on these leaks at the dealership.

When replacing the timing belt you need to make sure to mark the timing on all the gears before you pull the belt off, my friend had two of these engines and neither of them had timing marks on anything. You will also need to replace a few other bits while you are in there, I cannot remember what. I do not remember where but somewhere out there on the internet is a how to for changing the timing belt and tells you everything you will need.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top